Mtnclimber Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 I was very impressed with the crack climbing at trout creek. Nice sustained crack climbing with excellent gear. How many climbers know about this area? If you do know about this area should it be kept a secret? There is a guild book for this area but this area is still word of mouth. My feeling is that areas like trout creek will be protected because of the effort to visit them (steep hike but not too bad) and the fact that the difficulty of the climbing for the average sport climber with mean that this area and areas like it will not get overcrowded like Smith, exit 38, Squamish, etc… Any thoughts----If you have climbed there---what do you think about the climbing? Should areas like trout creek get featured in the magazines, etc… Quote
olyclimber Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 My gut is telling me that posting on a public forum on the internets asking if it should be kept secret, coupled with a guide book = no more secret area. Maybe if it is kept really, really secret, then Climbing magazine will do a feature on it. I think the difficulty of the routes will keep many out. SSSHHHHH!!! Quote
Dannible Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 I don't think it's a secret, I've heard it talked about a bit and I almost never climb in Oregon. What kind of cracks are they? Basalt, similar to smith? What is the average grade? Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 a nice sideshow where you can climb new repetitious cracks when you get sick of the old repetitious cracks of the gorge at smith. oh what have we here? another crack AND another arete slapping 11d next to it? great! either way, nice troll! there's Quote
G-spotter Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 Isn't a guild book something for the Leeeeeeeroy Jenkins types? Quote
MCash Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 a nice sideshow where you can climb new repetitious cracks when you get sick of the old repetitious cracks of the gorge at smith. oh what have we here? another crack AND another arete slapping 11d next to it? great! either way, nice troll! there's Oh well, it sure as hell beats skiing. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 Oh well, it sure as hell beats skiing. oh dear Quote
RuMR Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 hey...i didn't say that...Only cuz he said it first! Quote
powderhound Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 If you didn't know trout creek was in the last photo annual of climbing. Quote
chucK Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 It was also in the most recent Climbing rag. So where is this place? A quick scan of the article produced nothing other than it's in Oregon. Anything more specific? Quote
billcoe Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 If you didn't know trout creek was in the last photo annual of climbing. Last issue of Climbing too: Phillip (CC.com Spray avatar Phillygoat) and Pat McCarthy had pretty good pics of themselves in it. Theres a recent thread on CC.com too titled: "Tired of Spray in the Climbing Forums" which touches on the beauty and supreme crackicity of the place as well. I agree with the OP, it isn't and doesn't need to be a secret anymore. As Cobra Commander says and links, there is a guidebook. Hey- I clicked that link Cobra Commander and that weren't no guidebook buck- O! Quote
billcoe Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 Here's the link to the Trout Creek guidebook Jeff Wenger put out. Good book. It just got updated recently too. Great place to climb if you like harder than hell painful cracks. I suspect even Dru, the anti tape maestro would immediatly convert to tape after less than a pitch:-) Guidebook I think it's better to share the more remote locations so as to spread the load. I can't imagine this place getting over crowded, as it takes as long to get on rock as it takes to get on rock at Smith, and Smith has so much more variety. Quote
kevbone Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 It never was a secret. All you had to do to find out about it was walk into the Outdoor store and ask Gavin all about it. He loves to talk about it. Quote
billcoe Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 Andrew Trzynka, I think he's on Goldrush. Quote
ryland_moore Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 Kev, Although I do recall Gavin pming me a few years ago telling me that he was putting up a ton of routes up there bnt that I shouldn't tell anyone about TC.....Anytway, word is def. out! Quote
rbw1966 Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 Gavin was an enthusiastic booster of the area. He took some folks from BDEL there and he told me to tell my friends about it. Quote
ivan Posted February 4, 2008 Posted February 4, 2008 bring yer hand-jammies! and if someone could set up a zip-line back to the parking lot it'd be perfect. i like to see how freaked out dogs get at the base of the routes - it's damned difficult for a biped to get aroudn there Quote
powderhound Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 anybody with any google abilities should be able to find it. Quote
powderhound Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Andrew Trzynka, I think he's on Goldrush. The one next to it. Quote
chucK Posted February 6, 2008 Posted February 6, 2008 I just carefully read the article in Climbing last night. Makes it look awful cool. They hype Trout Creek to be better than Yosemite! One beef though is that there's no specific info on how to get there....except of course a URL directing you to the guidebook for sale site. Lame. Crag article or guidebook advertisement? You decide. I did spot clues therein, however, that could probably get you there with a good map. The clues being Trout Creek Campground and Deschutes River. That'll narrow it down from the hundreds of miles and google hits for Trout Creek. I expect that soon directions will be posted on MountainProject.com. Quote
eldiente Posted February 6, 2008 Posted February 6, 2008 Trout Creek is a small place that can't handle the crowds. It was a shame that Climbing ran an article on it even though the locals specifically asked the author not to. If you need directions consult a map and bring a pair of hiking boots, that's how most of us found it originally. Please do not post directions on this site or any other. Trout Creek is clearly not a secret, but it doesn't need any more attention or step by step beta for finding the place. Half the the fun is the effort it takes to find the crag and the approach. If a bit of hard work isn't your thing, your not going to have fun out there anyway. If you really want the detailed beta, buy the book. Jeff is a good guy and responsible for much of the development at Trout Creek, giving him some beer money is the least we can do for all the hard work he has done out there. -Nate I just carefully read the article in Climbing last night. Makes it look awful cool. They hype Trout Creek to be better than Yosemite! One beef though is that there's no specific info on how to get there....except of course a URL directing you to the guidebook for sale site. Lame. Crag article or guidebook advertisement? You decide. I did spot clues therein, however, that could probably get you there with a good map. The clues being Trout Creek Campground and Deschutes River. That'll narrow it down from the hundreds of miles and google hits for Trout Creek. Soon directions will be posted on MountainProject.com. Quote
powderhound Posted February 6, 2008 Posted February 6, 2008 Trout Creek is a small place that can't handle the crowds. It was a shame that Climbing ran an article on it even though the locals specifically asked the author not to. If you need directions consult a map and bring a pair of hiking boots, that's how most of us found it originally. Please do not post directions on this site or any other. Trout Creek is clearly not a secret, but it doesn't need any more attention or step by step beta for finding the place. Half the the fun is the effort it takes to find the crag and the approach. If a bit of hard work isn't your thing, your not going to have fun out there anyway. If you really want the detailed beta, buy the book. Jeff is a good guy and responsible for much of the development at Trout Creek, giving him some beer money is the least we can do for all the hard work he has done out there. -Nate Not true about handling the crowds, I have been there on days when there is 15+ at the crag, and it was no problem. The reason for this is that the majority of the routes there are between 5.10-5.11, and they are all great five star quality. So if Gold isn't in go on down the line, and since the pitchs are demanding like indian creek or devils tower you have to take nice rest on the flat columns between laps. But is is my understanding and compliance that no directions should be posted. Find it for yourself just like everyone else and be thankful for the clues. each area has the right to be specifically unique and this is one aspect of trout that adds to the character and aurora . Quote
chucK Posted February 6, 2008 Posted February 6, 2008 Either that or just shell out the mini-mart price of a sixer of micros and stick of jerky. Quote
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