Mtnclimber

I would be honored to contribute. Dallas was a great guy and will be missed. A

Its still a bit early but those climbs can take a little planning----I was thinking late July-Sept-----I seem to have the best luck in the Rockies in August---depending on the route.

I am looking to make another attempt on Mt. Robson North face---previous attempt halfway up the face was stopped by bad weather. Awsome route. I am also interested in doing many other routes in the Canadian Rockies this summer----open to suggestions. Aaron

I am looking at going up Mt. Rainier in a day and then skiing down in May----Kinda a long push---must be in good shape---depending on the snow conditions and approach the Emmons glacier may take up to 8-9 hours +/- to hit the top---should be a fun Ski. I live in Bend would be happy to meet you at Smith or Trout creek.

I have a Border Collie who I have taken to the top of Mt. Baker, South twin sister near B-Ham----South Sister near Bend-----He has also been near the top of Elderado---early season. Other peaks have also included Mt. Pue, Sloan, as well as many peaks in the South West BC range------Having a smalled dog with lots of energy like a Border Collie is almost preferable-----at 40 pounds he is big enough to go the distance but no so big that I can't belay or help him-----I made a Dog Harness so that I could belay him over scetchy areas or when absolutely needed--haul the poor guy-----Overall the dog has loved it----now at 9 I can no longer take him so now I have another Border Collie pup to continue the tradition. Many of the mountains listed should only be done early season--to avoid conflict and restrictions---dogs are not allowed in many of the areas listed. In the backcountry you have to have a well trained dog that listens to you and will stop when you say or even better with a hand signal----I saved my dog many times by having him stop sit and come avoiding a cliff or other hazard. Please train your dog not to bark---sure fire way to get in trouble with the rangers and other hikers.

I have done Shucksan in March-----conditions are hit and miss-------really have to watch the avi risk and weather. I have been rained on after during a high snow year--had really scary avi conditions. The best winter route is poss the North face---easy access---fun climbing (ascent route is your descent route)----If you are a good skier you can also ski the North face. Mt. Baker in March can be a long slog-----turn it into a backcountry ski trip----fun skiing off the top. I live in Bend now so I am stuck skiing up the Sisters---not as exciting.

Finally recovered from a few injuries from last season and working on getting back in shape before the new season hits. Looking for trad/alpine/sport climbing partners. Would like to do more alpines climbs this summer. Alpine rock-----Also training for climbs such as Mt. Robson North face. I have Sat- Mon off---have 35 days of vacation to use this year. Climb crack mid 10s----sport mainly 10s can get into the 11s once I get back in shape. Other goals for this year------Sisters Marathon early season on skis as well as mid season speed ascents.

Looking for sport/trad partner this weekend at Smith and if its not too hot Trout creek. Have rope transport and full rack. amisiuk@hotmail.com

I can see a speed climb of Mt. Rainier in less than 5 hours car to car---a few Russian elite climbers did it in 3 hours from the car to summit-----add a pair of skis and the descent would be really fast------that much slogging without skis would be a little slow. My personal best time from car to summit via DC was 5 hours and 21 minutes with 5 episodes of puking due to the quick change in altitude.--- a time close to 5 hours for me was very condidtion dependent----I had a trail start and firm snow---any post goling would kill the time records. I have seen people in modest shape go from car to summit in 7 hours. Under 5 hours does seem a little fast.

Thank you all for your advise. I was surprised to get so many posts. I will have a website up soon with exact specifications which I will link. This has been a very fun process. Good and responsive custmer service is the goal. Good customer support is the advantage of buying from a small company rather than a large company..

I am designing the gear which is being professionally made---one of the packs is being outsourced overseas and the other will be made domestically. I am trying to do as much as I can locally. One pack will be designed very tough though a little heavier and the other will be lite weight. Are you willing to pay extra for a domestically made product? I am also looking into making custom gear. Its a tough marketplace but I feel that there is room for a local product that is made to high standards.

I am developing a line of gear starting with a backpack. I am also prototyping other types of gear as well. The goal is to produce a high quality gear at a low cost option for climbers. It will be sold by word of mouth and online to start to keep the cost lower. Much of the cost of the gear is mark up. First run will be available in about 2-3 months. What are climbers looking for in a backpack? Durability, lite weight, options. Will you buy from a grass roots local company?

Trout or Smith?

Smith or trout creek this Sat, Sun 1/18, 1/19?

My advise is to not underestimate Liberty Ridge. It has claimed many novice climbers and a few experienced climbers doing stupid things. I have done Liberty ridge twice. First time was an easy walk up---did the entire climb faster than planned---1 1/2 days. Second time nearly turned epic with 3500 feet of ice and really bad weather. Retreat off of the ridge in bad conditions can be tough and at times you are better off summiting and going down another route---As long as you plan ahead and know your limits you should be fine---helps to bring the right gear. Have fun---its one of the best in WA---I have always been partial to the Canadian rockies for this type of climbing.

Best climbing near Eugene is at Smith and Trout creek--especially during the off season. I would be happy to meet you at Smith. PM me. Aaron

I live in Bend and would be happy to meet you at Smith. If you are into crack climbing spending a day at trout creek is also a good option. PM me.

Both rock clmbing and mountaineering can both be equally risky. Main difference I have found is that in rock climbing you are better able to choose your level of risk. In mountaineering many of the risks are not visable ie.. rock fall or ice fall from 1500 feet above. The other main difference is that inexperienced climbers can get in over their head much easier in the mountains. Have you ever seen a 5.5 climbing trying a 5.11 runout pitch. I have seen an equally inexperieced on a grade 4 in the Canadian Rockies. The real tipping point for me is the commitment factor. If you fall and break your ankle at Smith, Index, or squamish help is a few minutes away. In the mountains a broken ankle is a major epic.

I have solo'd Mt. Rainier twice, both times were in early May. I have done two winter climbs in January---not sure if I would do it solo. Mt. Rainier in Winter is a toally different climb than in the summer---weather can be unpredictable. If you decide climb it in the winter, prepare for a potential epic and pack accordingly---10 days of supplies in case encountering bad weather (worst case). I have been fined for soloing----I think it was $150.

I have done the route four times now. Best way to approach the north face is to drop straight down from chair eight and up the hillside to the north of the ski area that leads to the base of the route. On the crest of the ridge there are many animal paths and you can move quickly. Avoid going up the drainage unless you like lots of bush whacking---can be very dangerous in the winter due to extreme avalanche danger---a few people have already died over the years in this area. Once on the route its best to to the east or climbers left around the first overhanging glacier, them sharp west or climbers right between the glaciers. Becareful as you exit up a ramp that is either easy rock climbing or snow- there is at times steady rock fall here from about 1500 feet above----I figured and was correct that if you run accrossed this area at the same time the rock fall starts you can make it safely---just move fast. The rest of the face is very straight forward and fun. Post holing in early season and hard snow and ice during the fall. This route can be done year round. If you dicide to not down climb the route---then in late season you may have a few difficult cravasse crossing, climbing in and out of them---fun. Findig your way down Fischer chimnies can also be a challenge if you have not been there. Good luck---PM me if you have any questions.

I have done Liberty ridge twice---by far the best and most consistant conditions but not the best weather was in May. I have also done Libert ridge in January---exepct a possible epic with this winter climb.

I have done Liberty ridge twice---by far the best and most consistant conditions but not the best weather was in May. I have also done Libert ridge in January---exepct a possible epic with this winter climb.

My father dragged me up Mt. Rainier at the age of eight in two days. 11 is probably a bit young for the trip. Looking back going up Mt. Rainier at age 8 and Mt. Baker at age 6 coild be considered child abuse. Why do you want to take an 11 year old up to the top of Mt. Rainier---Is it for their enjoyment or yours. Plus if anything happens you will be putting any partners at risk---If anything happens to your daugher will you be able to live with yourself. There are so many very kid friendly places to go----Make it fun for her----success breeds success---making your daughter hate the outdoors by pushing her beyond her limits is probably not a good idea.

I have solo'd Mt. Rainier several times followed by a ski decent. The best time to do this is in May and early June. Soling Mt. Rainier from late June on is really not a very good idea. There are just too many objective hazards and open cravases. The only reason why I do the volcanoes anymore is to ski down them. Good solos this time of year include Mt. Adams, Ruth Mountain, you can also check out some of the snow sloggs in SW BC. There are just so many better targets this time of year---check out some fun scrambles--as long as you feel comfortable soling 4th and easy 5th you will have many options.

I was very impressed with the crack climbing at trout creek. Nice sustained crack climbing with excellent gear. How many climbers know about this area? If you do know about this area should it be kept a secret? There is a guild book for this area but this area is still word of mouth. My feeling is that areas like trout creek will be protected because of the effort to visit them (steep hike but not too bad) and the fact that the difficulty of the climbing for the average sport climber with mean that this area and areas like it will not get overcrowded like Smith, exit 38, Squamish, etc… Any thoughts----If you have climbed there---what do you think about the climbing? Should areas like trout creek get featured in the magazines, etc…