another bolting ethics question/topic

[corvallisclimb]

Do the bolts abstruct the holds at the top? Are they realy doing anyone any harm? Not including ego! 15 feet is far enough to fall and get hurt. Starting a war over a piece of rock is counter productive. Maybe trying to find the person and disscusing it might be the best approch. They did not acctually retro a route, since the only way to climb the route is to solo it. No one owns the rock. It is a hard call.

 

Natural anchors are abundent... trees and such, these people could have been creative with 30ft of webbing instead they broke out the drill. Oh and the 15ft problem, is seriously like 5.8!!!

[JosephH]

So Bill, who been climbing out at the Butte for decades that might take such offense at achors out there. Seems pretty damn strange to me.

[billcoe]

No idea. Seems like it's been about 5 years now. I don't know who's putting them in either. I saw a poster named Motomajik on the other thread say his friends put in a couple of bolts which lasted 2 days, but I don't think I know him or his friends.

 

I still meet strangers out there who say they've been climbing there for like 15 years and I've never even layed eyes on them. The place is stange that way.

 

Guess I need to get out more.

 

What do you say to Corvallis BTW?

[111]

Being familiar with the route you schpeek of, CHOP IT! it is an easy highball that has no need for a bolt. there is enough moss piled at the bottom to pad any fall from the top anyway. Save the hanger for a real route!

[111]

Heh, maybe it is the whiny OSU ICC beyoches bolting. I would take great pleasure chopping something they drilled.

[kix]

15 feet is a highball these days?

[DirtyHarry]

And the kids are putting 5 feet of v-pads at the base and calling it a highball or solo.

[111]

15 feet is a highball these days?

 

it slabs out for the last 10-15 feet. the (5.8)crux is at about 15 ft

[corvallisclimb]

wait acctually its 10 ft, thats not even the one your thinking of ian. fuck em they got to chop, was wet though so no epoxy in the holes yet. it was obvious they where hand drilled by noobs, they craterd the shit out of the holes. and after all whod place a rawl 5p and a fixe wedge for an anchor?

[kevbone]

Remember the golden rule: Treat people how you would want them to treat you! Would you want someone to chop your bolts that you painstakenly placed?

[Off_White]

Does it give you wood to work yourself into such a state of high ethical dudgeon?

[slaphappy]

and after all whod place a rawl 5p and a fixe wedge for an anchor?

 

Am I missing something? What's wrong with that? We frequently mix up 1/2", 3/8", 5- piece, wedge, buttonheads, pins, zinc plated, stainless, etc. I see no problem with it as long as it's solid. It certainly doesn't guarantee they didn't know what they were doing.

[mattp]

It certainly doesn't guarantee they didn't know what they were doing.

 

Nor does the fact that they cratered a hole.

[kix]

the 5.8 crux?

 

this was never a boulder problem to begin with.

 

let the kids top rope it.

[underworld]

i thought the problem is that it now has bolts

[markd]

i have no good answer about chopping the bolts. my first thought would be to leave them, and find out who's bolting the boulder problems.

 

but, bolts lead to more bolts! BUT, chopping leads to more chopping; it's a double edged sword.

 

when did 15ft become high ball? who bolts this stuff?

[underworld]

i dunno, but i've seen a lot of clipsticks shorter than 15ft. [and used em too]

[markd]

i dunno, but i've seen a lot of clipsticks shorter than 15ft. [and used em too]

 

this is true, but, what does it have to do with adding bolts to the top of 15ft, 5.8 boulder problems?

[kix]

5.8 boulder problems

 

oxymoron

[RuMR]

come on man, those are S I C K!

[underworld]

i dunno, but i've seen a lot of clipsticks shorter than 15ft. [and used em too]

 

this is true, but, what does it have to do with adding bolts to the top of 15ft, 5.8 boulder problems?

 

well, people are talking crap about 15ft not being a highball - ie - nothing to worry about falling from. bolts atop that 15ft is like protecting the first moves of a sport route...as far as safety goes.

[RuMR]

not true...a bolt at 15 ft on a sport route protects climbing up to 20-23 feet or so depending on the skill of the belayer...

[underworld]

but doesn't protect the 1st 15 ft... that's the point. if you're only worried about feet 15 thru 20 then there wouldn't be clipsticks.

[RuMR]

clipsticks are weak, in general...

[underworld]

so is bouldering...