RuMR Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 whatever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 This is what I love about this site, the drama is better than any tv show!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kix Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 so is bouldering... Â Â weak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cappellini Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 these are boulders with top rope anchors....why would you chop them? i'm sure you and your friends use stacks of humping pads for landings...this is no different than top roping...if the boulders do not have natural or gear anchors available on top than the bolts seem quite justified...i also would not claim to be responsible for fa's on boulders, i mean really...you have no idea who may have climbed those boulders before you, they make great perches for launching knapped projectiles into big game...get my drift...besides, in the northwest dirt comes back quite quickly..where i live they have written a guide book with names, fa's, etc about countless boulders that i had climbed on previous to their claims...i as they, was surely not the first, nevertheless like you they claim fa's and other such nonsense...like someone else said "don't use them"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 Does it give you wood to work yourself into such a state of high ethical dudgeon? Â No, it doesnt not why do you think it does? The fact is this is mainly a bouldering area, there is one "roped" climb wich i put up using gear and 1 bolt. But for me, this was the first time something i fa'd or what ever you want to call it had bolts added to it. Â and after all whod place a rawl 5p and a fixe wedge for an anchor? Â Am I missing something? What's wrong with that? We frequently mix up 1/2", 3/8", 5- piece, wedge, buttonheads, pins, zinc plated, stainless, etc. I see no problem with it as long as it's solid. It certainly doesn't guarantee they didn't know what they were doing. Â Okay sure anything goes for wall anchors and stuff, one fatty and some button heads and or machine heads. But this is a top rope anchor drilled from a sitting on your ass stance. Why not just do it once, do it right? I guess in the long run it comes down to personal opinion, but i would never place 2 mismatched bolts for a top rope anchor. mabey im a perfectionist, or want things to match. Â Â It certainly doesn't guarantee they didn't know what they were doing. Â Nor does the fact that they cratered a hole. Â Okay I guess you might have to see the holes and bolt placement, ya sure everyone craters a hole a little bit from time to time. But if I was drilling from a sitting on my ass stance i would try as hard as possible to make a perfect hole. one of the holes i found to be craterd so bad i probably wouldnt have put a bolt in it. they beat that wedge down in there so hard it mushroomed the tip, the rawl was barley tightend, obvious hammer marks all over around the bolts. So I seriously hope it wasnt someone with some bolting experince, because I would hate to get on one of their routes. Â Â so mabey i didnt make my self clear enough at the begining, but i get the feeling everyone thinks im wrong here. anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 oh cappelini- IM SURE you know that i dont own a bouldering pad, i have one friend who i go there with that owns a single small one, and i could probably count the number of times on one hand ive botherd to use it(i consider my self and aid climber and say how i "hate" bouldering)... i never boulder(because im weak as shit) and i think pads are aid. the reason we belive we made some of the fas, are the same reasons why you would belive you climbed an roped fa. we had to cut the trails, spend hours and hours of cleaning, this is probably the mossiest place ive ever climbed. and it was only revealed recently due to logging. all the boulder have natural andchors and walk offs. Â i just get the feeling from everyone that you think im a fucking moron. ive thought about all of this shit before, i know when and when not to claim and FA etc etc. i think every one is aussming way to much about me and this place i speak of. i am younger than most every one on this site, and mabey it shows but i like to try and stick to old school ethics, pads and bolts-in the wrong places to me are wrong. i recently just caved into using a power drill. find out more facts, before you try and make me look wrong and stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kix Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 ..i also would not claim to be responsible for fa's on boulders, i mean really...you have no idea who may have climbed those boulders before you, they make great perches for launching knapped projectiles into big game...get my drift... Â I'm guessing they went the easiest way up the easy part of the bolder as opposed to the easiest way up the hardest part. sure they may have gone up some 5.8 jugs, but I'm guessing they did not go the inverted v4 route from the sit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 ..i also would not claim to be responsible for fa's on boulders, i mean really...you have no idea who may have climbed those boulders before you, they make great perches for launching knapped projectiles into big game...get my drift... Â I'm guessing they went the easiest way up the easy part of the bolder as opposed to the easiest way up the hardest part. sure they may have gone up some 5.8 jugs, but I'm guessing they did not go the inverted v4 route from the sit. Â yeah seriously, i cant imagine a hunter busting out v whatever the hell any of that means with his gun slung over his shoulder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 I think he was referring to pre euro influenced native americans climbing V4. I bet they could climb at least V10 barefoot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 yeah discredit all fas and give them to the natives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whidbey Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 barefoot does so suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 But at least it's not aid, like you...ahem, US shoe-wearing cheaters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 oh cappelini- IM SURE you know that i dont own a bouldering pad, i have one friend who i go there with that owns a single small one, and i could probably count the number of times on one hand ive botherd to use it(i consider my self and aid climber and say how i "hate" bouldering)... i never boulder(because im weak as shit) and i think pads are aid. the reason we belive we made some of the fas, are the same reasons why you would belive you climbed an roped fa. we had to cut the trails, spend hours and hours of cleaning, this is probably the mossiest place ive ever climbed. and it was only revealed recently due to logging. all the boulder have natural andchors and walk offs. Â i just get the feeling from everyone that you think im a fucking moron. ive thought about all of this shit before, i know when and when not to claim and FA etc etc. i think every one is aussming way to much about me and this place i speak of. i am younger than most every one on this site, and mabey it shows but i like to try and stick to old school ethics, pads and bolts-in the wrong places to me are wrong. i recently just caved into using a power drill. find out more facts, before you try and make me look wrong and stupid. Â Don't let the internet tough-guys get you down, Kid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kix Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 geez, I've been backing him all the way. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â well at least until the 5.8 part was disclosed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 these are boulders with top rope anchors....why would you chop them? Â F_ck it. I'm going to Leavenworth to chop Bruce's Boulder. It's like 12 feet of 5.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cappellini Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 don't take it personal...this site is full of shit therefore we are....they're boulders..fairly insignificant summits..so woopy if there's bolts on top...for a 6 yr old those boulders are huge, let em top rope..it s not like someone grid bolted your bolder...around here people are downbolting faces that have already been climbed with ample traditional protection..bolts next to gear...i see it regularly..disgrace..if the place feels special to you and the bolts offend you...remove them..i would if i felt that way about your boulder field and wanted to waste my time roremoving bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Bolts and boulder problems cannot coexist. Â And whoever said "clipstick" nice try but it's called a CHEATER STICK. Calling it a "clipstick" is like calling your period "A visit from Auntie". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 (edited) Bolts and boulder problems cannot coexist. And whoever said "clipstick" nice try but it's called a CHEATER STICK. Calling it a "clipstick" is like calling your period "A visit from Auntie".  I know Dru is baiting but I can't take it!!!! Muusstt Post...  Cheater Stick = stick used to clip fix aid gear out of reach thus "skipping" the hard aid.  Clip Stick = stick used to clip rope to first bolt where it's 1) needed because of bad landing 2) deemed to high/scary for climber*  * = debate can rage on this of course one man's death fall is another's runnout. There are places where the FA MEANT the bolt to be clipped though...  flame on  edit to add clips sticks are fine with me in sport areas but I'll laugh at you if you show up at the apron with a 20 foot pole Edited May 25, 2006 by matt_m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Getting a toprope through the opening moves = cheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Getting a toprope through the opening moves = cheating. Â Who gives a shit. I'm not going to risk breaking my feet/legs to be considered "not a cheater" by Dru. Â Fuck that. Â I used to take a Stick-clip/clip-stick to Smith when I used to climb there a lot. Lots of hard starts there with risk of groundfall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Getting a toprope through the opening moves = cheating. Â Who gives a shit. I'm not going to risk breaking my feet/legs to be considered "not a cheater" by Dru. Â Fuck that. Â I used to take a Stick-clip/clip-stick to Smith when I used to climb there a lot. Lots of hard starts there with risk of groundfall. Climbing to enjoy yourself doesn't need to be defended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Hey if you "don't want to take a risk" why don't you stick to flower arranging and lawn bowling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Hey if you "don't want to take a risk" why don't you stick to flower arranging and lawn bowling. Â I prefer My Little Ponies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Hey if you "don't want to take a risk" why don't you stick to flower arranging and lawn bowling. That's like saying you won't screw b/c it's no fun w/o a condom. Let go--let other people enjoy climbing the way they want to. What difference does it make to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 wearing a seatbelt just takes all the fun out of driving for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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