dbconlin Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Climb: Dragontail-Triple Couloirs Date of Climb: 4/23/2006 Trip Report: Scott Gullberg (scottgg) and I had our eyes set on TC this past weekend. I headed up to Colchuck lake on Saturday under blue skies and warm temps. Unfortunately this meant the snow had softened and I ended up postholing in a few places (I did not bring snowshoes). It also had me worried about the warm trend and its implication for avy danger and snow/ice conditions on the route. The NWAC gave a low rating overnight and early morning and moderate danger late morning and afternoon, especially on sun-exposed and wind-sheltered slopes. I figured that avy danger on TC wouldn't be too bad, as we would be on it early and it doesn't receive any sun. However, I was still concerned about the high freezing level, predicted by NWAC to be 7000 - 8000 feet overnight...that would mean very warm temps at 5400 feet at the lake. I got to the lake around 3 pm and hung out, enjoying the view: There was very little avy activity in the surrounding hills that afternoon, an encouraging sign. Some sh!t was falling off of the slopes below cholchuck balanced rock, which recieves full sun all day, but that is about it. I went to bed early as I had nothing much to do and had run out of fuel melting all my drinking water for that night and the next day and cooking my dinner, so I couldn't boil any water for cocoa. shucks! I had thought there would be liquid water in the outlet but everything I saw was frozen solid. My alarm went off at 4 am. I looked at my thermometer and it read 25 deg F, so I figured that was the overnight low at the lake (5400 ft asl). Very encouraging! The route would be frozen and I was optimistic about the conditions we would encounter. All the snow around my bivy site was very firm and crusty too. At 4:45 I saw a headlamp coming from the trail and it was Scott, who was doing the trip "in a day". SCOTTS STORY: Scott had arrived at the trailhead about 10 pm took a quick nap and started hiking at 12:30 am, he got to the lake in less than 4 hrs (quick time, he had good firm snow, no postholing!), then spent some time looking for my bivy site. After walking halfway around the lake and back, he found me. We geared up and left camp at 5:30 am, walked across the frozen lake and up the slopes below the start of the route. AFter donning our crampons etc at the base, we started up the first couloir at 6:30. Conditions were perfect, very firm, we were able to frontpoint through most of it with our tools in dagger position. In some sections the snow was a little softer and we were kicking steps quite easily. 45 mins later we reached the crux ice runnels. Scott led the first pitch traversing left across a slab partially covered in thin ice and then ascending to the base of a steep runnel in 60 m. I then led the crux ice runnel, which was about 20 m of steps interspersed with steep thin ice, exited out onto the second couloir on the bottom left, climbed up and to the right and set up a rock belay in 60 m. Me leading the crux runnel: I belayed scott up and we continued simul-climbing above this with scott leading. The runnels ended up being two full-length pitches and took us about an hour. The second couloir went quickly and scott continued through the rock band into the third couloir. I took over leading and by the time we reached the top we were both tired. From the col, scott led across a snow slope to a ridge, where we unroped and made the final few meters to the summit about 11:30 am, 5 hours after starting the route (6 hours from my bivy site across the lake). Me following in the second couloir: The descent was uneventful (good i guess). We replenished our water supply with what we had left at the bivy site, had a bite to eat, packed up, and headed out. WE still had 8.5 miles to hike, snow conditions were getting noticeably softer (we ended up breaking through deep more than a few times), and Scott had been going full on since 12:30 am!!! Luckily Scott had stashed a large can of RockStar 21 (like redbull & vodka, yes it has alcohol in it) at the trailhead, which sustained us the final 4 mi down to the gate at Icicle Creek. We finished at 5:30 pm, a 17 hr car-to-car time for Scott!!! Gear Notes: 1 stubby ice screw couple of cams small nuts + tricams 1-2 pickets Approach Notes: Firm conditions overnight and morning, soft midday. Gated at Icicle Creek, no snow for first 1.5 - 2 miles. Bridge crossings very sketchy!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted April 26, 2006 Author Share Posted April 26, 2006 Post deleted by dbconlin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Nice work. Try getting rid of the "?v=0" at the end of the name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 take off the ?=vo from the end of the image url so its .jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 i fixed it for you bro...but ya, what those guys say...if posting a picture the URL to the photo needs to end with ".jpg" when linking to jpegs. nice TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted April 26, 2006 Author Share Posted April 26, 2006 We were going to ski it but....we didn't bring skis....and were not that badass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmarch Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Yeah, we were going to ski it too...um, not really! We did the walk-up Dragontail via Aasgard sunday(party of 3). I think Scott(?) came by our campsite in the morning looking for Dave. The bridge over mountaineer creek was sketchy for sure sunday afternoon!! We were able dig down and get water out of the lake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Great report fellas, and nice photos! That route looks like a lot of fun when the conditions are in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Nice work! Great pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still_climbin Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Looks like you hit it perfect. Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Looks beyootiful. Nice job! Now I *really* wish I'd gone in there on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir_vent Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Awesome job! We were watching you guys enter TC as we made our way up to the NEBC. So the ice was thick enough that you didnt have dry tool 5.8? Sounds like TC was a good choice, We had to deal with a nasty cornice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 What a classically beautiful route! Great timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Nice work on TC! What were conditions like on the NEBC??? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Nice job, looks like you had much better conditions than we did on the Tooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 How big a herd will be heading up TC this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I don't think the ice looks fat enough, especially in comparision to a couple year ago, to warrent a huge cc.com fiesta... it might be gone with these high temps anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Mountainmatt, whatcha mean about the Tooth? Tons of wet, slushy snow, or what? Which route did you climb? Cheers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Post deleted by scottgg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Note: The gate is now open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 What a fun route! I was suprised with the number of people climbing in the Colchuck basin that weekend, especially considering the approach is still "as long as a hundred space ships"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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