Mt. Triumph

[Roscoe_M]

Greetings to all that make up the wealth of knowledge and experience that is Cascade Climbers! I'm planning an attack on the north face-central rib of Triumph. I have the Beckey book, but I can't seem to find any other beta on the route or recent info on the condition of the glacier below the north face. I assume approaching via the notch at the base of the NE ridge is the way to go, but the Triumph Pass aproach has also been mentioned. Descent opinions would also be appriciated. Down the NE ridge or SE sholder? Any tid-bits would help, thanks!

Edited March 9, 2006 by Roscoe_M

[ivan]

when?

[Roscoe_M]

I'm thinking May or June

[G-spotter]

i dont think you need to worry too much about the glacier in may or june...

[rat]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post376313

[Roscoe_M]

90 min decent sounds pretty f'n sweet

[TeleRoss]

descent down the NE Ridge is an easy mix of downclimbing and rapping.

[goatboy]

The NE Ridge route ends via some steep, heather-covered ledges (described as slippery when wet!) which provide some unsavory downclimbing on the descent....what I didn't know is you can avoid all that by walking to the prominent point overlooking the NE ridge (from the summit area) and finding a rap station there which drops you back onto the notch (just above the "crux" pitch). This would save time and needless vegetable-belaying on the heather section....

[Alpinfox]

Only tangentially related, but here is some discussion of the N Rib of Triumph in winter.

 

LINK

 

 

A random mention of the route I found in a long, otherwise unrelated thread:

 

Off_White said: I talked to three guys who did N Face on Triumph a couple years ago at the bivy site on the NE Ridge. They didn't seem that impressed with it, but had a good time. I think they did the original line, not the Burdo variation. Seemed at odds with the oooh-wow impression I'd always held of that side of the peak, maybe they were just jocular but reticent hardmen.

 

Michael_Layton said: I went to go do this line last year by taking the notch down from the NE ridge...not the way to go on a low snow year! Take triumph pass. Anyway, i was able to scope the route and it look...er, uh, well...like Off White said, not too impressive...actually kinda dumb. I x'ed it off my tick list as a SUMMER route (hint hint).

 

[John_Scurlock]

From March 1st:

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/57035175 and

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/57035177

[Dechristo]

phew... nice photos.

[John_Scurlock]

phew... nice photos.

 

Ya Betcha, thanks. Somethin' tells me it might even be snowier yet up there today... considering the absolutely wretched weather we've had here over the last 48 hr...

[DirtyHarry]

That north face sure looks like a peach

[Off_White]

As a winter climb it looks quite spectacular.

 

The guys I encountered slept at the awesome bivy a pitch and a half up the NE Ridge, rapped down to the approach that morning. NE Ridge descent then allows you to pick up your camp on the way down. Looked like a smart plan.

[Roscoe_M]

After what Off White and Michlae Layton said about the summer climbing of this route it has me thinking about a winter ascent. It certainly looks exciting! I wonder if the first week of April would be too late for good winter conditions up there. I just happen to have that week off from work. Maybe I'll ski up there this weekend and check it out. Descending the NE ridge might prove problematic with a bunch of snow on it, although it might make it an easy downclimb?

[G-spotter]

winter ends on march 20 this year.

[Alpinfox]

Descending the NE ridge might prove problematic with a bunch of snow on it, although it might make it an easy downclimb?

 

[JoshK]

John, your pictures are a constant source of motivation to get out in the hills for me.

 

Oh, and your site is also the very first thing I show to Coloradans who think that they actually have real mountains.

[John_Scurlock]

Hey man, thanks for that. You and everyone else who rumbles around in this forum have been very kind to me & I won't be forgetting it any time soon. We are damn lucky to have such a great range of mts in our backyard, aren't we?

[mattp]

Trogdor put it a little differently the other day. Your pictures are like crack cocaine for climbers. Browsing your gallery becomes every bit as addicting, and the temptation you stimulate is just as dangerous!

 

I'm sorry I missed the opportunity to shake your hand the other night.

[John Frieh]

Oh, and your site is also the very first thing I show to Coloradans who think that they actually have real mountains.

 

Please stop. We don't need any more CO kids around here. Let them think all the real mountains are in CO.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Hey man, thanks for that. You and everyone else who rumbles around in this forum have been very kind to me & I won't be forgetting it any time soon. We are damn lucky to have such a great range of mts in our backyard, aren't we?

 

Seriously, I spent about a week going through every picture on your site and marked my beckey guide of the pages of everything that looked good in the photos. Then I learned you uploaded more photos since the beginning of the month, please stop John you are making me break out in a cold sweat at work and everyone is wondering why my shirts get so soaked during the day.

[larrythellama]

Please stop. We don't need any more CO kids around here. Let them think all the real mountains are in CO.

 

how do we get you to leave?

[John Frieh]

Pick up the slack and start putting up your own hard routes.

[larrythellama]

you must have come along way since i saw you shaking on sky ridge.