Rating New Climbs

[texplorer]

Recently I have began to delve into the idea of putting up more routes and have a question about how to rate these climbs. So when you put up a new route do you instantly give it the rating you think it deserves, give people an estimate of what you think it is (5.10+ to 5.11-), or let them totally decide assuming it isn't dangerous for that climber. I usually give the estimate of what its rated and then get their opinion as it rates to the crag in general. I was just curious as to what the "proper" etiquette was for this matter being there is so much "rating inflation" hype going on these days.

[RuMR]

Let bob climb it so he can rate it...that way we won't get a diatribe on the internet about how sally everyone is!!!!

 

[Szyjakowski]

rate route on how it would be to onsite the climb...

and give it a ++ if it has a little dirt involved.

[Dru]

just rate it 5.8 no matter what grade it is.

[Szyjakowski]

4th class beyotch

[jkrueger]

I think you're on the right track -- give it a slash rating and then let some opinions filter in. In talking to a few other route setters, this seems to be the standard practice. It might get easier as it gets cleaned up, or it might get harder . . .

[Peter_Puget]

I say rate them what you they are rated!

[ScottP]

I say rate them what you they are rated!

Yeah, what he said.

[Bug]

I say rate them what you they are rated!

Yeah, what he said.

Rated rate are they you say them what I!

Said he, what yeah.

Ditto. The opinions will follow. The muck will be raked. Ignore it and put up another.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

"The important thing to consider, when establishing a new route, is that the bolts are placed close together."

 

- 'AmazingCo, Inc. Rock Climbing Information Omnibus' Vol. 17, p. 192 (c 2001, AmazingCo Publishing, Biloxi, MS)

[EWolfe]

I would rather sandbag a bit than have my climbs downgraded

 

People will often find an easier way than you did, so err on the cautious side.

 

Split grades work well for the unsure, especially if there is height dependency.

 

Cleaning the cruxes REALLY WELL helps maintain grade consistency

 

My $.02

 

E

[Drederek]

It's easier for me to rate stuff near my limit so I'd try to find "test subjects" climbing at or near your routes level.

[catbirdseat]

It's easier for me to rate stuff near my limit so I'd try to find "test subjects" climbing at or near your routes level.

The most objective ratings will come from climbers doing your route at close to their limit.

[texplorer]

Thanks for the input everyone. DFA, my routes up to this point don't need bolts except for an occasional anchor.

 

I guess I'll make Dru and CrzyPlshBob happy and make it a 5.8

[RuMR]

good!! I just can't stand to hear bob whine anymore!!

[chris]

You could go the Sharma route and refuse to grade. Some might call this a sandbag, but perhaps a grade should be established in consensus from the first, second, and third ascent parties.

There been some wicked V and VI activity in Valley in the past few years where the FA will only tell you where the route starts, no topo, precise route description, or rating. Makes following ascents as spicy as the first (except you know that the route MUST go somewhere).

[fern]

 

and is this supposed to be a less egotistical and chestbeating way to "rate" your climbs?

[billcoe]

Hi Carsten: I always felt (that for me) ya should just tell people, "I think it's about......(insert grade here)" and be as close as real as possible.

 

The other real pertainant info I like to both desiminate and recieve is this: if the pro really sucks, tell the dweebs like myself who are not kicking ass at your level so we don't jump on it and die!

 

Now....if I can sneak this question in...where ya climbing these days for new routes?

[lummox]

ratings are for those in need of external validation. i mean: they are for fags.

[Eerie]

if it's easy, rate it 5.8 or below. if it's hard, rate it 5.9+. that should take care of PolishBob's rating rants.

[erd]

Godzilla... 5a HVS E1

[willstrickland]

You chuffer, "E" grades as in "E1" are subdivisions of "extremely severe" which is the adjectival grade above HVS (hard very severe) so it's either HVS or E1, but not both.

[ash]

rating are for sissys, just don't rate it!

[Stemalot]

rate it: hard, pretty hard, and pretty damn hard

don't rate anything that's not hard

[sexual_chocolate]

Use a color-coding system to simplify this whole mess. You know, yellows and mauves and ochres.

 

If this doesn't work, try music.