TimL Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 I need some opinions on ropes. I'm looking at buying a 9.4 for an all around rope. Aid, traditional, sport, alpine, etc. I know most people would go with a thicker rope, but I wanted to see if anyone has used ropes in the 9.4-9.6 range and see how quick do they wear out? Thanks for any and all beta. Quote
DPS Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 (edited) Hi Tim, I had a 9.4 BD Hotline that I bought specifically for alpine climbing. It did not last very long as the sheath was very thin. Jugging on it sucked because it stretched so much. Other than those two issues, it was a fine rope. I use a piece of it to tie loads down on my truck now. I use a 9.7 Maxim for all around use now. Heavier, but in my opinion worth the extra weight. Plus it was cheaper. Edited March 24, 2004 by danielpatricksmith Quote
Rodchester Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 Hmmm...I have a 9.8 x 60 meter dry that I generally use for alpine stuff. It has worn average so far. I haven't used it for AID, but have for some sport and crag trad. I think the quality of the rope is going to have more to do with the wear than the diameter. Quote
dberdinka Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 I had a 9.6 Sterling, I think it might have been a Marathon. It was amazingly durable yet had a really nice hand. I did a lot of jugging on it in the desert and it held up really well. The best rope I ever had, I would buy another if they still made them. Check out Gearexpress.com I think they currently have 9.5mm x 60M Marathons on sale. Quote
RuMR Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 Beal Stinger is the shiznet... 9.4 x 80 will take care of the durability issues...just keep whittling it...you have 20 m worth of rope to chop before the ropes' too short... Quote
Fromage Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 Beal Stinger is the shiznet... 9.4 x 80 will take care of the durability issues...just keep whittling it...you have 20 m worth of rope to chop before the ropes' too short... For the Stinger... 57g/m * 80m = 4.56kg = 10 pounds = 10 pounds of rope in one climber's pack... Beal Ice Line 8.1mm, PAIR of 60m doubles... 42g/m * 120m = 5kg = 11.1 pounds = 5.55 pounds of rope in one climber's pack Further compelling evidence to stick with the doubles. Plus you can do 60m raps and benefit from the other advantages of doubles. A one-pound weight savings does not justify climbing on a single rope in the mountains. Not for me, at any rate. Plus, if you spend the additional money up front to buy 3 ropes (a pair of doubles and a single) then your long term costs will decrease because each rope will last longer. And who wants to go cragging on an 80m rope? Quote
erik Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 i had a bd/beal 9.4 and found it to be a piece of shit...durability was the key issue. i think that durability is a common issue with bd/beal ropes. tho i have a 9.8 sterling now and 10 mammut that i both like.... Quote
Lambone Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 I had a 9.6 Sterling, I think it might have been a Marathon. It was amazingly durable yet had a really nice hand. I did a lot of jugging on it in the desert and it held up really well. The best rope I ever had, I would buy another if they still made them. Check out Gearexpress.com I think they currently have 9.5mm x 60M Marathons on sale. I'm with dberdinka on this one. If you want a thin and durable rope, check out the 9.5 Marathon. It's a bit heavier then a standard 9.5 though... Quote
TimL Posted March 24, 2004 Author Posted March 24, 2004 Thanks Dan. Was that the same rope we used in the Bugs? I found a deal here in Toronto for a Beal 9.4 70m rope for $139 Canadian. Its a good deal but if the rope is shit, then I don't see a reason to buy it. Quote
RuMR Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 Beal Stinger is the shiznet... 9.4 x 80 will take care of the durability issues...just keep whittling it...you have 20 m worth of rope to chop before the ropes' too short... For the Stinger... 57g/m * 80m = 4.56kg = 10 pounds = 10 pounds of rope in one climber's pack... Beal Ice Line 8.1mm, PAIR of 60m doubles... 42g/m * 120m = 5kg = 11.1 pounds = 5.55 pounds of rope in one climber's pack Further compelling evidence to stick with the doubles. Plus you can do 60m raps and benefit from the other advantages of doubles. A one-pound weight savings does not justify climbing on a single rope in the mountains. Not for me, at any rate. Plus, if you spend the additional money up front to buy 3 ropes (a pair of doubles and a single) then your long term costs will decrease because each rope will last longer. And who wants to go cragging on an 80m rope? HEY CHEESEHEAD...he specifically said 9.4 ALL AROUND ROPE...not doubles... Quote
charlesclaassen Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 I've been considering this same question for some time. Because most of my climbs are moderate alpine, I opt for the longer 70m for fewer raps, but not the 80m for aded weight. There must be advantages for doubles, but I can't toprope my 5-year-old daughter on 8.1, and I'm poor so I can't have six kinds of rope laying around for three different kinds of climbing. 9.7x70m= (for me anyway) Quote
kurthicks Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 There must be advantages for doubles, but I can't toprope my 5-year-old daughter on 8.1 why not? it's plenty strong enough. that is, unless she's over 55kg and taking factor 2 falls...on top rope. i do buy the arguement of having a ton of ropes lying around though... Quote
specialed Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 I need some opinions on ropes. I'm looking at buying a 9.4 for an all around rope. Aid, traditional, sport, alpine, etc. I know most people would go with a thicker rope, but I wanted to see if anyone has used ropes in the 9.4-9.6 range and see how quick do they wear out? Thanks for any and all beta. I like having a fat 10.2 for cragging and aid. Then a skinnier one or doubles for the mountains. Quote
Fromage Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 HEY CHEESEHEAD...he specifically said 9.4 ALL AROUND ROPE...not doubles... Thanks for pointing that out, Captain Obvious. I was merely suggesting that a set of doubles would be a superior choice to an all around rope. Having owned a pair of 8.1 Beals for several years I find them to be versatile and durable performers, not to mention light. With a little care my set of doubles and my single have lasted longer than three "all around" ropes would have. Quote
Squid Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 (edited) The Ice Lines are sweet. They inspire me to climb REALLY hard, cuz I know they'll blow if I fall Edited March 24, 2004 by Squid Quote
RuMR Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 HEY CHEESEHEAD...he specifically said 9.4 ALL AROUND ROPE...not doubles... Thanks for pointing that out, Captain Obvious. I was merely suggesting that a set of doubles would be a superior choice to an all around rope. Having owned a pair of 8.1 Beals for several years I find them to be versatile and durable performers, not to mention light. With a little care my set of doubles and my single have lasted longer than three "all around" ropes would have. That's me...firm grasp on the obvious... Quote
gnibmilc Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 Thanks Dan. Was that the same rope we used in the Bugs? I found a deal here in Toronto for a Beal 9.4 70m rope for $139 Canadian. Its a good deal but if the rope is shit, then I don't see a reason to buy it. Timo, Check the numbers on the Beal 10.2 Flyer. It is "lighter" than you'd think for the "diameter" listed. the Beal 10.2 is 65g/m compared to the 57g/m for the stinger and 63g/m for the 9.5mm Maximum. AND 66g/m for the Maxim 9.8! I think the marketeers are playing with the numbers a bit but for sure diameter is not proportional to weight, espeically across brands. But the 10.2 rates with 10 falls! And low impact forces. So probably not so good for jugging (bouncing away), but great for leading on dodgy gear. My 9.4 stinger had a tendancey to stick to rough rock surfaces, etc., even when new. check the bobbin count...i think that can give you an indication of the liklihood to be sticky, abrade faster, and wear out. the "tightness" of the weave used in the sheath construction I think can be infered by the bobbin count. i'm no big alpine guy and own several different ropes, but, if i could only have one rope for a long trip...it'd be the 10.2. look for a beal 10.2...might be one near the 9.4 (french ropes tend to stick together) Quote
minx Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 ok-so just to add some thread drift...which doubles do you like and anyone know of a good deal on them. Quote
lummox Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 ok-so just to add some thread drift...which doubles do you like and anyone know of a good deal on them. i really like the bluewater 8.8 or 8.6 ropes. the sheath is smooth like butter. Quote
gnibmilc Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 minxr, 8.1 Beals. what makes them so incredibly versitile is that they are/were rated as both twins and 1/2s. i'm guessing the newer 7.7 twins are the cause of the dropped dual rating, but, the rope is the same. PMI may be still making the same 8.1s, they did a few years ago. and they last forever. great sheath with a tight weave. as twins they have in the past been rated about like a typcial 10.5 in terms of impact force. as halfs, for a feather weight like you, they have great characteristics, ie, low impact force, reasonable elongation, etc. for the clydesdales class, when used as 1/2s, they are mostly for no fall situations or when you are too lazy or cheap or weak to carry those silly, yet stylist screamers (bad gear situs). look at the numbers: http://www.bealplanet.com/produits/anglais/produit2.html and buy them. the full retail price isn't too bad. they show up discounted fairly often (i think saw them out at that leavenworth shop cheap and PMS i think always keeps them around). Quote
RuMR Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 yo...barrabes has the icelines on sale by the meter...very very cheap right now... Quote
Greg_W Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 (edited) ok-so just to add some thread drift...which doubles do you like and anyone know of a good deal on them. Lanex. I looked at my link, but acme climbing doesn't carry them anymore. Do a search; sorry. Edited March 25, 2004 by Greg_W Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 i've used an edelweiss ultralight 9.9x70 for two years now and love it. will probably replace it soon with the same. it's heavy compared to most people's 60's (duh) but having a 70 has been so advantageous on so many occasions that i will likely never buy a 60 single. that said, i recently bought a pair of roca migu 8.1x60 halfs - primarily for ice, but i'm sure i'll end up using them for alpine routes. i haven't done much aid, but i think if i was doing a bunch of big wall stuff i'd prefer something along the lines of a mammut supersafe. i think the supersafe would make a great all-around rope if you only want one for everything. personally i'm not sure i'd trust a 9.4 for a shitload of trad, a bunch of aid, a mess of flying off sport routes ... *and* lots of hangdogging. unless you're into buying ropes pretty often. Quote
RuMR Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 whatever! You are so skinny and light there is no way you could trash a 9.4 these days... honestly you could probably use an 8.5 as a single and be ok...and for trad the skinnier ropes don't hit as hard on the gear!!! Quote
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