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gnibmilc

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Everything posted by gnibmilc

  1. Be careful out there

    some notes from days of teaching gear climbing (same stuff maybe stated just a little differently): -when learning to place gear, place some at ground level and jump up and down on it with a sling. yep. just like basic aid climbing...the old bounce test. (this IS hard on the gear). a person may learn a lot about how gear settles in when loaded. and remember that your gear may not be loaded in the purely downward direction when you fall. the rope may pull it outward first and rotate the piece around and not load it the way you thought it might. -as it turns out, we don't all have the same aptitude to anticipate what is going to happen to gear placements when loaded by a fall. our minds have varying abilities to see how the gear will be loaded and what will happen when it does. some people can see forward very well while others must learn by experience (see above). some never learn very well. -tug tests well leading are smart tests. the gear may settle in a bit and show it's weakness or just give that nice reassuring sound of a good placement and snap of the sling or draw. this habit may help your head. -double up gear at critical placement points to reduce the chance of decking. -wear gloves when belaying many people have let go when the burn get's bad. good job to the belayer for holding on. -climbing is dangerous. and even when you think you've got it all figured out, unusual and dangerous things can and will happen. -get experienced and have fun climbing.
  2. lotus flower tower

    pretty good video. i'd heard the belays had been bolted years ago. wonder if so. one of the few worth getting in shape for...
  3. Willis wall beta

    north ridge of fury.
  4. Solo climb ideas

    yes. and i'm pretty sure he was being chased by some chick named Tami.
  5. Solo climb ideas

    RE Anyone heard of Goode NEB being Soloed before? The summit register several years ago had an entry from several years before from Croft (I'm 90% sure) that said "solo" with a second soloist.
  6. Dave Mahre dies at age 77

    I had the pleasure of meeting Dave Mahre on his 70th birthday. He was sitting on top of Mt. Stuart telling stories!
  7. New full color Yosemite Big Wall guidebook

    Nice work Chris!!!!! I look forward to the updated/new background information and first ascent stories. Those insights really make the Supertopo books standout and extend beyond.
  8. it's not as easy as it sounds. suck it up billcoe and give it a try...or are you too much of a girlipeewee.
  9. Condition of Ice face on North Ridge of Forbidden?

    Juan, That was us, the party of four Mountaineers. Interesting connection. I was the guy who tip toed out on the ice face and got some protection in. It seemed to me to be quite a bit steeper than 40 degrees, but, very good and fun and certainly a top ten climb in the range for me. Thanks for clearing the ropes! Almost vintage pictures? Post!!!! The face looked much icier this year and looked to have much less snow on it for the same time of the year 6 years ago...but i don't know what are normal variations in snow pack/glacier size. i would guess that the angle of the slope varies year to year depending on the season and deposition. with regard to warming, the only thing i'm sure of is that tax subsidies for SUVs isn't the right answer! That was a great climb, and although at the time i wasn't keen about descending the west ridge, it was a very pleasing way to round out a semi-circumnavigation.
  10. Condition of Ice face on North Ridge of Forbidden?

    Juan, I think we climbed the NW face of the N. Ridge of Forbidden the same time a half dozen years ago in late August?
  11. Leavenworth Accident report

    that column was jacked by some jerks...it didn't fall over. if they cared about the safety of the climb, they could have anchored it to columns behind it. that was just advanced trundling by some bad actors.
  12. Is Aid climbing fundamental skill?

    strong bouldering skills and shape are probably much more useful...
  13. Fig-8 Devices Can Kill

    yeah but at least I won't die with my pecker in a cross loaded pearbiner.
  14. Fig-8 Devices Can Kill

    The DMM Belay Master is good for climbers over 40 and stoners because it is nearly impossible to not immediately notice if it isn't locked. But it kind of sucks because you cannot use it directly into the harness, bypassing the the belay loop because there isn't enough room for the harness belt,etc. below the black plastic piece. "bypassing the belay loop" can kill too. "directly into the harness" at belt and legloops = automatic crossloading You must be getting something else caught in there. The Whilan's locker or similar and a typical harness seem to keep the carabiner and device and (potential) load direction colinear (in the right alignment to prevent cross loading). some of those mountie courses include overhanging rappels and catching high loads/impacts where cross loading would result in snapped hardware, but it doesn't happen (emperical evidence?). look again, i think you've got your daisy or something in there.
  15. Fig-8 Devices Can Kill

    The DMM Belay Master is good for climbers over 40 and stoners because it is nearly impossible to not immediately notice if it isn't locked. But it kind of sucks because you cannot use it directly into the harness, bypassing the the belay loop because there isn't enough room for the harness belt,etc. below the black plastic piece.
  16. Shuksan N. Face Conditions

    or buckner?
  17. Accident on N. Ridge of Forbidden

    it may go something like this: party of three climbing full north ridge of forbidden, not to be confused with the nw face variation of the n ridge of forbidden. guy breaks at least one ankle, maybe a compound fracture or two (some bleeding). two climbers make their way back out and they come accross a group of mountaineer.org climbers in the afternoon on saturday, borrow a phone and call in the location of the hurt climber. he was below the intersection point of the nw face variation, as indicated by the snow/ice slope (which looks to be in very nice shape!). they dropped him a radio on Saturday late afternoon and talked to him. picked him up on Sunday morning/afternoon and took him to the doctors. don't think they landed on the ridge, only got close to drop radio and haul him. the pilot does have a sense of humor as indicated by saying hello to my partner as he shat on the hill side there on the plastic composting wc...although he may not initially have known what he was seeing as he approached. they ought to put no slip footing on that thing or tilt it up hill before someone slides off. need i drift. haven't heard how the guy is doing. i hope well.
  18. damnation

    i know. i'm just a little chapped about falling off angel several times last weekend. i curse the slippery angel.
  19. damnation

    Grease? you want to squeak about grease? get on Angel next door! Got to agree Damnation is one of the best around here in that 5.8 to .9 range.
  20. The Ultimate Mountain Shoe

    i used a cheap pair of (flexible) ASIC cross country running shoes that accepted screw in spikes to climb the north ridge of stuart. no problem at all. but that climb is perfect for cheating since the distance and one time crossing on ice is well suited to this type of tactic. the dirt comes out easily if you just smack the shoe against a boulder. seems like the strap on is a better option for "on/off" applications and slightly more technical terrain and longer outings. the cross county shoe alone can allow brusing of the bottom of your foot and isn't too stable when scrambling. nice concept.
  21. werd

    you guys cyberhumping again?
  22. The Gear Worship Thread

    #11 Hex (corded).
  23. New 7/8" Alien

    what about that pink camelot size depicted in the supertopo cam size chart?
  24. Climb: Chianti Spire-East Face/Rebel Yell Date of Climb: 6/20/2004 Trip Report: Matt and I waddled up to give the Rebel Yell a try and had a fun time of it. What fine weather...perfect temperature, even when the sun hid behind the occasional cloud. The climb is really very good with a good mixture of crack and rock types and great protection. We found a single set of cams to a #4 Camelot, one set of nuts (which we rarely used) #5-11 Hexes (very useful), and a dozen single slings, and two 60 metre half ropes to be plenty of gear to sew it up. Two 50m ropes would suffice and I believe would still permit a four rappel descent straight down the fall line to the glacier below as we did with the two 60m ropes. No newer fixed gear (beside the bolts shown in the Nelson guide) on the route! An axe might have been nice for the hike across the snow/glacier to get to the base of the route (right hand start). We brought none, but we didn't do any unintentional glissading and only loss of control at the base of the route would subject one to a collision with stationary rock below. Next time I'd say the other spires should be included in a traverse for sure...as BobbyPeru suggested some time ago...and El Gato Negro? Thanks Matt!
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