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Trad Ethics Poll


EWolfe

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i agree w/ thinker, will, and everyone else that says screw what other people think and just have fun climbing. however, after looking at where the votes are on the poll, it appears as if this conclusion could be drawn by the 74% group--if your leading a crack, placing gear as you go, but you clip the slung chockstone (or fixed pin, or slung tree) then its not a trad climb? that doesnt really fit in w/ what has always seemed to be called trad climbing (to me). but having fun is more fun than caring what other people climb.

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Alex Lowe, and I think someone else too, once said, "The best climber is the one who is having the most fun".

 

Just go climb and enjoy the many different styles out there. If you climb a new route, call it whatever you want BUT also include how you did it.

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Alex Lowe said I'm a special boy, Alex Lowe said only eat the purple fruit loops...

 

Guess what? That quote was nice, in a kindergarden-cop sorta way the first three times I heard it. Now it's just fucking annoying. It ain't all puppies and lolly-pops and fresh baked fuckin' cookies. The best climber is the one having the most fun? Bullshit Chepe. The best climber is the one on the verge of throwing up breakfast because they're 40ft out on a tied off blade, in an impending storm, past the point of retreat, pulling the hardest moves of their life, and getting some kind of sick satisfaction from the combination of mental and physical anguish involved. Believe that. wave.gif

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Alex Lowe said I'm a special boy, Alex Lowe said only eat the purple fruit loops...

 

Guess what? That quote was nice, in a kindergarden-cop sorta way the first three times I heard it. Now it's just fucking annoying. It ain't all puppies and lolly-pops and fresh baked fuckin' cookies. The best climber is the one having the most fun? Bullshit Chepe. The best climber is the one on the verge of throwing up breakfast because they're 40ft out on a tied off blade, in an impending storm, past the point of retreat, pulling the hardest moves of their life, and getting some kind of sick satisfaction from the combination of mental and physical anguish involved. Believe that. wave.gif

 

This gets my vote for post of the week. Nicely stated Will. Perfection.

 

Greg_W

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thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif thinker!

 

good attitude. i'd climb with you

 

i think most people are pretty good about differentiating between what they can lead and what they can second. i for one have gained a lot from climbing things on TR that i couldn't conceive of leading yet. it has provided me the opportunity to gain some strength, practice some technique, and have a lot of fun w/my partners laughing at my flailing.

 

that said, the quote about having the most fun is a pretty sticky sweet and not really accurate in my mind. there's some bad ass climbers out there on some seriously hard routes. i'm not even participating in the same activity as some of those folks. they deserve a level of respect for their skills that the average weekend climber doesn't.

 

 

Edited by minx
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thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif to Will and his continuum description....it set me to thinkin' again...

 

For some odd reason, most people like to organize everything into opposiong categories...black and white, sprot vs trad, up vs down, good/bad, democrat/republican, christian/muslim, etc.

 

Being able to recognize and accept that lines blur or simply don't exist opens your mind up to a more complete perspective on life.

 

The classic example for me is a group of people sitting in a circle who are looking at the same object. Because of varying perspecive, lighting, individual backgrounds, moods, and coutless other parameters, each person will likely give a very different description of the object when asked. Who has the RIGHT description? Is someone elses wrong if it contains contradicting information?

 

It's easy to see in this context, but sometimes much harder when we have an emotional or social stake in the issues being considered in our everyday lives.

 

Peace out! bigdrink.gif

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Alex Lowe said I'm a special boy, Alex Lowe said only eat the purple fruit loops...

 

Guess what? That quote was nice, in a kindergarden-cop sorta way the first three times I heard it. Now it's just fucking annoying. It ain't all puppies and lolly-pops and fresh baked fuckin' cookies. The best climber is the one having the most fun? Bullshit Chepe. The best climber is the one on the verge of throwing up breakfast because they're 40ft out on a tied off blade, in an impending storm, past the point of retreat, pulling the hardest moves of their life, and getting some kind of sick satisfaction from the combination of mental and physical anguish involved. Believe that. wave.gif

 

That's pretty awesome, Will. I agree, this may be quote of the week. rockband.gif

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I read todays thread, and one of my favorite climbs comes to mind...

Rock Warrior in Black Velvet canyon.

 

Put up on the lead, some bolts, some gear,

well protected but kinda run out.

 

The route takes a completely independent line up a beautiful face,

20 feet away from the most popular 5.10 in the state.

 

The climbing is primarily face climbing on good holds,

but protects well with TCU's and wires.

 

The first ascent team was the baddest trad dudes in 6 canyons,

now they all sportclimb.

 

None of this makes much sense.

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Alex Lowe said I'm a special boy, Alex Lowe said only eat the purple fruit loops...

 

Guess what? That quote was nice, in a kindergarden-cop sorta way the first three times I heard it. Now it's just fucking annoying. It ain't all puppies and lolly-pops and fresh baked fuckin' cookies. The best climber is the one having the most fun? Bullshit Chepe. The best climber is the one on the verge of throwing up breakfast because they're 40ft out on a tied off blade, in an impending storm, past the point of retreat, pulling the hardest moves of their life, and getting some kind of sick satisfaction from the combination of mental and physical anguish involved. Believe that. wave.gif

 

This is me, hahaha.gif, laughing at you --> moon.gif

 

sheesh will, you taking lessons from glassgowkiss???? yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

 

such hyperbole is very becoming of you...must getcha all da chix huh?? wazzup.gifwave.gif

Edited by RuMR
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Alex Lowe said I'm a special boy, Alex Lowe said only eat the purple fruit loops...

 

Guess what? That quote was nice, in a kindergarden-cop sorta way the first three times I heard it. Now it's just fucking annoying. It ain't all puppies and lolly-pops and fresh baked fuckin' cookies. The best climber is the one having the most fun? Bullshit Chepe. The best climber is the one on the verge of throwing up breakfast because they're 40ft out on a tied off blade, in an impending storm, past the point of retreat, pulling the hardest moves of their life, and getting some kind of sick satisfaction from the combination of mental and physical anguish involved. Believe that. wave.gif

 

That's some righteous shit! thumbs_up.gif

But is it trad? hahaha.gif

 

Nice troll on the "natural" protection, too moon.gif

 

Where's Dwayner to really try and convert us to his way of thinking? tongue.gif

 

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You know there are two ways to interpret that quote.

 

1) Whoever has the most fun, is the best climber. Obnoxious hippy interpretation. "BRAH! Im TR dogging a 5.7 but its so much fun!!!"

 

2) The better a climber you are, the more fun you have. The world's best climber, is the one who has the most fun, cause you can climb shit that no one else can touch.

 

I knnda think maybe meaning #2 is the one Alex subversively meant, cause he was "the world's best climber" there for a while it seemed. "You can't bring Alex - that's cheating!" yellaf.gif

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Trad climbing is any climbing on natural protection, preplaced or not

Trad is crack climbing, whether bolted or not

Trad climbing is exclusively the realm of placing natural gear on lead

 

I think trad is the first two options at different times. I don't think bolts make it sport, and I think the third option can be eliminated. I wouldn't condsider the "Bachar-Yerian" a "sport" route. It's definitly "sporty", definetly not "sporto". The bolted routes in the south platte, like "fields of dreams growing wild" - definetly fall in the trad realm. I think the definition of sport climbing is based on the attitude and philosophy of the sport - not the gear used. Use gear to eliminate most of the risk, so you only have to concentrate on the hard moves, and it is a sport climb. Placing your own gear (and fixed gear) on lead on the first ascent of a route with adventure and committment makes it a trad climb, regardless of the style used on subsequent ascents. The grey area being all of these new multi-pitch "sport" climbs, where extra time is spent equipping the route to minimize risk for subsquent ascents. Of course on the otherhand, many of the endless splitters in indian creek could be considered by some to be "sport" climbing. Plug and chug.

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go load another bowl brother, the question at had has to do exculsively with leading pitches a tr ia a tr on any route

 

I know its about leading, but I was just wondering what people thought to some one following on a trad line. since we're on the subject and all, it kinda follows in the same lines as weather you think its trad weather its preplaced or not. when you come back from a trip, and your talkin bout the trad routs you and your partner sent over the weekend, do you say well I climb some trad lines this weekend but my partner just followed, so he/she didn't really climb any "trad" lines this weekend. That would just seem kinda.... well stupid, to me anyways...

it only counts as climbing if you are with a partner of equal skill and you swing leads... if it is anything else it is ropegunning for some pussie.

 

edit: I don't care for leading. I prefer to climb witha ropegun and when I set up a climbing apointment I make that abundently clear. If I want to work on my meager leads I say I want to climb 5.7 if I want to french freee I can sporto 5.10a (or follow trad and fall).... But I know my limits, I know what I am capable of and I am straight about it.

 

climbing with someone new is about comunicating about your goals.

 

I can understand why people want a clear definition. comunication is challenging unless we have agreed upon definitions of certin words and concepts.

Edited by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer
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