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Posted

I found a good way to work out on the pull-up bar if you are wanting to keep at around 10 reps and are too storng to do this with regular and too weak with one arms (i can't even do one). toss a towel over the bar and grab both sides with one hand and the bar with the other. change hand positions on the towel to vary the difficulty of the pull-up.

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Posted

that's kind of like what Gadd recommends in his new book. i don't have it here, but it somewhere in tbe training section. i think i'll finally give that a try sometime soon. time to pull down! thumbs_up.gif

Posted

Give it a try and you'll see. Change in grip forces you to pull way harder with the arm w/o the towel while using muscles in the towel arm differenly. Ow, ow, my tendonitis hurts just thinking about it.

Posted

I've always just grabbed my arm just below the wrist with the other hand and done one-armed pull-ups that way. Am I missing something? Is that making it easier, and I'm not being efficient in the work-out? confused.gif

Posted

One thing I've done in the gym is an offshoot of the towel method described. Take a towel to a lat-pull machine, wrap it around the bar where the wire runs to the weights at the midpoint of the towell and pull down on the ends. You can do this two handed to give a different feel for the exercise or grip the towel one handed to work on the one handed method. The great thing about this method is that it gives varying loads, but adjusting your grips on the other towell method should accomplish this as well... probably cheaper if you don't have a gym membership...

Posted
I've always just grabbed my arm just below the wrist with the other hand and done one-armed pull-ups that way. Am I missing something? Is that making it easier, and I'm not being efficient in the work-out? confused.gif

moving the helper arm closer and closer to your shoulder makes it harder. eventually you will be able to do a one arm. but what is the point? i dont think it helps a huge amount in climbing better.

Posted
Not even close. That's an assisted one-arm pull-up. Try doing one with just one arm and you'll see the difference.

 

I'm quite aware that it's assisted. That wasn't the question.

Posted
moving the helper arm closer and closer to your shoulder makes it harder...

 

This ^^ was more along the lines of the answer that I was asking for. Not a 1-arm from the get-go, but working towards it.

Posted

Doing a pullup, locking off, and letting go with one hand is also a recommended way of working up to one-arms. Start with just trying to hold the lockoff with one arm, then you want to try and lower yourself with one arm (in a controlled fashion, natch), and work up to lowering yourself and stopping at various points and holding the lockoff, e.g. at 90 degrees, 60, 30, etc. Theoretically, once you've got all that under control, you can start trying to reverse the process.

 

It should be noted, though, that a young DFA tried this program for a while and never could crank off a one-arm. But DFA ain't exactly the burliest monkey at the gym, either.

Posted
It should be noted, though, that a young DFA . . . never could crank off a one-arm. But DFA ain't exactly the burliest monkey at the gym, either.

my previous opinion of you has been dashed to atoms. cry.gif you are a mere mortal?

Posted
Last I heard, Dave Graham can't do a one-arm...but I have met mediocre climbers who can crank out a couple. Depends on who you want to be.

i am lummox hear me roar.

i used to be able to do a few one arms. i am 20 pounds heavier now --muscle of course hellno3d.gif . maybe thats why i cant pull the one arms anymore. that muscledrunk strength was handy for some overhanging jug hauls but i dont encounter those routes very much. i dont reckon i will ever jump onto action directe or realization or sumpin. that one arm shit is overrated.

Posted
I found a good way to work out on the pull-up bar if you are wanting to keep at around 10 reps and are too storng to do this with regular and too weak with one arms (i can't even do one). toss a towel over the bar and grab both sides with one hand and the bar with the other. change hand positions on the towel to vary the difficulty of the pull-up.

i think that's also in the how to climb 5.12 book ... wave.gif

Posted
one arm pull ups don't make you climb stronger.

 

crimp strength and contact strength, damn I want both!

 

well locking off on thirty fingerlocks/pin scars in a row certainly seems to use the same muscles, so I am gonna keep doin it mmmmk?

Posted
well locking off on thirty fingerlocks/pin scars in a row certainly seems to use the same muscles, so I am gonna keep doin it mmmmk?

 

Of course, footwork is another option. But I would guess that really hard cracks (eg City Park?) do require some serious arm strength. For climbs below 5.12 at least, it seems like honed footwork would be a lot more useful. Extreme strength could conceivably be disadvantageous if it encourages poor technique.

 

In terms of what is higher yield and more fun (for me), I would always choose to do more climbing!

Posted
put it this way, distel....bein' able to bust the one arm can't hurt, right? plus, its a hella party trick, no??

 

doesn't hurt, but there are about twenty other ways you could maximize training time that would have much greater effects on your climbing.

Posted

the cherry stem knot is a much more effective party trick. it tells girlz what you can do with your tongue whereas with a one-arm it just makes them wonder why you have one arm that is so strong blush.gif

Posted
the cherry stem knot is a much more effective party trick. it tells girlz what you can do with your tongue whereas with a one-arm it just makes them wonder why you have one arm that is so strong blush.gif

if you are having drinks with cherries in them it tells girls that you are a fag.

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