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Everything posted by jlag

  1. RIP Corvallisclimb

    I struggle to put into words how amazing climbing with Tyler was. I'm with Layton on just how unique Tyler was, not really giving a shit about what other people thought. When going out with him you knew it was true adventure time, just for the love of getting into the unknown. He's done so much for the climbing community in Oregon, putting up new routes and helping bringing back old sketch ones(Santiam Hwy Ledges). Hell Tyler replaced bolts and anchors on sport routes he didn't even care to climb. That is the kind of person he was, always willing to contribute. One of my favorites was cragging at Smith one day and Mark D and Tyler show up to run up some easy dirty crack. Tons of newbs around and these two show up with a bag of red wine. Tyler takes off on lead and after about 40 feet with no gear placed, Mark yells up "Hey is there any reason i'm holding this end of the rope?" Thanks for all the memories Tyler, you were one of a kind. I will miss him. JL
  2. Santiam Hwy Ledges topo?

    I agree, if you just follow that ledge to the starting point for the 1st pitch pretty straight forward. The only beta i'd give is the anchors for 1st pitch belay are at your feet and camo'd, they hide a bit. The money pitch is bolted and gear down low but save some gear for up high. It's a really long pitch and runners help with drag. Might as well run up The Thumb, it's right there and has anchors so you don't have to downclimb. After that it's mostly scrambling/traversing to get to the top, but more than we anticipated.
  3. Pole creek?

    Yes for now i'm pretty sure any restoration efforts are done. We finished the barrier fence replacing the burned up one around the lot/bathroom. Even 2 weeks ago we drove to the TH no problem, with maybe 2-4" on the ground. After yesterday's rain event i'm sure it's bare. Curious how the road fix's held with potential flooding again. If i hear any news at all about opening to the public or winter access i will post it. JL
  4. Pole creek?

    As of now the TH is closed to the public until they get the Hazard trees until control. The road is lined with standing dead and will take sometime to get them down. They recently just had to fix the road as the rain event in early November combined with the burn blew out the road in numerous spots. From what i heard they plan on opening the TH to the public late Spring depending on access due to snow. For those of you familiar with the area it's pretty crazy up there. We've been up at the TH doing fence work the last few weeks and it burned quite hot. You can actually see N. Sister from the TH now, if that provides you with indication of how bad(good) it burned. Should be much easier to ski closer to the TH on the descent. JL
  5. Smith Saturday

    Should be warm in the sun. Looking to get some multi pitch in the afternoon.
  6. Perfect fall weather in Central Oregon this weekend. Looking for partner to climb non main area stuff at Smith. Preferably moderate multi-pitch away from the masses. Or just avoid Smith and hit Cougar Buttress and see not a soul. feel free to pm, available both Sat/Sun. JL
  7. passive pro at Smith

    I will 2nd that, the beginning of that last pitch is pretty stout for shorter folks. And pretty big run out on moderate terrain up above that. IMO that pitch is certainly not just as moderate. Theres a couple of tricky moves 5.8ish near the beginning of the pitch and some decent run outs(even with retro bolting). The book makes it sound way easier and more friendly than I've ever found it to be. I know the first time I did it I was somewhat surprised. Maybe I'm a wuss tho.
  8. Follow local Northwest splitboard mountaineer Kyle Miller on his “epic hunt for good snow” in the U.S. premiere of Crest Pictures’ newest film FreeRider. Take a journey deep into the mountains of Wyoming with a group of hard-charging skiers and snowboarders in KGB Productions’ Wyoming Triumph. FreeRider is a 14-minute documentary chronicling Miller's great passion for his sport, his love of the mountains and the wilderness, his ski bum lifestyle, his triumphs and disappointments, his pain and his joys, and his unyielding dedication towards fulfilling his riding dreams. Snowboarding has come a long way in the last few years, and splitboard mountaineering is at the forefront now. Miller is part of this new vanguard. He is an admired and respected splitboarder who has been featured in Off-Piste, Backcountry and Frequency magazines. Each season Miller sets a high bar for himself. In 2010, he successfully climbed and rode all 25 volcanoes in the Western United States. Last year he went for and completed Washington’s 10 highest peaks while the cameras rolled during the filming of FreeRider. Wyoming Triumph is a 55-minute grassroots film featuring a veteran and youthful band of ski and snowboard friends and professionals, including Rob LaPier, Trevor Hiatt, Max Hammer, Tucker Mead, North Parker, Matt Luczkow, Trevor Thomas and Aidan Sheahan. Two years ago they set out on a mission to scout the vast and mostly unskied rugged interior of their home state, where more folks own elk rifles than skis. They traveled throughout the great big mountainous backcountry terrain of Wyoming in search of fresh lines and remote locations. The film not only explores the drive of this unique group of passionate individuals, but also takes the audience on a Wild West journey through parts of the “Old West” that still exists today. Following countless broken bones, close calls and getting lost, they return home with a story. Websites and trailers FreeRider: http://www.crestpictures.com/freerider Wyoming Triumph: http://www.wytriumph.com Presenting on Thursday, February 23, at McMenamins Old St. Francis School Theater, 700 NW Bond St. in Bend. Admission is $8 in advance; $10 at the door. The doors open at 8:30 PM so come early, have a beer, buy raffle tickets, and hook up with friends. The show starts at 9:00 PM. Proceeds are for the benefit of the Central Oregon Avalanche Association (COAA).
  9. North Sister - Early Morning Couloir

    Yes, just get up/down the thing before it starts raining rocks.
  10. North Sister - Early Morning Couloir

    Avy danger is pretty minimal, no new snow and the base is quite solid. Great time to get after EMC with the high pressure holding. Don't even deal with Bowling Alley or W. side, just come down the NE ridge and back out Pole Creek. i wish i had more beta on the Pole Creek road, but my guess would be you could get pretty darn close. I now folks that have driven to Wychus Creek Falls no problem. Pretty much great time to get after any E. side routes. JL
  11. lightweight approach shoe ideas?

    Five Ten Descents. Not much too them, very basic and super light. Therefore not much support or cushioning at all. Super sticky rubber. Good seeing ya at RR Mike. How was Ginger Cracks? JL
  12. smith climbing partner

    Let's do it Tyler. I don't have to aid do i? JL
  13. smith climbing partner

    check you pm's
  14. 2nd notch is better, 10 ft of 3rd class and then you come down the other side. Climber trail is right there and leads down to main Misery Ridge trail. JL
  15. Going under the knife

    So glad to hear all is well Ken. Keep your head up and keep pulling on stone. JL
  16. I'm a local and i support removing the bolts. I consider myself part of the community here. JL
  17. Shoes found-Smith Rock

    On the gully approach to "the most obscure climb at Smith Rock". Pm me with description and i'll get the shoes back to ya. JL
  18. Super Slab Bolted???

    Just wondering if anyone knows who decided to put up a bolted route RIGHT next to Super Slab at Smith. It saddens me to see a line of bolts within reach of the starting crack of a pretty classic climb that was put up sans bolts over 30 years ago. The first 2 bolts are literally 8ft left and then they begin to veer left a bit going into some junky rock. The route looks about 5.5ish and i'm not sure if it goes to the same anchors as pitch 1. Seems like a bad idea to add more folks to that belay/rap anchor up there, especially since it shares with parties coming down. I have not climbed the route so i'm not sure about anchors. Not trying to start a shit storm here, just curious if the bolter would step up and offer some insight into the squeeze job literally on top of a moderate trad classic. JL
  19. Super Slab Bolted???

    You are mistaken, this route is not in the book. I'm not talking about Stroke of Brilliance, which is the upper pitch alternative that leads to the top. This is a newly bolted P.O.S. from the ground, allowing folks to get up there without carrying all that pesky trad gear. JL
  20. Super Slab Bolted???

    Ummmm. I did check the guidebook, did you? Obviously not as the route is not in there. Thanks for all you've done for this thread, much appreciated. In my opinion the route is too close to a classic and offers little. Was just curious as the rationale behind squeezing a lackluster bolted line in. Let's just let it alone.
  21. Super Slab Bolted???

    I really didn't mean to start a shit storm, just wanted honest opinions, and i appreciate them. Just figured the climbing community should know what is going on out there, sorry if i offended. I guess call me old school, just seems like a really contrived route right next to a trad classic. Why add more folks to an already super crowded route is my question. I was hoping the bolter could answer, that's all. You are correct, it is not as bad as the route next to Lion's Jaw, but doesn't make it necessary to do so IMO. Most folks around here do not like that route, and would love for it to be yanked. But nobody wants to piss off the owner of Metolius, he put's up a route every year for his b-day and that was one of them. The new bolted route next to SS has not been there long, maybe a month or so. You could't miss the bolts if you climbed SS, but you wouldn't clip them. I think i might be able to get a new route in between BBQ the Pope and Testament Crack, just got to work out the moves. JL
  22. North sister conditions/trailhead access

    You can drive within 1 mile of the TH, basically right to the 10 mile marker. There are a few snow patches(very short though) that may give a low clearance vehicle a hard time, but just punch it. Nobody has tried past the 10 mile marker, snow was too mushy even for 4x4. JL
  23. looooong memorial day 26-30th

    Do you ever not keep bothering him about the amount of time he spends with his family? Is it really any of your business? Just asking...
  24. Anybody got any idea how bad the ticks are there currently? With the late season warm up i wonder if they'll pick me up and carry me away. maybe i can get one of them to rope gun for me? any help would be great, thanks Jlag
  25. FS-REDUCED-Beal Rando & Mammut ProCord

    check you pm's JL