Biggest SandBag [Local Route]

[tomtom]

Biggest Sand

[selkirk]

would be willing to throw my votes behind Classic and Dog Leg in the Icicle, seemed stiff to me. Or TUIB, most strenuous 5.9 i've been on. (I think Smoot gave it a 10c though )

 

I'm surprise no one has mentioned Midway through, scariest piece of 5.5 I've ever been on!

[skyclimb]

No way is classic crack harder than 5.8+, and dogleg has maybe one move of 5.8. I am no 5.12 climber, or even close to that, but these are good old school ratings for climbs. That doesn't make them sandbagged. For me a sandbag is when you not only infringe on the old school ratings, but actually down play a routes difficulty to the extent that people could get hurt.

Some climbs in the menagerie come to mind...like the 10c pitch on the turkey monster...or rawhide beign 5.8, and originally rated 5.7? I was doing overhanging heel hooking with three pieces of pro in 100 feet?

Those to me are sandbags.

[eric8]

If you know how to jam classic will feel easy for 5.8. If you do angel on a cool day and are the first one on it 10a feels right. Dogleg does feel stout for 5.8 harder then most 5.9 i think. In fact I always think dogleg feels harder than meatgrinder which is the "10a" to its left.

[MCash]

Tangled Up In Blue is atleast 1 grade easier than Classic Crack or Dogleg Crack (which are both fairly graded at 8+ for 11worth). So I guess TUIB is 5.7+.

 

Angel Crack doesn't seam harder than Libra Crack, but they are both harder than some 10Bs and 10Cs I've done.

[TimL]

I would call some of those routes, Dogleg, Angel Crack and Libra test pieces for the grade, but not sandbagged. Especially Libra and Angel are so short that is hard to warrent grading them any harder. If they were longer or at Squamish it wold be a different story.

[RuMR]

i think reptiles is at least 11a!!

[minx]

i think reptiles is at least 11a!!

 

yeah, i've heard other midgets say that too.

[RuMR]

but fat chickas always downrate it....

[minx]

but fat chickas always downrate it....

 

i don't care what you say it goes at 12b!!!

[RuMR]

...too late...burn credit goes to me!

[catbirdseat]

Tangled Up In Blue is atleast 1 grade easier than Classic Crack or Dogleg Crack (which are both fairly graded at 8+ for 11worth). So I guess TUIB is 5.7+.

 

Get outta here, Martin. Tangled Up in Blue is fairly rated. It is harder than Air Guitar, but AG is soft. TUIB will seem harder if you aren't good at stemming. If you are really good at it, and I know you are, it will seem quite easy.

[Sol]

Phone Calls From the Dead (11b) @ index.

that mantle to the chains is fricking HARD!

[Alex]

Dude the first mantle to the bolt is hard!!

[Sol]

Dude the first mantle to the bolt is hard!!

yep, i thought that was hard as well. but that last mantle was full-on show stopper. with steep sloping knobs, that had to be one of the weirdest pitches i've ever climbed.

[timbuktu]

Uh Oh, my first entry into the frothy ferment that is cc. I expect to get lambasted and harangued for whatever I say, so lemmehavit. . .

 

I agree with sh that a routes rating "feel" depends on its pro. For instance my onsite of celestial groove at p.g. last weekend left me a little surprised at how thin the LHC above the ramp was to protect. I loved the perfectly spaced edges every two or three feet or so for my left foot. I felt that the rating was entirely reasonable for a tr, but leading it left me feeling 10b, easily. I felt it was way harder than my Last Rights os, which is just to the right about 100' or so, and rated 10a. I'm sure though, that upon return I would feel that the rating would feel more reasonable.

 

For a case in point, the start of CG left my partner - and several others that day - totally stymied on tr. I felt it was a V2 breeze, so I realize that ratings are subjectively based on an individual's particular technical ideosyncracies.

I agree with so many about Index, that once you wire, the ratings are spot on. On a recent tr of Cunning Stunt I felt it was even a little soft, so I tried the red point and backed off the bolted traverse. That move above is forizzle, and made the thing feel sandbagged - gofigga.

 

For Classic Crack in lw I've seen it soloed in flip-flops. Once I learned to anchor bomber jams it feels straight-on 5.8. Again, I've never thought that ratings were for the onsight, but more accurately represent the style and abilities of the fa party.

 

Dogleg crack in lw has one awkward move to the right, but it is totally 5.8+. The climb just to the right, though - Hind Quarters - is rated .10-, but the damn thing has a super slopy move over a bulge that I had to yard throgh. Someone, please give me the beta on this. Right heel hook?

 

I want to lead BOC and RC in one pitch, so I've made sure to have Coach's Crack wired at the UWrock. If you can send and downclimb coach's from sit to sit using only the crack for feet BOC should feel just jiltingly exposed, but entirely doable, I hope - wishmeluck But then again, maybe I just have the perfect hand size for it.

If your hands haven't bled, you've never led a crack, so if it hurts alot, you must be doing something right. Eventually the pain will go away as your flesh adjusts to the abuse. A hex on tape

[fern]

Uh Oh, my first entry into the frothy ferment that is cc. I expect to get lambasted and harangued for whatever I say, so lemmehavit. . .

 

lemme be the first. Too many acronyms. You paying by the keystroke or something? we aren't all locals. Welcome to cc.com ...

[RuMR]

"Again, I've never thought that ratings were for the onsight, but more accurately represent the style and abilities of the fa party."

 

Why?? Whether or not its an onsight doesn't matter. The route is the route is the route...

 

"If your hands haven't bled, you've never led a crack, so if it hurts alot, you must be doing something right."

 

No, it means you must be doing something wrong...

Edited May 27, 2005 by RuMR

[timbuktu]

"the route is the route is the route"

 

Routes get much easier when wired.

 

"doing something wrong."

 

Nope. The blood is a right of passage. Has it been so long you've forgotten?

 

RuMR, you're like johnny on the spot. Does your cell phone ring when someone posts on cc. I bet you texed that last one in from some undiscovered remote cubicle somewhere. Do you have repetitive motion tendonitis in your thumbs from typing so furiously? It's a wonder you have any time to climb at all given your prodigious involvement in this forum.

[RuMR]

"the route is the route is the route"

 

Routes get much easier when wired.

 

"doing something wrong."

 

Nope. The blood is a right of passage. Has it been so long you've forgotten?

 

RuMR, you're like johnny on the spot. Does your cell phone ring when someone posts on cc. I bet you texed that last one in from some undiscovered remote cubicle somewhere. Do you have repetitive motion tendonitis in your thumbs from typing so furiously? It's a wonder you have any time to climb at all given your prodigious involvement in this forum.

 

Doesn't change the rating...duh...

[RuMR]

"the route is the route is the route"

 

Routes get much easier when wired.

 

"doing something wrong."

 

Nope. The blood is a right of passage. Has it been so long you've forgotten?

 

RuMR, you're like johnny on the spot. Does your cell phone ring when someone posts on cc. I bet you texed that last one in from some undiscovered remote cubicle somewhere. Do you have repetitive motion tendonitis in your thumbs from typing so furiously? It's a wonder you have any time to climb at all given your prodigious involvement in this forum.

 

I climb vicariously through you clowns!!!

[timbuktu]

Hi Fern, I just presumed that those that read my post also read the entire thread. Too much to ask? I only acronymed words that were already posted. Please let me know what you'd like to know and I'll stop paying by the keystroke.

 

lw = leavenworth

BOC above RC = Breakfast of Champions above Roger's Corner at Index

tr = Toprope

os = onsight

CG = celestial groove

etc . . .

 

Thanks for the welcome.

[Dru]

TNOMG!

[catbirdseat]

If anyone has the beta for Hindquarters, I'll take it too. It's been a couple years since I tried it, but at the time that bulge seemed like an enigma.

[timbuktu]

The act of destruction is also a creative act

TNOMG? Nice One. Now KMA.