timbuktu

Me beat chest too! Dis yeer I dun: Ske desent of imons from sumit Ske Desent of adams sowtwest shoots from summit cumpleet norf Rige a stooert 36howers hors to hors Burgner-Stanley Prrussickk 16hrs hors to hors Holland/Davis + Lovin arms 2 times, once wit 40' wipper godzilla + CP + Sloe Children Thin Fingers Rogers Corner + BOC (1pitch) axetera axetera axetera . . . wood luf too cliem hard sum day, but club hevvy. Wit yu? Yu like da poo poo wit fuff fuff. we be breast fiends

It's not a cookie, mother . . .

I took a look at JG yesterday and there are two baby robins just below the first set of chains. Momma gets pissed and starts dive-bombing when you get close, but there's no reason you'll need to get closer than a foot or two from the nest. This is Michigan's state bird. They are in the nightengale family, but are not endangered or threatened. The mother will continue to feed her babies as long as you don't directly violate the nest. This is what she gets for nesting in a flipping highway, gosh . . .

mybad AF, mosquitos also good, especially for salmon. Dead tossed baby birds bad. . .

birds eat mosquitos and other biting insects nimwit. Even if you don't like them, try to at least have a little more enlightened self interest. Oh, and by the way, Roger's Corner has a few interesting cautionary items pertaining to its delightfully overhanging second pitch. First of all there is a loose flake just about ready to tear off onto the belay. I breathed on it and it shivered. Second, right above that there is a #4Camalot that has broken wires and bent axle plates, but someone should spend some time and nab it. I couldn't budge it on lead. Third, yes, there is a birdsnest. It is avoidable, unless you're desperately thrashing for a good hold. It's at the top of the offwidth left of the large reacharound, if you know what I mean. p.s. mosquitos bad, birds good. For that matter, bats rock.

LMBTIJIYFB

Hey MCash, Tangled up in Blue is sweet, but just to the right of it I think is the ultimate wantage sandbag - ponykeg. It gets pretty offwidth at the top dontcha think. I've heard many a sprayer claim that Air Guitar is noticeably easier. Try it without clipping the hanger. Sowweeeeet!

The act of destruction is also a creative act TNOMG? Nice One. Now KMA.

Hi Fern, I just presumed that those that read my post also read the entire thread. Too much to ask? I only acronymed words that were already posted. Please let me know what you'd like to know and I'll stop paying by the keystroke. lw = leavenworth BOC above RC = Breakfast of Champions above Roger's Corner at Index tr = Toprope os = onsight CG = celestial groove etc . . . Thanks for the welcome.

"the route is the route is the route" Routes get much easier when wired. "doing something wrong." Nope. The blood is a right of passage. Has it been so long you've forgotten? RuMR, you're like johnny on the spot. Does your cell phone ring when someone posts on cc. I bet you texed that last one in from some undiscovered remote cubicle somewhere. Do you have repetitive motion tendonitis in your thumbs from typing so furiously? It's a wonder you have any time to climb at all given your prodigious involvement in this forum.

Uh Oh, my first entry into the frothy ferment that is cc. I expect to get lambasted and harangued for whatever I say, so lemmehavit. . . I agree with sh that a routes rating "feel" depends on its pro. For instance my onsite of celestial groove at p.g. last weekend left me a little surprised at how thin the LHC above the ramp was to protect. I loved the perfectly spaced edges every two or three feet or so for my left foot. I felt that the rating was entirely reasonable for a tr, but leading it left me feeling 10b, easily. I felt it was way harder than my Last Rights os, which is just to the right about 100' or so, and rated 10a. I'm sure though, that upon return I would feel that the rating would feel more reasonable. For a case in point, the start of CG left my partner - and several others that day - totally stymied on tr. I felt it was a V2 breeze, so I realize that ratings are subjectively based on an individual's particular technical ideosyncracies. I agree with so many about Index, that once you wire, the ratings are spot on. On a recent tr of Cunning Stunt I felt it was even a little soft, so I tried the red point and backed off the bolted traverse. That move above is forizzle, and made the thing feel sandbagged - gofigga. For Classic Crack in lw I've seen it soloed in flip-flops. Once I learned to anchor bomber jams it feels straight-on 5.8. Again, I've never thought that ratings were for the onsight, but more accurately represent the style and abilities of the fa party. Dogleg crack in lw has one awkward move to the right, but it is totally 5.8+. The climb just to the right, though - Hind Quarters - is rated .10-, but the damn thing has a super slopy move over a bulge that I had to yard throgh. Someone, please give me the beta on this. Right heel hook? I want to lead BOC and RC in one pitch, so I've made sure to have Coach's Crack wired at the UWrock. If you can send and downclimb coach's from sit to sit using only the crack for feet BOC should feel just jiltingly exposed, but entirely doable, I hope - wishmeluck But then again, maybe I just have the perfect hand size for it. If your hands haven't bled, you've never led a crack, so if it hurts alot, you must be doing something right. Eventually the pain will go away as your flesh adjusts to the abuse. A hex on tape