sk Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 erik said: no just make unbashing rude comments and spill my beer! and on that note....apprently some chap took a grounder on moonshine.... he was quaffing a beer and headed up...only to fall form 20ft. broke arm or something.... oops! no one we know I hope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 i guess he had a few pieces in...he was trying to set a stopper and was jearking on it quite hard. it pulled and down he went..... he also landed on his g/f or something... all 3rd hand account on my part as we heard it from a canyuckidan firefighter who watched it happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Dru said: google results i say we blame these guys. Pangaea Adventures, you have a lot to answer for. No integrated shorts/poly/gaiter units show up on google yet. I sense an opportunity here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Bummer thats a fun climb to ummm well top rope cause I am the queen of the top rope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 that sucks, when Yos and I were down there a month and a half or so ago someguy rapped off the end of his rope and broke his back, apparently fell from 50 ft, choppered out never heard anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: Figger_Eight said: Off_White said: I'd rule for the newly arrived team. If there was a rope in a pile at the base, then I'd ask surrounding people if they were going to climb it really soon. I don't think that a little folded card at the base that said "reserved" would cut it either. Want a route? Put a warm body on it. What Off-White said. DITO If I want a route I drop my pack under it and get my ass on it ASAP What they said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 fleblebleb said: What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? why would i want to climb at a crag with all .7 and belwo routes?? and if i did have the desire or the need to climb at crag such as this..i would pack up and go to another one. such an easy issue to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 the newly arrived team. the woman should have been ready to go, following the second, or at least in the process of getting ready especially at Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 I'd say "Fine" and move on...Would you really wanna hang out there anyway??? You are right, but there are some battles just not worth fighting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 fleblebleb said: What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? That's easy, going elsewhere is the only solution. Even if the line I wanted to do was open I'd likely be inclined to move on to quieter pastures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Distel32 said: that sucks, when Yos and I were down there a month and a half or so ago someguy rapped off the end of his rope and broke his back, apparently fell from 50 ft, choppered out never heard anything else I heard a 2nd hand account of this accident at the crag a couple weekend ago. From what I understand a local lead up the 1st and 2nd pitch of Magic Light as one pitch, threaded the rope through the anchors and lowered off from the top of the second pitch to the anchors on the top of the 1st pitch. Some time previous to this climb the local cut off part of the end of his rope thus shorting the rope from the oringinal length. Just as the local was lowered to the top of the first pitch the rope slide through the belayers device and the local decked. I was told he landed on his feet and suffered a broken back and sternum but it recooperating from his injuries. I think the lesson to learn from this unpleasent incident is to make sure a knot is in the rope or the belayer is tied into the system if the decision is made to lower off. Hiopefully the guy who got hurt will get better soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 RuMR said: I'd say "Fine" and move on...Would you really wanna hang out there anyway??? You are right, but there are some battles just not worth fighting... I don't know... sometimes a certain route just fits your mood and espescially if you've already been elsewhere, you shouldn't have to leave just because some boners think they own the fucking crag. Sometimes its better to tell them to fuck off and just start climbing. This works extra good if you've been drinking and you throw your empties at the mounties with their names taped on their brain buckets. Just don't fall like that dude on moonshine. Then you really look like a drunk idiot instead of just a drunk asshole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 fleblebleb said: What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? Were you headed out to Mountaineer's Dome this past weekend to work on your super secret 5.1 project route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 (edited) Let me add another hypothetical question to the fire. Where I grew up in the SOuth, it was proper etiquette to give up a route if you have set up a TR from another route or above if another party wants to lead it, or at least allow the other party to lead first, then you may set up a top rope. Obviously this doesn't apply at crowded places like Smith, where I have encountered many parties who were unwilling to give it up. For example, There was a party of two leading BBQ the Pope. I went up to the belayer and asked if anyone else was waiting and he said no. So we started breaking out are gear. Then a woman from around the corner came over and said she was climbing this line next, and we said well, you were not in line nor did you say anything to these guys climbing. She said that they had lead the 5.8 around the corner and that they were going to set up a TR as soon as the guys on the climb pulled their rope. They had 6 in their party and were unwilling to let us lead it quickly! Is this common? Maybe it was the same bitch! Was she in her late 30s with brown hair? Edited April 1, 2003 by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 fleblebleb said: What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? I once almost got into a fight with a Mountie instructor because I was climbing on the only route they didn't have their multitude of ropes hanging down from on "their crag", The guy yelled at us that they had "reserved" the mountain that day (which I knew to be total BS because it's a public place and the managing agency doesn't give out reservations). So I freed up a Class 4 route next to one of their ropes and he went ballistic. I used the utmost restraint not to toss him off the cliff, instead I , threatened him, walked down, and then led the beforementioned climb. Not to turn this into a Mountie bashing thread (it's just too easy to do), but I have had good experiences with the Mounties, but I'd say the ratio is 2:1 between pleasant exchanges (yeah, you guys can climb there) and unpleasant ones (morons rappelling the route I'm leading even though they see me leading and kicking off rocks onto my helmeted melon). As for the orginal topic, you were in the right, and I think just heading up the climb was the best option to do given that encounter. As for the "why would you want to climb a .7?" Sometimes it's nice to have a fun, non-threatening climb. And some of us are gapers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Ryland, I was brought up with those same ethics and it totally suprises me when other people don't adhere to them. The other day at Josh my partner and I almost got into a fight with some folks who had just finished leading and following a route but wanted to keep their toprope on it to run laps on it. We wanted to lead it so we just started climbing it and told them that was the local ethics too bad. It just astounds me what people find acceptable at the crag and too often I don't mind getting in their face about it. Maybe I'm an asshole, but that's the way it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 erik said: fleblebleb said: What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? why would i want to climb at a crag with all .7 and belwo routes?? and if i did have the desire or the need to climb at crag such as this..i would pack up and go to another one. such an easy issue to fix. Different partners, different routes, different crags. I like 5.9-5.10 these days but not all my partners do. If the people in these groups were actually climbing I'd not mind, but mostly they're just standing around. The basic course trips are the only ones that go beyond the 12 person limit (as far as I know...) and could just as well be carried out using a ladder on the side of a building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 fleblebleb said: erik said: fleblebleb said: What do you guys do when you walk into a group of ~40 mounties clogging up a whole crag with top-ropes, most of which aren't in use? why would i want to climb at a crag with all .7 and belwo routes?? and if i did have the desire or the need to climb at crag such as this..i would pack up and go to another one. such an easy issue to fix. Different partners, different routes, different crags. I like 5.9-5.10 these days but not all my partners do. If the people in these groups were actually climbing I'd not mind, but mostly they're just standing around. The basic course trips are the only ones that go beyond the 12 person limit (as far as I know...) and could just as well be carried out using a ladder on the side of a building. sprayin there eh flebebelebebe?? still there are many crags that fit this bill in the icicle without creating an issue. so still my point applies!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 the real question here is why anyone is arguing over who gets to climb bbq the pope next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 specialed said: The other day at Josh... This brings to mind a related story from J-tree, probably circa 1985. Soloing was all the rage, and there were several folks who got their rocks off by soloing moderate routes that people were in the middle of climbing, passing the second or trying to get on the route in between the leader and the second. These are one pitch routes, 5.7 to 5.9 we're talking about! I think it was on The Flake, 5.8 route on the west face of Intersection, that this twit did this to me and the beginner I'd taken out. I was soooo tempted to give him a swift kick to the ground from the belay as he smugly thrutched past: no one around, soloing is dangerous, dude just slipped, what a drag. I'm sure he has no idea how lucky he is that I'm a good citizen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 I'm surprised you didn't tell him to get off. Especially if he didn't ask for permission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Then there was the time some guys wouldn't let us pass on the East Face of Middle Cathedral. Got back to the road at 1:00AM. Lost some respect for Canadian climbers on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Off_White said: specialed said: The other day at Josh... This brings to mind a related story from J-tree, That's pushing it a little too far. I definitly don't advocate starting a climb while other people are still on it. Atleast not a single pitch climb anyway. The 80's at Josh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 A ghetto blaster pumping out some Insane Clown Posse or similar at full volume is a good way to drive other people away from the route you plan on doing. That or stripping naked and chanting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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