David_Parker

Are over on the original post by Wayne in "North Cascades" section. Unfortunately the batteries went dead just as we got into the real business. Guess that will always be for Wayne and I in our memories.

PHOTOS! (hope this works!)

Warthogs? Ok, I thought I was old school learning on snargs, but I've never actually used a warthog. I have two I scrounged up somewhere (brand new) but thought they were destined for the museum. Can you explain where/why they are useful ("the ticket") over modern ice stuff?

Tried to post photos, but it didn't work. sorry

Wayne, about the "If you had told me what this climb would be like..." That was when we were flailing badly in the blowdown in the dark, after 12 hours of climbing. Keep it in context! No regrets, eh? The pain is already subsiding, as usual.

Do you really think a broken arm would slow Colin down?

I definitely feel I had some "firsts" in doing this route. I think it was one of the most committing climbs I've ever done: retreat would be very difficult especially with one rope. I think I experienced the most constant flow of serious spindrift ever. My crux lead, encompassing two vertical sections with a move or two overhanging, unable to look up for most of it due to the spindrift, were by far the most run out leads I've ever done. My first foray into serious "X" territory with only 2 pickets for very marginal pro low down. I normally think of my tools as pro, but too many placements were not capeable of withstanding a full body weight pull. I attribute my confidence to keep moving up to 20 years of ice climbing and understanding 2 things. You climb with your feet and you must never fall. I have a few photos that I'm sure won't give justice to the route and unfortunately the batteries went dead on the upper section. Wayne's leads were equally impressive and the final crux rotten pillar/corner/mixed ended up being a joint effort. I went up part way and spent over 45 minutes excavating for rock pro. Screws were useless, not to mention we didn't have any. (Wayne has this propensity to save weight as much as possible and I found it visionary on his behalf to leave them in his condo. He also didn't tell me this until 1/2 way up the route.) I finally got a baby angle pounded in 1/2 way and an ushba titanium blade in a seam. I equalized them and then clipped a screamer. The pull on them would have been straight out if a fall had happened. I got one stick over an overhanging bulge, but by then my arms were feeling pumped from screwing around with the pins and I was so unsure of getting a good stick with a left tool I backed down to give a very cold and wanting to get going Wayne the lead. He did a nice chimney move to save pulling too hard on his tools and I ended up doing the same to get over. Over all, I don't really think the conditions were that terrible, as much of the climb up to the upper face went quickly. The first "scottish gully" was really fun, thin mixed climbing and the snowfields were fim enough that we weren't wallowing or anything. We took about 3 hours to do the first 3,000 ft. and another 4.5-5 to do the upper 1700 ft. Oh, and I'm pretty sure it was my first screw-loose (less) ice climb.

I'm glad you guys have your own friggin' language to talk about this stuff. Now we just need another catagory on CC. This makes "spray" look boring.

My problem is that the motion of raising glass, imbibing, repeat is so ingrained that it doesn't seem to slow down whatever I'm drinking. That makes your idea really dangerous! Not to mention I don't/can't drink whiskey of any kind. I prefer Rum, Vodka or Tequilla but not straight, so add mixer (tonic or juice) and do I really save on calorie intake?

I like to joke about my six-pack abdomen. It not the rippling six pack that you see in muscle mags. It's more of a small tire that I attribute to drinking beer. Over-all, I'm really quite fit and in pretty good shape. I know this is a good "reserve" for a long alpine climb, but really, I'd like to reduce it. Every one says cardio is the way to loose fat, but it doesn't seem to be going anywhere. I've even layed off the micro-brews in favor of lighter beer. Any other suggestions???

They make the vinylove in insulated too; yellow fuzy stuff on inside. These are alaska fishing gloves so go to any fisherman's supply in ballard. I rapped one time off Weeping wall and melted a hole. Use different gloves for rapping. Good grip, fine in above freezing weather with wet ice, no good for dexterity though. I used my CV icefloes on N. Face Chair. It was definitely below freezing and I didn't get cold at all. You should always carry an extra pair of gloves on any multi pitch ice climb!

Going to Alpental again thursday, 2-6 if anyone is headed there, lets hook up. I'll climb or ski anything also, if you prefer. Basically, I'm available (so far)!

From Muir, just head up the ridge or slope to right in rising traverse. Eventually it will put you onto the ledges. Should be no problem just following them the most logical way. Do'nt try to go up or down another level. You'll come out to a steep slope/chute going up to the right. It's pretty easy route to follow.

I did this. I took 1" flat black nylon pack strap material and folded it in half (along the length) and sewed it on a regular sewing machine except for the last 1" or so on each end where it remained full width. These "tabs" are the part you sew to the hip belt. I took them to my local shoe repair guy with a beefy sewing machine and he sewed them on for about $5. Sewing through the padded belt wasn't a big deal and did not "overly" compress the area at all. It comes out with a minor indent in the specific area, but doesn't affect the comfort at all. I use the shoe guy for lots of misc stuff for my gear. I like this better than stiffer stuff with fishtube because for the times I want to holster my ice tool(s), it conforms much better and is less likely to fall through, especially my hammer. I got this idea from REI repair because they did it to another pack of mine about a year ago. They are pretty reasonably priced for stuff like this. Way cheaper than Rainy Pass!

If my bladder is in my pack, right against my back, it doesn't freeze. I keep the tube in there as well. I still have to take the pack off to drink, but don't have to "dig" for the bottle. I'm gonna try the blow the water back in thing.

I had to meet with a life insurance guy last week and the subject came up about my climbing. Talk about clueless. I told him I should re-write their questionaire because it sucks. I told him to do some hypothetical research and get back to me. I met with him again today and he said there isn't much knowledge about it out there and he learned more from me in 5 minutes than he could find out anywhere else. The funny thing is, they don't even care if you white water kayak! Fortunately the guy is pretty cool and we figured out I may have to lie a little, which of course comes with risk too. It just pisses me off that the general public (an insurance underwriters) look at climbing as such an extremely risky sport. Thank the friggin' press for that! BTW, insurance was invented by the mafia. What a scam! You pay us, we don't pay you with out a fight. Someone who knew I was a "climber" ask me if I'd climbed Mt. Si. They were truly astonished when I said no!

It's possible if I spoke with the manager, we could get beer in pitchers. Guess we could move to the O&T later. Who showed up after I left at 10:00?

Washing the tent with your "friend's" blood might work.

That's me. I learned to shoot a gun before I had contacts. My left eye was much better so I held the rifle lefty. This sucks with shotguns that auto eject to the right! In analysing the situation, I followed suit in other sports where you hold a stick with hands apart...thus I played hockey, lacrosse lefty as well. Where my hands are together (golf, baseball) I'm righty. I waterski lefty (goofey). All else is righty. What the fuck do you call this...ambipsychodisasterous?

Mine's 62, but I'm on a porno site right now!

Nice to have Jim Nelson show up too! Other than that a rather small crowd. Great food at reasonable prices! So, what about the Pyramid ale house with pint specials and live Celtic music next week?

Did you check out Second Ascent in Ballard? If you go to Marmot, just talk to Beck. No lame service there!!

I did the Haute Route in France/Switzerland. Do I need to check with you guys to see if I did it right?

I stopped by the New Orleans last night. There are 2 rooms: the north room has a stage in the front 3rd and tables beyond. The south room is divided from the north room by a long wall with an opening as wide as 2 doors at the east end. There is an area in the front closest to the street with what I'd say is plenty of room for a typical CC pub club. In this area, you won't be able to see the stage so the line of music is not direct. There is a TV too Matt. I was in Hattie's Hat also yesterday and to me the New Orleans is a much better place than that. I don't know about the non-smoking thing, but the ceilings are really tall and have fans. It's a nice place. So unless anyone has some seriously compelling reason to Not go, I thinks it's worth a try! I don't know what time the band will start, but I know there is no cover charge and it's Swing type music...so come on girls, bring yer dancin' shoes!!! V, Jules, time to crawl out from under those rocks! If you don't show, I might end up dancing with Fendell! BTW, on Tuesday, Feb 4, The Pyramid Alehouse at 1201 1st Ave is featuring Tilt-A-Pint night with live Celtic Music, pint specials and Scottish food and more. Now if you do't like the sounds of that, then the only other place I can think of is the Deja' Vu!!

What about the other stuff in Provo. White nightmare, Miller's, Finger, top pitch of Fang?