David_Parker

Thanks Nelly, I concur getting out of the riparian zone has significant benefits. Sounds "reasonable"...we'll see. A lot of trees can fall down in 5 years! Anyone else?

Any one done this fairly recently? I figure this is the best way to Luna Col. Local beta appreciated! (I have Beckey and Nelson guide info already and read some stuff here on cc.)

[ 07-11-2002, 02:23 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

(bla-bla) = eliminate verbage [bla-bla] = add this verbage From page 316 (second edition) (SOUTHEAST RIDGE DESCENT) [sOUTHWEST COULOIR DESCENT] When arriving at the second notch from the summit {Black Tooth Notch}, one can rappel into the SW Couloir; this is the shortest descent. From the summit: Descend 2 long pitches obliquely towards the upper NE Buttress, passing the first sharp ridge notch {class 3-4}. After a continuing down-climb traverse, look for the obvious dirt ledge (leading) [at the same elevation] as the Black Tooth Notch. (Make a short descending traverse on a grassy ledge, then climb 8 ft steeply to the ledge) [Traverse rock ledges 100 ft and step around a corner to reach the notch.] Descend a loose gully-ramp on the W. side for about 100 ft. Look for rappel slings, [also visible from Summit] around a large block, then rappel (40) [140] ft. to reach the SW couloir. [Parties with single rope will find a sloping ledge with another block/slings at 70 feet, {but not visible from above} to reach the couloir in 2 rappels.] When descending the lower part of the couloir, beware of slabby dropoff near its base; bear left and circuit this by an easy ledge beneath white crags. The part about "grassy" ledge and "climb 8 feet" confused us more than helped us. I figured the "40 ft rap" was a typo and meant "140"; a somewhat critical adjustment! I have no comment on your approach across river and up cliff bands since we went a completely different way. You may comment it is possible on the far right of first cliff band as well. Cheers Fred, your work to put out these books is truly as huge and inspiring as the Cascades themselves! [ 07-11-2002, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Hey, where's the trip report???? Freemont was not convenient for arriving by speed boat so I didn't make it. Next week how about downtown or Alki!

Fred, I have notes on corrections for descent off Goode using SW Couloir. I'll send them asap. I'm at work, notes at home. I'll post here too for others to add/correct. Nelson/Potterfield suggest using Bedayn Couloir, but from what I have read here, most have not been happy with that choice. Wayne and I chose SW Couloir and had no problems. Approach beta might need adjustment as well. Sounds like some folks got "hosed" recently, but this may have been more to their lack of adjustment for lots of snow and raging waterfalls over first cliff bands. Check out: GO GET GOODE in this same forum. [ 07-10-2002, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Where's the ballroom. Is it walking distance from Bell street marina?

Garmont Boots "will take you further than you think." Wayne wore the Tower GTX's on Goode which he swore by. 15 mile approach and he really like the rubber for the climb. I believe I heard him say "the best boots I ever worn!" I actually wore Garmont Passos on the same climb. Now that is PROOF they will take you further than you think! I used Trango aluminum crampons on the glacier. Comparing the 2 boots, I think I was more comfortable on the hike, we were equal on the climb, and Wayne had the advantage on the hard snow. I have now ordered the Towers to be my boot of choice for the Cascades and Olympics! 2 weeks ago they were on sale at Feathered Friends. Limited supply and will not be reordered.

I have mixed emotions on this issue. While climbing in the Dolomites a few years ago, I asked myself why I spent so much $$ to go to Europe to climb when I have such an awesome backyard to climb in. But it's the whole cultural experience that makes Europe different from the US. What I really liked was that there were small villages everywhere that seemed to be surviving. Compare these to towns like Marblemount, Darrington, Winthrop, Leavenworth. Many of the Euro towns do rely on tourism, but believe me if the majority of their citizens drove to the bigger town/City down the valley to shop at COSTCO for essentials such as food and clothing, the town would die. Mom and Pop stores rely on locals to shop AND buy. There is an inherent loyalty to spend your money with the people you live with. It's a lcalized economy that is quite fragile. On the other hand climbing gear is very specialized and not really essential in the same way food and clothing is. So price is much more of a factor. The advantage Europe has is that it is much more densely populated and distribution of gear, for the most part, is not as difficult as the wide open US. Cost margins are not the same. Still, I agree that the mark up of gear in the US is proportionately higher and the profits are too. But we as a society expect a more luxurios lifestyle and seem overly consumption minded so higher profits support our lifestyle. I'm not saying Europeans aren't capitalists, but I think they have a better understanding of the balance of economy and have been much better at doing just that for hundreds of years longer. Why the US can't look at the things that work in Europe and LEARN from it baffles me. Their experience and mistakes are evident and we still continue to ignore it! I shop online and am always looking for a deal for climbing equipment. I try not to be in a hurry and wait for sales and deals. I rarely pay full retail for anything. We here on CC are probably mostly like this, but we don't represent the general public. Why do you think companies like the North Face and REI cater to the general public with so much of their product. Because there isn't much profit in climbing gear to begin with. We shouldn't complain about their prices, but they shouldn't be pissed about losing business to online .coms. It's a double edged sword. If Black Diamond can distribute product to Europe for less than the US, then there is someting WAY wrong with that. Europe can survive without BD no problem. BD needs to look at the big picture. They make excellent equipment for the most part and should be able to beat the Euro manufactures in price. I wonder how much of their ego gets in the way. Anytime a product is shipped to Europe and then shipped back to a US purchaser, well I think the writing is on the wall. They are charging too much in the US to the distributors of the equipment. So it's not the Mom and Pop store that's screwing us, it's the manufacturer's greed. Too bad for the Mom and Pop, their the ones really getting screwed. So I do like to support them, but just as we all seem to vote, our own pocket books have a limit and we can only go so far on principle. I have always maintained there is no such thing as "economics." There are too many social isssues to render it a rediculous science.

I've found my ropes have actually become stronger when stored in heated spaces above 85*. I'm heavier now and they still hold when I fall!

I should add there was a LOT of snow which I'm sure made all this VERY different, especially on the upper slabs, from when most people visit Goode. The Beckey approach map may be fine when the waterfalls slow way down, but they were raging when we were there! We were further up from the suggested crossing because that's where the snow bridge was. Crossing N. Fork Bridge creek any sooner was not an option.

quote: Originally posted by klenke: Some information about Mt. Goode NE Buttress climb. Lake Chelan boat Lady of the Lake parking: $24 at Field's Point for four days ($30 per week). Gadzooks! Boat fare: $25 round trip Shuttle bus costs: $24 round trip ($6 per zone one way x 2 zones x 2 directions). Take lots of cash. Plus, take extra for beer money in Stehekin. Due to boat arrival time in Stehekin and shuttle bus shedule, it is unlikely you will start the hike up Bridge creek earlier than 3:30PM. This may preclude getting all the way up to standard bivy below Goode Glacier. Thanks for confirming Wayne's and my decision to hike in from Hwy 20! Saves mucho time and $$$! I'll gladly walk an extra 5 miles (10 rt) through pristine wilderness, see nobody, and save $$$ on a 3 day trip.

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: I too will choose to take a moment and wallow in this pit of rain induced mud. In my case it was snow, and It felt like winter on the Ptarmigan. Thank God for Leavenworth though And thank god for the Methow Valley!

After crossing the massive snow bridge we headed obliquely right to the far right edge of the first cliff band where a violent stream comes down. Walked up slabs and then up snow again right up to the base of the waterfall and then a short section of 4th class on the left got us up to the next section. Meandered up low angle slabs a brief bit, through slide alder and onto snow which we followed up to a second tier of cliff bands which we bypassed on the left by following the snow through the last of the trees. Unable to find flat ground, we excavated a tree well for tent sight. We came down the same way because we wanted to go a way we knew. This proved a bit confusing because you have to pick the absolute correct two streams to descend between or you get trapped between the wrong two above cliffs. The last section of forth class we rapped off slings around a stubby tree. I added one of those screw shut chain links (small) and a teal supertape. That sucks you didn't figure it out. Thats a long way to go! I have repeatedly found my instincts are much different than Beckey guidebook. BTW: You may want to add this to your green book for the descent using SW Couloir. The first part fromn the summit is correct describing "descend obliquley right two long pitches towards the NE Ridge route. (Basically reverse last two pitches.) This puts you even with the Black notch which is easy to get to. It says something about climbing "8 feet" but doesn't say up or down, but it doesn't matter anyway because it's basically a 4th class traverse. Once at the notch I say: "descend about 100 feet of 4th class to an obvious boulder with slings.(You can actually see it from the summit) Rap (angling left as you face the rock) towards the SW couloir about 70 feet landing on a sloping ledge with another rap station of slings around a suspect boulder, not visible from above. Rap again about 70 feet to gain the couloir." It's not 40 feet like Beckey says! [ 07-08-2002, 09:56 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

I have friends on the Ptarmigan traverse right now. That might suck on day 5 when they are thinking about beer and teva's!

I will be over in Mazama Friday 5 to Sunday 7 if anyone is interested in hooking up for some climbing. Kids ok too, as I will have my 7 year old son with me.

Try THESE! WARNING: These boots will take you further than you think! I used these on my Mt. Goode trip THE WHOLE WAY! You can even put crampons on them if need be. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/product.asp?base%5Fno=61040&str%5Fbase%5Fno=60407%2C60514%2C60519%2C60548%2C60620%2C60622%2C60723%2C60750%2C60780%2C60874%2C60934%2C60955%2C60964%2 C61006%2C61023%2C61039%2C61040%2C61101%2C61102%2C61112%2C&header%5Ftitle=Footwear%2DHiking+Boots+and+Shoes&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L2%7E347&size1=&siz e2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&cont=1&intPgNo=1&special%5Ftype=&mscssid=6PPE8FFU47QN9PN74FUL4V0AFPUQ90M6

You're right, I was reffering to the jpg image # not the sequence in shutterfly. I removed some of the obvious rejects so they don't match up 1 to 1. Thanks Paul.

Photo #62 is NOT of Booker. Photos 54 thru 63 form a complete panoramic. I have now stiched them together as a complete moving pano if anyone's interested in seeing it. I can only email it directly though. [ 06-27-2002, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Sounds like if you switched from BASE jumping to parapenting, the whole Cascade range would open up for you!

Took this shot of N. Face of Booker from the top of Goode last weekend. Can't tell how vertical it is but 3,000 might be be about right if you land in the basin. Pretty remote location and fairly chossy from what I could tell. The Mt. next over is back side of Buckner. Forbidden is dark triangle on far right in the distance. Your approach is either over Cascade Pass and climb south side or up Park Creek basin from Stehekin and find route up east ridge or something. I've only looked at it from Buckner and Goode, but never been on it. [ 06-27-2002, 02:12 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Day 1: We went in from just below Rainy pass. Be warned that is a solar parking lot! 10 miles down bridge creek, 5 miles up N. Fork Bridge creek. We bivied above initial cliff bands on the snow in a tree well. Day 2: climbed and returned via Storm King col back to camp. Moved camp down to Grizzly Creek camp. Day 3: Hiked out. If you want to see all the photos, go to: http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b301e9a7c4d5 It was an awesome adventure and one of the best climbs I've ever done!

DO NOT SKI NUDE! I was at Tuckerman Ravine in the late 70's and saw 2 dudes try to ski the headwall nude. One fell and did the big slide for life on steep corn snow. He was a bloody mess and had to be evacuated. Stupid!

For those who commented on my post: Ok, maybe this guy from Pennsyvania was not a yahoo and yes I agree even experienced climbers can take a rock to the head as well. So my post was not timely in context. But I will still maintain the Liberty Ridge has been the scene of many accidents and I will attribute many of them to the fact that inexperienced climbers are getting over their head on this route. In a way, maybe it's good that Rainier has been in the public eye with some deaths and accidents. Maybe some of these climbers will re-assess their abilities before tackling such a serious route on a serious mountain. I'm willing to bet the accident rate doubled on Liberty Ridge after the publication of "50 Classic Climbs"! Also, my post did not attempt to say I was more "qualified" than the kid from Pennsyvania. But now that you mention it, I probably am. Maybe that guy makes climbing trips to Washington every year but maybe this was his first time on Rainier. I moved to Washington (from Maine/Utah) because this IS the best place to get "qualified". [ 06-26-2002, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

1,000 m = approx 3,330 ft. I recall reading a story about a WWII gunner who fell 10,000 ft. and lived! Landed in a big snowy fir tree with lots more snow on the ground. I wonder what the record is???