David_Parker

Is thre Access Fund involved? My friend Jason works there (attorney). Jason@accessfund.org or 1-888-863-6237. Maybe they can help!

One "advantage"I noticed last year in Banff was that you can switch tools from one hand to the other easily. You can grab one tool with both hands and then end up moving one tool to a new placement and grabbing it with the other hand. Also, when clipping pro, I noticed one guy just rested the tool over his shoulder, completely freeing up his hand to deal with the pro or clipping a bolt. No dangling and trying to re-grab problems. For you "ice climbing is aid" freaks, I'll argue leashless is just as much aid because it makes it easier than using leashes in many ways!

They pretty much all offer the same stuff: free rotation, fix flat, etc except it isn't realy free. You pay up front when you buy the tires; it;s either a line item or built into the cost. Discount Tire works for me. Check consumer reports.

quote: Originally posted by ehmmic: Crazyjz -Just because he likes to push the limit, why does that make him crazy or irresponsible? Climbing is dangerous. Particularly the stuff he does. If he accepts the risks, what's wrong with it. Michelle, until you have a child of your own, you'll never know. Easy to sympathize, impossible to empathize.

How about a little more info. Did you make it all the way to the base of the climb? What made you turn back? Inquiring minds want to know!

I think they'll be climbing before us!

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Hey Dave - How's come you're ready to drive 6 hours to Mazama, but 5 hours to Pemberton is too far? You got something against Canada? I'm not usually willing to do the Mazama thing in winter (6 hrs), but if you make it to Pemberton in 5, you must have some kind of sports car and guaranteed clear roads! Canada ROCKS for skiing and ice climbing and beer and chicks and sea kayaking and smoking the kind and..... [ 10-23-2002, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: Name the date, D. P. and we will be there. Maybe Presidents day weekend? Mazama is a 6 hour drive when HWY 20 is closed and the roads are good. I don't mind camping in the snow. When the road opens in the spring, unless we get a couple snowmobiles to drag our asses up the road from that side. Then I'd consider mid-winter.

I kill cougars with my buck Knife! http://espn.go.com/outdoors/conservation/s/c_fea_cougar_attack_BC.html http://www.news24.com/News24/World/Americas/0,1113,2-10-33_1239894,00.html [ 10-23-2002, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

quote: Originally posted by Beck: At last nights' pub club, some good options were raised about a ski party- A great suggestion was a spring highway 20 party down on the east side, sounds like the camping/parking/skiing are going to be right there, also the weather/daylight would be in our greater favor. I got that one totally covered. Cabin in Mazama, 3 double beds, big deck and lots of room for tents. Outhouse too. It helps if the snow is gone on the valley floor though.

quote: Originally posted by dbb: DP- get rid of that alpine bod while you can still have children!! I already have a kid and don't plan on any more so no worries!

Did BD change the buckle? It's got to be easy with cold fingers!

I'm friggin sick of my BD alpine bod harness. The buckle sucks and I want some thing with a belay loop, good for everything including ice climbing. What's good and best place to buy it?

I guess I'm so old school I have about 8 different ice axes I can choose from 'cause I don't sell them when I get new ones. I keep them for friends or for just being able to choose depending on the climb. I pretty much save my cobra's for water ice and I love 'em. I thought I was cheating when I first started using them. For Alpine I have my old waterice tools: x-15 brs straight shaft with alaska picks. That's if I need 2 tools. I also have older original x-15 (blue fiberglass) One is a mutant that's 57.5 cm which works great with a classic pick. I have mini grivel for second tool where I know I might not really need it much. I understand the affordable thing, but the older tools that work for alpine should be pretty darn cheap second hand. Saves wear and tear on the expensive ones too and you won't be bummed if you accidently drop one down the mountain side. Also, I don't like switching picks and leashes around. What I like for alpine isn't the same for water ice. Just grab 'em and go!

It's pretty simple guys. You should have two sets of tools. One for alpine with a straight or mildly bent shaft with no pinky thingy and another set for water ice. Do your own thing with the water ice techno leashless pinky knob bullshit if you want, but just remember...ice climbing is more about your feet than the tools!

I have been offered a pair of Atomic Beta TM-22's (190 cm ) for a reasonable price. Anyone skiied these and have feedback.

quote: Originally posted by sisu suomi: "Ice is nice and shall suffice"(B. Sumner) NOT!!!! Robert Frost

Why would I want to tell Scott-no-show where I climbed. If he wants to know, he should have showed up at the rope-up. Afterall, he WAS in the area! What's up with that....was it too smoky for him? Yahoo, my first PAGE TOP! How appropriate! [ 10-22-2002, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Excel makes the lightest poles. I know the reps, but can't really help you other to steer you towards the retailers...try http://mgear.com or just search excel ski poles. They might be spendy though but you'll probably get what you pay for; strong and light.

Broken picks = bad technique

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Hey Curt, is that milk or beer in that cup with a STRAW in it! Drinking stout with a straw can be hazardous to your health. Try it this way next time. [ 10-21-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

A great weekend of beer, food, and errrrr, oh yeah, climbing. Ended up doing Orbit (with Chris W) (Matt P and Tony on the other rope just behind us) for the second rope-up in a row! Got to lead the pitches I missed last year though so it was great to do the route again. Thanks Chris! And Thanks to Dr. Jay for dragging my lame ass around Castle rock on Saturday. Great to see all the new faces; around the "peak" of the party I counted 40 people around the fire! Next year I'll bring an extra chair. I never got to sit in my own! Hope everyone who wanted pancakes got some!

So anyone else interested? I imagine some of this stuff could prove useful for emergency situations. I want to learn because I could see myself doing something moderate like Mt. Cruiser solo.

The best reason to use a figure 8: because if you are near the top of Mr. Natural on GP apron and take a fall and it's clipped on you gear loop and it happens to be between your hip and the rock as you slide about 30 feet (rope stretch) you don't rip the shit out of yourself and actually finish the climb. Try that with an ATC or Gri-Gri!! [ 10-15-2002, 06:37 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

So I think I convinced Wayne to spend one of the days at rope-fest to teach roped solo climbing. Just putting out a "feeler" for interest. Of course He'll need to show up so we can take him up on it. Whatta ya think?