DPS

I was curious about who this Annie Green Springs was so I Googled the name. Turns out it is not the name of a climber but a cheap fortified wine. I guess that makes sense for a route name on one of the Wine Spires. Further Googling indicates the Mary Green Glacier on Bonanza Peak is named after a ladies underwear manufacturer, apparently.

When the shot of Linsey climbing the overhanging serac showed up on the Facebooks I assumed it had been photoshopped it was so stunning.

Nice work!

Stay away from some guy they call 'Sketchy Dan'.

The Coach of UW Rock fame has taken up permanent residence at Index. He lives in a van down by the river. I think if you park near his encampment he would scare any potential thieves away. Bring him a peace offering of tin foil so he can make a new hat.

Let me guess, was it Linsey who did Buckner and Horseshoe CTC?

There were two young men killed this weekend in separate, unrelated accidents. One on Spontaneity Arete, one on Infinite Bliss. I believe both were affiliated with different gyms, not sure if they were both involved in coaching. It is very sad, with the recent fatality at Skaha, that makes three young men who left us too soon over the past couple of weeks.

For what you want to use them for I can't think of an appropriate boot that is lighter than the Trango S. You could do an approach shoe, but for glaciers any larger than say Stuart or Colchuck Glaiers, I would want a real boot with a semi rigid sole.

http://q13fox.com/2014/09/07/video-helicopter-crew-rescues-injured-climber-on-chair-peak/ Anybody know anything about this? Looks like WR possibly.

It's a RCW issue. So it really can't ever "OK with the cops". The reality is cops do whatever the fuck they want, regardless of RCWs. The cop who pulled me over was more interested in my job and who I worked for than the fact my address had been redacted from the registration or even the fact that I had been driving 10 miles per hour over the speed limit in a school zone. No ticket.

I redact the information on my registration for this reason and was pulled over by a cop who just nodded when I explained why the address was redacted.

Excellent point, I've been beating that drum for a while now.

Am I too late to pile on and say it is Ryan Lurie?

I'm going to knock it over.

I've used the 30:30. It works well as a carryover pack and as a summit sack, I've used it for both purposes. My partner and I fit two sleeping bags, two pads, extra clothes, and both pairs of approach shoes and used it as a second's pack. The straps and hipbelt felt plenty supportive. Another pack you may want to look at is the Arc'Teryx Alpha FL 45 pack. http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&category=Packs&model=Alpha-FL-45-Backpack Both have features that annoy me, both lack features that I like to have, but both work fairly well for what you want them to and are pretty durable. I don't get the whole strip off everything just to summit, these type packs are already very light.

Slow down young man, you're making the rest of us look bad.

Great photos, thanks for sharing! I have recommended this outing to many folks and everyone loves it.

Da bears.

I was on Stuart a couple weekends ago. While I did not get eyes on Ingalls, there was very little snow on the ground. I suspect you could get away without an axe.

http://uncyclopedia.wikia.com/wiki/UnNews:Hikers_warned_not_to_fuck_with_Mount_Hood

Nastia has a way of suggesting objectives that have been lingering in the recesses of my mind for years - Ice Cliff Arete is one of those. Alan Kearney has a term for it "Cleaning the skeletons from the closet", and it feels good to get it done after years of thinking about it. She is is my perfect foil; she sees the obvious route where I see only blank rock, where I am weak, she is strong, and she packs delicious sandwiches made with Russian cheese. I'm looking forward to our next trip, this time I will be wearing something other than Stuart Range camouflage so I will actually show up in the photos. Thanks for the climb Nastia. Here's to many more!

Pfhhht! I could climb it faster than 26 hours and 33 minutes.

Very nice. Juan and I saw you and Dave descending the East Ledges from the NR on Forbidden a couple of weeks ago. We said 'hi' but I guess you guys didn't hear.

You're welcome! Fantastic trip, happy it all panned out for you.

There are only a 3-4 5th class pitches. With a 30 meter rope you might have to do a few more or belay in some awkward places, but it would be workable. The reason most folks get benighted is usually due to route finding problems lower on the route or if they belay a bunch of pitches before the WR notch. Get an early start and don't get lost (we had a photo copy from the Beckey guide).