DPS

I did, so that must account for 1/4 of the traffic.

Hi Curt, I can't comment on this particular pack, but I have a similar Metolius haul pack (Sentinal I think?) that is awesome for cragging and hauling on grade IV - V walls. It carries comfortably on approaches and as a bike commuting pack, but I would not want to carry it while actually climbing.

Honestly, if you have done the routes you mentioned, you should be more than ready. I found Price Glacier to be way more difficult, strenuous, and dangerous than Lib Ridge, albeit that was late season. Those other routes are solid as well. I agree with Bronco, do the Emmons so you know the descent and you should be all set. Good luck.

I would not recommend leather boots, might not be warm enough and hard to dry out. Dunno about the ski boots. I personally would opt for plastic/synthetic 6000m boots or warmer for climbing.

I did a Ht Hunter trip in the first weeks of June and a Ruth Gorge trip first weeks of May. I used a +15 degree bag (WM Apache Super DryLoft) both trips and felt it was perfect. My parka on Hunter was an old REI down parka, borrowed from Alex. In the Ruth I used a Wild Things Belay jacket. Both were very adequate.

I hope you have a speedy and full recovery.

11Worth might not have ice, but Snoqualmie Pass had been great this season.

And I thought dogs on Mt St Helens in winter was bad. Poor kitties probably froze their little paws.

That is brilliant.

Come on - it wasn't that bad! I saw you grinning about it! I guess I have to say it was the best skiing day I've had in four years.

I will attest to the lousy skinning/skiing conditions.

I hiked up Mt Si yesterday (Sunday) and saw two climbers on the Haystack climbing the steep gulley\crack on the south face. Conditions looked Scottish, complete with fog, wind, and blowing snow. I'd love to see a trip report and photos.

Some stuff at Alpental like Kiddie Cliff and Bryant Buttress can be top-roped, but I think the season may be over for those.

Not sure about the fall restraint thing other than I would never trust a friction knot to hold a fall, but you can tie a Bachmann knot or a Kliemheist knot with a closed loop.

Wow, very cool.

I'm betting with the good weather, NF Chair Peak is gonna be a mad house this weekend.

The weather is good, conditions are awesome, and I have a free day tomorrow. I'm looking for suggestions for a one day winter alpine climb within a couple hours drive of Seattle. Also, needs to be fairly moderate as I have Petzl Aztars so I can't climb harder than WI 3. I can think of lots of objectives, but most would require too much time driving/approaching. Thoughts?

It was a pleasure gentlemen. I'm pleased you got photos of the icy conditions, it is not often you get to sink 22cm screws into solid ice on Chair Peak!

Maybe this person's: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1118236/Re_TR_Chair_Peak_NE_Buttress_N#Post1118236

Triple Couloirs might still be in condition in early May, if it comes in at all. One to two days for TC, prolly two for SGC, which should still be in. Other gulleys include North Buttress Couloir and NE Couloir on Colchuck Peak, NE Couloir on Argonaut,and NE Couloir on Dragontail. The Ice Cliff Glacier on Mt Stuart may be of interest to you as well. In the Icicle Creek valley in Leavenworth are the 8 Mile and Bridge Creek campgrounds, both are Forest Service. I think there are more campgrounds further up the Icicle as well. Additionally, there are some other non official camping options. Other options include Coleman Headwall and North Ridge of Baker, many options on Rainier, North Face of Shuksan could be good.

You've done it so many times you should change your name to RainierClimber.

Hey Gerrit, I live in Issaquah and would be down to hit up the crag after work or on a soggy weekend some time. FWIW, Alex and I 'discovered' the potential for mixed climbing there years ago when we were working construction together. There were some really poorly placed 1/4" bolts there already, but Alex cleaned up the place and put in reliable anchors. Dan

I have a pair of Marmot Expedition Primaloft mitts. I have yet to use them yet, even after three Alaska Range trips and multiple winter ascents of Rainier. My old Lowe Alpine Primaloft insulated gloves have been plenty warm for my cold weather climbs.

For Rap wall - walk up the Alpental valley to Source Lake and turn left as for Great Scott Bowl/The Tooth. The Rap Wall climbs are on the obvious steep cliff on climber's right shortly after you leave Source Lake.

I guess Rap Wall is what the cool kids are calling it these days.