DPS

What about damage to ropes like sheath damage, core shots, etc? I never expected my partners to compensate me when my ropes have been damaged and it never occurred to me to offer to compensate my partners for damage to their ropes. I will often say we bring my rack and your rope (or vice versa) and if I have to leave my gear behind as a rap anchor or whatever I view that similarly to damage my partner's rope may incur.

That reminds me, I still have a carabiner that belongs to you. What kind? It isn't my other revolver by any chance, is it? That would be coo. No, it is an older bent gate carabiner. The gate is purple.

That reminds me, I still have a carabiner that belongs to you.

Personally, I always offer to pay if my partner's rope/gear gets stuck/lost, but never ask to be repaid if it is my gear/rope that gets lost/stuck. For me, a good partnership is far more valuable than a few dollars for some lost/stuck gear.

Situation A. Loss was due to neglect. Your partner should offer to pay. Situation B. Price of doing business, no one is at fault. Split the cost.

Wow, this trip report had a bit of everything: photos of firey larches, posing pikas, sweeping ridge lines, serene lakes, and pretty girls. It all reminds me why September and early October are my favorite months to climb.

Hi John, I am aware that one can buy a larger hammer and adze, however, that adds $$$$$ to what is already the most expensive tool in its category, does not solve what I consider to be a poor adze design, nor does it address the pick issue. If a larger hammer and shovel shaped adze were an option at the time of the sale (i.e. not an additional expense) I would put up with the inferior picks for what is the most naturally swinging tools I've found.

Cobras are the best swinging tools I've found, but the tiny hammer, ridiculous adze, and picks that are inferior to either Petzl or Grivel's forged designs was enough for me to choose Quarks. I'll try the synthetic cycling tape and report back. I think the added weight might actually be a benefit.

They make synthetic, gel type tape that shouldn't absorb water. I bet a CX type who rides their bike around in muddy circles might be able to weigh in on this.

Hmm, that isn't the name I remember... Wasn't that her name? Dark hair? I definitely remember chatting with her at Smith Rock, maybe I just got the name wrong.

What about cork or synthetic cork road bike handlebar tape? Cork, and presumably the foam they use in synthetic tape, is a fairly decent insulator, it is easy to apply, remove, and reapply. One trick we used was to spray the bars with hair spray to make the tape stick better, yet easy to remove. Just a thought. http://www.coloradocyclist.com/douglas-gel-cork-bar-tape?gclid=CI7lwde6tsECFVFgMgodj1wAeg

Julia is a sweet gal.

Edit: After reading this trip report you mentioned: "In 2001, this thread indicates a party bailed after what seems like the first pitch of the Dike Chimney, finding it very unappealing." That was me and Aidan Haley. Apparently I have not done the traverse via the dike chimney.

Just a few comments. Having done this traverse a few times, including by the dike chimney, I find it one the more enjoyable enchainments and have taken several Cascades neophytes on it who all enjoyed it. I also married a nice Jewish girl. We got married in Scottsdale, AZ where her folks winter. While my bride and soon to be mother in law were making last minute preparations, I grabbed my shoes and harness and headed to Pinnacle Peak state park which boasts clean Joshua Tree like desert granite monzonite cliffs. I walked up to a group of four folks, introduced myself and asked I may join them. They agreed and we spent an enjoyable afternoon climbing the sharpest rock ever and getting to know each other. I mentioned I was visiting from Seattle and was in town to get married on Thursday evening. The husband and wife looked at each other and heartily congratulated me with a 'mazel tov'. We chatted about Seattle, my bride to be (Rachel), and other things. As evening approached and the park was nearing its closing time, we began our short hike to the car. The couple ran into their friend, Maury, and introduced me. "This is our new friend Daniel. He is getting married this Thursday to his finance, Rachel". "Mazel tov" responds my new friend Maury, who proceeds to engage me in conversation as we hike. "Let me ask you Daniel, which movie did you like better, Shindler's List or the Pianist?" Apparently I had accidently discovered the secret handshake of the chosen people. I hope you both enjoy all the great things the Cascades has to offer. And to those of you who are not fortunate enough to have a Jewish mother in law, you don't know what your missing.

Steph Abegg's Website goes into much finer detail and analysis: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/projects/rainierstatistics

Nailed it. What a sad loss. + 1. While our paths had crossed in the mountains (I wondered who the pretty girl mountain guide was), it was through her wonderful trip reports that I got a sense of who she was; in her words, 'splitter!'.

A climbing partner of mine said he "felt like he got away with something" after riding out a tough little storm in a tarp in the Stuart Range. I have quite a bit of faith in these shelters under certain conditions, i.e. base camp type of application.

Pyramid tarps have been used for decades in the mountains, often by guide outfits and schools (e.g. NOLS/Outward Bound). In fact, the center pole has been referred to as a 'chastity pole' because it keeps everything kosher between the inhabitants. I've seen them used at 17k on Denali as cook tents. The only new thing about this one is the fabric, Cuben Fiber which seems to be another flavor of Aramid/Dyneenema/Spectra. A big improvement would be to incorporate large tunnel vents, like those used on Integral Designs tents, to improve air circulation and cut down on condensation.

The sign advertising "Good Food" was exactly half right.

Not sure if folks know, but the young lady in the dress just became the youngest person to complete the Bulger list. A remarkable achievement for someone only 27 years old.

The reviews on STP are all glowing. For $216 it is hard to go wrong, especially with STP's return policy which is the best in the business. I have been shopping with them for almost 25 years and returned a number of items with never a problem. These boots are way sexy too!

"I hesitate to write about soloing the North Face of Chair Peak because it is the most important climb of my life. It has taught me a great deal about climbing and the climbing community. It has taught me that action is more important than posturing. Climbing itself is about action. Life is also about action. Anything else is just window dressing. But, I have to write about it. I hesitate also because any type of writing about climbing is usually fraught with misunderstanding, and elicits questions about motives from the audience. I will try to avoid this by writing this for myself primarily, and for the public secondarily. It seems that it is a rare breed indeed that can write about their own climbs at any length without garnering condemnation from the hoards of arm-chair climbers." -CJB

Nice trip and nice chaise lounge! Looks like you built one for my dog as well.

The rappel anchors on the West Ridge must be new, they were not there earlier in the summer.

I did not realize that. I work with his Daughter, Carly.