DPS

Wild Things Belay Parka is the ticket. $100 and its yours.

You are not going to get many climbing partners around here by blaspheming routes named after Fred Beckey.

Wild Things Belay Parka. Epic W/B fabric, Primaloft One insulation, as warm or warmer than any synthetic parka out there. Nice, athletic cut. As it so happens, I have one I would sell you. Size medium, blue, one small tear on the shoulder - patched with fabric from the manufacturer. I bought it specifically for AK and Rainier in the winter and other cold trips. As Jared said, overkill for most other trips around here.

Marmot in Bellevue is no longer in business.

Alex and I did this variation when we climbed the Kautz and ended up on Pt. Success, which was kind of cool as I have now been on all of the sub summits of Rainier.

I've been reading this article on the bus. Just amazing all the way around. But is it wrong that I have a crush on Carla Firey now?

Tim has been to the Bugs. I recommend the Tetons. Super classic climbs, easy access, huge variety of alpine rock climbs, great lodging at the Climber's Ranch. What's not to like?

Thanks for the responses!

What do folks like for lubricating their cams? I've heard WD40 is not recommended because it attracts dirt, but Triflow gets really gummy and I have to clean them in boiling water to restore the action. What should I be using to maintain the smooth action.

PJs will not in any circumstance allow someone they are rescuing to bring their pack. It is purely punitive although they will make some lame excuse as to throwing off the balance or some such shit.

You have to look for the pants that are marketed as J-burg proof. Those tights you wore definitely were not J'Berg proof. Those lasted all of one trip, correct?

That is disappointing to hear. I had my eye on the Ferosi pant as I just returned a pair of Patagonia Simple Guide Pants that began disintegrating after my first trip in them.

It was a treat climbing with Anastasia whose obvious love of the mountains is infectious. It is hard to feel down about poor weather when climbing with someone like her. She too, is easy. One piece alpine anchors? Not a problem. Rapping off a single nut or Bugaboo piton (after the fat guy carrying the pack raps first with an unweighted backup)? Sure thing. One of the best parts of the trip was reading the summit register. Every name in it was familiar to me. If I did not know that climber personally, then I knew their partner for that trip. I felt that inscribing my name was like joining a secret fraternity of Cascade hard men and women. The East Face variation felt like a 'classy' alternative to the true East Ridge. Very alpine feeling. A great climb with a great partner. Thanks for the good times.

If you eat at their restaurant, you will get gas at no extra cost.

All about the same. Crevasses are pretty big on all the glaciers on Mt. Baker. On the Easton they are big enough to swallow snow machines every now and again.

That is the deal of the century for those ice tools. If I did not already own a pair just like them, I'd pop on it.

If my hobby gave me panic attacks I would find a new hobby. Hobbies are supposed to be fun and relaxing.

Nice to see Juan getting out in the hills again! When we did SGC it was a long walk out, but at least our feet hurt.

How did that work out for you?

Thank you for your response.

I think around 2 oz per person, per day is fairly accurate. So, for an overnight an 8oz canister for a 2 person party. I always plan for 2 extra days of fuel just in case. Some tips with the Pocket Rocket. - 16 oz fuel canisters are a bit lighter than 2 8 oz canisters. - Sleep with the can to keep it warm. - While cooking, set the canister in a dish (Tupperware lid works well) of warm water to improve cold weather performance. - Brunton makes a stove stand that works with the Pocket Rocket that makes it more stable and allows you to use a wind screen. It is worth the weight. The canister is connected by a flexible tube so you can invert the canister to force fuel into the burner in cold weather. - I spent some time tinkering in my garage to improve the Pocket Rocket's efficiency. I reduced fuel consumption and burn time by about 30% with a heat exchanger and a good pot. - I built a simple heat exchanger by crimping an MSR windscreen and then riveting it together. Kind of a poor man's version of the Reactor. - The most efficient pot I found is a one liter, black anodized, aluminum, tall, narrow pot.

Can you comment on how much longer Curtis Ridge might be in shape, assuming the cooler weather we have been experiencing persists?

I didn't see a category that summarizes my approach: When I don't know how deep the water is, I dive in head first.

There was still a couple of feet of snow in the higher bowls and the north side of the east ridge of Ingall's Peak held a fair amount of snow. I would expect there to be snow at the notch on the North Ridge of Stuart, and if you opt to do the gendarme bypass I would expect snowy, wet, and/or verglassed climbing. I did see a trip report for the Serpentine Arete of Dragontail, so north facing rock routes in the Enchantments are getting climbed.

Needs more cowbell. But seriously, incredible.