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I had the same problem so I modified my pair a bit: Get some cordura/nylon/etc, sew or seam seal it into a gauntlet and duct tape/seam seal it onto the wrist part of the glove. This has two advantages: you can make the gauntlet as long as you like (thus avoiding the annoying exposed-wrist syndrome, as well as ice getting in), and two the grippyness of the glove no longer interferes with your leash. The second was a big problem for me when I used the BD twist leash. The vinyloves are great for a few pitches, and ok up to a day long before they're too clammy/wet. They do take an eternity to dry, but if you invert them, they'll dry overnight. I heard of someone making a piece analogous to a ski-boot drier for them too. Just buy several pairs, they're cheap!

The guys who climbed that long route said it was about 2 pitches up to 4+. They said there were a few fixed pins, and that a couple bugaboos would be good for the belay. They also mentioned that the ice pro was pretty poor. Loren and I climbed some ice and one of the new mixed routes just above source lake. Find some photos here...

that would be pretty much never..

I thought it was a clever double meaning also...

Seeing as we were the "strait edge climbing team" (aka the 3:45 am alarm team), we only made it to the bar one of the two nights. We ended up at the pub which has good food as well. However, there aren't open container laws to hamper the post-climb celebration! I've also put some pictures up on my site, if you need more! btw, cleopatras needle was a slush-cicle. The lower pitch wasn't even touching down... But had Jens been there, it wouldn't have mattered much.

from: http://www.viewsfromthetop.com/gallery/pres/jam.html quote: © 1995 Darren Almeida Looking North from the rim of the Great Gulf - Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Madison dominate the view. Wow, they need to come see Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Adams from our point of view.

yep. Last time I checked they had a whole mess of tools and I'm pretty sure there was an x15 adze in there. you could email em to be sure though: info@secondascent.com

quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: friends don't let friends use flash. Flash is great! Designers are not. Flash gives the web potential to be just about anything, very few restrictions. However, such lack of restrictions and style/interface is what can make using it so frustrating. (why did that menu stick it's tounge out at me and dissapear ) Offwidthclimber is right in that using flash is way sexier than plain ol' images. People can have no clue of useability, but can still make stuff that "marketing likes!" There is a not so fine line between what is "usable fine art" and "crap". I was a flash developer for a company that produced online training courses, where we made small, modem friendly animations that conveyed ideas far clearer to Cleutus (learning about forklifts) than text ever could. So there are applications beyond cute/annoying stuff.

Wow, when I looked at his site I wasn't sure if I was looking at the Feathered Friends website or what. Hey, maybe FF can swap pics and put that one on their site instead of the dude at the store in the Down suit!

Go to Safeway. You're looking for "snack bags." They are 2x4" and are coincidently the perfect size for making daily food rations. -on

Via Ferrettas are like jungle-gyms for adults. This one was in Southern France, and included a short climb up a steep spire, a cable bridge over to the next spire, an overhanging traverse into a big ramp on the side of a huge cliff, and an inside-facing-out ladder that surmounted an overhang over a huge cave. The locals looked at us like "stoooopud Americans" for going up in our Tevas. It is a lot of fun though, and you should check em out if you go to Europe.

Ultima Thule Outfitters (Paul Claus) routinely flys people into St. Elias and Logan. You certainly won't find a more experienced pilot (or climber, probably) in the range... It might be a bit pricey to fly in, but that's the reality without the fly-around tourism that exists at Denali, as you certainly already know. here's their address: http://ultimathulelodge.com/index2.htm, but you'll have to email paul to get a quote on specific locations.

you can get citric acid and Magnesium oxide (chalk) at a beer brewing store. Pretty cheap too, seeing as you'll only need a pinch. make sure you use a flavor strong enough to cover up the brown rice syrup. That's why cliff shot doesn't (well, not last time I checked) come in flavors like orange.

quote: computer guys function better when under the influence of mind altering substances. > Werd up to that, gapper tim! Just look at DFA as a prime example. Bwahahaha Just look at Deterministic Finite Automata (DFA)? damn, I am such a nerd.

Bone- I was thinking about this sort of linkup when we headed in to do colchuck's NE butt 2 weeks ago. I think it would totally go without crampons or an axe with the right conditions. The glacier section to get to the base of the NE butt is relatively flat (15 degrees?) and short. Then again, if you brought tennis shoes and some lightweight crampons, you'd probably be better off than with heavier boots and no crampons... I bet you could have a really fun glissde down dragontail's backside (up to july) with a rock in hand.

DP- I just recently replaced my harness, and was looking for a simmilar light-do-it-all harness. I had been eyeing the Arc'terryx Verro for a while (1 oz heavier than the alpine bod). However I didn't like their two seperate leg-loop dropping clips. I went with a knock off of the Verro made by Rock Empire. It was 1/2 the price ($30 US at MEC), has adjustable legloops, nice sized belay loop (small width webbing), and was actually more comfortable to hang in. The only draw back I've found is that the buckles are a little "tight" still. but by all means, get rid of that alpine bod while you can still have children!!

quote: p.s. I highly suggest that you buy some ice tools and try this as your first route of the season. "... it was like having sex with death." yeah, it's only 4+!

quote: I'll give you 25$ for your haulbag... Damn, that is really burning a hole in your pocket, eh lammy?

quote: Wait -- I thought the beer was at 7 and show at 8. Is this incorrect? That's what I saw...

Another reason to go with slung hexes is: If you're putting them in a flared crack you can clove hitch the back strand of the cord so that the thing is loaded on the more secure side. This assumes that you've jammed the knot up against one of the holes. I don't know what you'd do with a wire. (Maybe that's what the capt. meant by extra slings??) I have a couple of the WC curved hexes. I love 'em way more than a standard hex, even though I don't use them much anymore...

quote: Are you kidding? Those are some of the worst turns I've seen for a ski video, let alone for some "expert" skiers Those would be my turns. ... and don't ever let someone tell you that skiing on 404's in plastic climbing boots will hold you back. the proof is in the puddin'!

DavidW- Nice work on Westward Ho!, you guys really put in some work (and $). Makes the last half of descending down the West slabs a dreamy walk in the park.

Fun route! Here are some pictures ...

quote: I recall recently getting a little taste of some strawberry GU from a buddy, just enough to moisten my whistle, so to speak. This was out in the woods where food actually tastes better than it is. He said, "what do you think of it?" To which I replied, "ewww, tastes like artificiaaly flavored...spunk." Rather reluctantly, he finished the packet of, well, whatever, and the topic did not come up again. That is so soft porn.