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We stopped at the begining of the low angle madness too. I liked p11, but it seemed like you could deck into that little tree if you fell at the second clip. Mattp? anyone? know why Weiland/Steve hasn't released a topo or "finished" the approach as it was?

he must teach about and phabitude.

Isn't royal columns closed for birds right now?

From what I've heard, they send you a bank check that passes your bank. You then send them the $1000 or whatever, and then two weeks later the bank check gets returned and you're screwed... you can search around for details on google.

Oops, I took off too much!

Ok, speaking of knee pain. I've been having this pain in a similar place, sharp and below the knee cap. It only occurs though when I'm going up hill, and especially when I'm skinning on skis. It starts after about 5 miles/couple hours. The pain really comes when I lift the foot up, so the knee is kind of free to flop around a bit. The pain goes away by the next day, but will retrun if I keep going uphill. Oddly enough, it doesn't hurt it pounding back down hill. it does a little, but not at all in the same way.... I plan to see a PT, but has anyone had this problem too?

It will be debated for years whether his near ascent of the V4 would have been on-site, or pink-point, as he down climbed but stayed on the wall. I guess we'll never know

I think there's a big difference, namely the carabiners. eX: go out and buy your favorite biner and build your own. Usually save $$ (especially w/ sales) and get exactly what you want. Just learn what you like to clip, as the rope side biner is the most important. For instance, neutrinos are light, but are a bitch to clip the rope into. I'm a big fan of the BD Hotwire, and the bent gate Petzl spirit. A key-lock on the piece/bolt end will make it easier to get into and out of some bolts&chains (don't use bd ovals!)

Nice job Loren! Way to get after it!

Well, we brought the skis to the trailhead Sloth That was a fun weekend! I was really surprised how easy it was to get back in there. Probably not too much harder than going into the enchantments from the icicle, but with less elevation gain. We were able to drive to within a mile of the M.F./Dutch miller gap trailhead where a big tree is laying in the road. We biked in that mile or so. some pictures:

Well, unless you want to ski absolute slop in the afternoon, you need a reasonably early start. It's also most of the way to Portland, so that makes for a early morning from seattle. You can however have Jack's leave you a permit in their "Lock box" (wouldn't gore be proud?) to pickup after hours (after 10pm).

HA! Yes I do know, we went that way last weekend. There is continuous snow about .25 miles up road (81) from the turnoff of 83. It added about 4-5 miles of road skinning to our day (just to get to the bivouac). We skied out the Sno Park and hitched a ride back to our car (thanks guys!). No need for a permit at the sno-park now, says the Ranger station.

Actually the site is using a HTML redirect, not flash. It is true though that the redirect is faster than your back button skills Matt!

If you use the “print book” button the topos will look crappy (my experience); just print them out from the individual PDFs and they should look quite nice. This is true. to get the topos into the "whole book" pdf, they needed to be shrunk down a bit. However, if you print each topo out individually, you have the full 11" x 22" (or so) resolution available. the PDF printer will automatically condense this into 8x10 for you, and will be razor sharp even on a lame printer like mine! What do people think about the digital format? Would you be willing to pay more for a CD coupled with a printed and bound version (say, one small enough to take to the crag)? Do the CD features (color images and limitless-topo reproducing, lower overall cost) add enough value to the product to make the CD aspect worth it? here's the website: http://www.darringtonrock.com/ either way, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Nice job Dave!

Actually, it looks like a pretty much strait shot. I think that icefall starts around 8000. In the pic, the curtis ridge camp is on the right of the carbon where a tiny little broken section is. Looks like you could just traverse over to the slopes of the ptarmagin. this shot is from mid-June.

I dunno. It seemed really feasable last time I was in the area. I think if you traversed along around 7500, then maybe climbed through the mini icefall on the west side of the Carbon it could go. Anyhow, that's how I've been planning to hit T.R.

"I remember quite clearly, when on the 20th of December I met with... uh, <what does that word say?>, uh..." yeah, I think she should have reviewed her 'speach' a couple more times.

anyone in the market for an expedition fly for their A5 ledge should go. They had about 4 of them for $25 ea.

Climb: Mt. Snoqualmie-Slot Couloir Date of Climb: 4/3/2004 Trip Report: Skied the Slot couloir on Snoqualmie Saturday. Good hiking up the West side in the morning, and compact powder in the couloir. The only sketchy part of the day was "skiing" down the melted out rock slabs below Snow lake Video here... and some pics:

Yep, that view down the NW face caught my attn when I was on the NE ridge. I remember that there were some gullies and ribs on the upper face above the glacier that looked interesting. Probably not the best rock, but it'll all be covered in 5 ft of water ice, right?

I fit moderately tight new, but not immediately painful. Pretty uncomfortable after a 1/2 hour or so. That streched out just right for me. Too bad I climbed two full days in a row on the last new pair. 1.5 years later and my toe nails are *almost* back to normal. Then again, I suck, so take advice w/ a grain of salt.

definitely bring boots this time of year, and maybe a short axe for the steep snow to the top. Last pitch (two weeks ago) had several inches of snow on it. Here's a shot looking down the last pitch. There is probably less snow as it's been really sunny and warm since.

Looks like fun Pax! (now get a job, you're making us all jealous!!!)

you may notice that none of your urls mean anything. you may also notice that posting your own ebay sales here is lame.

Some pics: fun!