dbb

Bone- I was thinking about this sort of linkup when we headed in to do colchuck's NE butt 2 weeks ago. I think it would totally go without crampons or an axe with the right conditions. The glacier section to get to the base of the NE butt is relatively flat (15 degrees?) and short. Then again, if you brought tennis shoes and some lightweight crampons, you'd probably be better off than with heavier boots and no crampons... I bet you could have a really fun glissde down dragontail's backside (up to july) with a rock in hand.

DP- I just recently replaced my harness, and was looking for a simmilar light-do-it-all harness. I had been eyeing the Arc'terryx Verro for a while (1 oz heavier than the alpine bod). However I didn't like their two seperate leg-loop dropping clips. I went with a knock off of the Verro made by Rock Empire. It was 1/2 the price ($30 US at MEC), has adjustable legloops, nice sized belay loop (small width webbing), and was actually more comfortable to hang in. The only draw back I've found is that the buckles are a little "tight" still. but by all means, get rid of that alpine bod while you can still have children!!

quote: p.s. I highly suggest that you buy some ice tools and try this as your first route of the season. "... it was like having sex with death." yeah, it's only 4+!

quote: I'll give you 25$ for your haulbag... Damn, that is really burning a hole in your pocket, eh lammy?

I'm selling my pair of Black Diamond Switchblades. These are fully rigid ice climbing crampons with dual frontpoints. I've used them for the past couple ice seasons and they are still in great shape with only some superficial rust on the bolt heads. They are adjustable to almost any size of boot. $75. you can reach me at dave@alpinedave.com, or reply here. Here they are:

quote: Wait -- I thought the beer was at 7 and show at 8. Is this incorrect? That's what I saw...

Another reason to go with slung hexes is: If you're putting them in a flared crack you can clove hitch the back strand of the cord so that the thing is loaded on the more secure side. This assumes that you've jammed the knot up against one of the holes. I don't know what you'd do with a wire. (Maybe that's what the capt. meant by extra slings??) I have a couple of the WC curved hexes. I love 'em way more than a standard hex, even though I don't use them much anymore...

quote: Are you kidding? Those are some of the worst turns I've seen for a ski video, let alone for some "expert" skiers Those would be my turns. ... and don't ever let someone tell you that skiing on 404's in plastic climbing boots will hold you back. the proof is in the puddin'!

DavidW- Nice work on Westward Ho!, you guys really put in some work (and $). Makes the last half of descending down the West slabs a dreamy walk in the park.

Fun route! Here are some pictures ...

quote: I recall recently getting a little taste of some strawberry GU from a buddy, just enough to moisten my whistle, so to speak. This was out in the woods where food actually tastes better than it is. He said, "what do you think of it?" To which I replied, "ewww, tastes like artificiaaly flavored...spunk." Rather reluctantly, he finished the packet of, well, whatever, and the topic did not come up again. That is so soft porn.

... the big spires are pretty snowed in. Probably for the season, but who knows. We talked to people who said they've climbed 'em in mid-October in shorts.

The main detractor from cheap cams like Robots are that they have a BIG reduction in usable range. They also are not as durable. I say buy your big cams as forged friends: #2, 3, 4. As ppl have said, they're light, cheap ($25-35 at MEC) and bomber. Then drop the cash for Metolious or somthing good for the small stuff. don't buy more than 6 cams to start with... (then start working on your "aid" rack )

TTT- Yep that was us. I was the one draggin' behind How did your one-day push go? Did ya trip on all the RMI "night climbers" on your way up?

A friend did the route a year or so ago and said it was pretty mellow. Mostly 4th or low 5th class. I'd imagine that if you're quick and confident downclimbing that terrain solo then it could make sense as a north side descent. (Though if you're just trying to do the NR w/ a day pack, I'm sure there are better ways...)

Long days on the Central Mowich Face

talked to a ranger yesterday and he said the route was "unbelievably melted out".

we were climbing on the NW face of Slesse (not on route but more towards the West rib), when I pulled on a big flake of rock (7ft tall, foot wide, 6" deep). It rocked, and then I rocketed it seeing as no one else was on the mountain. Down the face it went which started a literal avalanche of debris down the gullies. I think it got a good 100 ft. of air before it hit. sweet! [ 07-17-2002, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: dbb ]

I agree w/ allison, buy the pack! I bet materials (with 1/2 yard minimums) would equate the cost of the alpine attack ($49). Go to Jim's shop and get it today, that's what I did. (great pack BTW) I've sewed quite a few things, but mostly because I couldn't find exactly what I needed or because it was actually cheaper. Replicating good, already cheap gear is probably not worth the time.. my 2 cents..

Climbed Serpentine Arete Tuesday with great route conditions. No water or ice, and snow could be avoided. (Two parties bailed on backbone Monday due to verglass) Pictures and full report on my web page. Go climb up in there before the road closes! Dave [ 07-04-2002, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: dbb ]

the easiest way to descend the west ridge (if there is no snow on the NW face) is to rapp down onto the NW face to about the level of the notch. Then walk the 3rd class ledges back. You could also downclimb the west ridge which would be good if there isn't a ton of people coming up.

dennis, you forgot to tell 'em to take up SCUBA diving! you're slippin man...

Here's the ridge as of sunday. Looked like a lot of snow on the few pitches below the gendarme.

I was able to buy a little bottle of it at the brew store. Guess it's used in brewing somewhere. I suppose if you couldn't find it you could just squeeze your bison ball over the pot.

Why not make your own GU? It takes a little time before the trip, but if done right, you can make tasty "packages" of GU for 10-15 cents. My favorite homemade flavor is "almond-GU". Worst flavor ever: scotch-GU. Tutorial Here: http://students.washington.edu/dbb/make_gu.html I think Cliff shot and all those that use brown rice syrup are pretty gross because all they do is add heavy flavors to cover up the nasty of the syrup. I also think that adding your own vitamins and aminoacids is probably a little overkill. You can easily get those in natural food forms for a heck of a lot cheaper than you could trying to eat it synthetically.