robertm

sweet. I need to get mine done... I heard Black Diamond will just resling and not clean / lubricate

Nice! Bear is a lot of work... I can only imagine how much worse the "trail" is from when we did it back 10+ years ago!

Amazing photos! Thanks for the inspiration.

Trip: Inspiration Peak - West Ridge Date: 7/29/2015 Trip Report: Climbed Inspiration and McMillan both up their west ridges on Wednesday 7/29. Glaciers are in rough shape -- needed to approach Inspiration from far western (left side) of the glacier. Moat proved to be the crux getting into the gully with much loose and minimal protection. Upper three pitches are spectacular. Wanted to get on the east ridge but large bergschrund and several slots blocked the way. Access appears to be possible by a committing rappel from Mac/Inspiration col. Current view of Terror Glacier - we needed to access from far left edge of photo at 6500' straight across to west ridge. The Money Pitches Looking back at the west ridge gully and route. Crux was accessing the gully from snow finger across moat. Gear Notes: Glacier gear, small rack to 2" & some extra webbing. Approach Notes: Trail in great shape. We took 6 hours to high camp with several breaks.

Anyone been up to Inspiration lately? How does the glacier look? Headed for the East Ridge -- any update would be helpful.

No snow on the ridge and you won't need crampons or Axe to get to lower ridge from Goat Pass but you will have to go down the loose dirt moraine.

Depends what you mean by "in" -- it will go. Two chockstones on the route require some mixed climbing with marginal rock pro -- 5.6 or so. Some mid-waist wallowing interspersed with firm two dagger action. Lovers Lane is mostly drytooling. Summit pitch is dry rock to corniced ridge with two raps down the SE side.

I was up there on March 9th and climbed The Kone -- maybe one of the few winter ascents :-) . We had to stop the low clearance car due to snow about 4 miles from the trailhead up to 3 O'clock rock. (there was about 3 feet of snow on the road) The rock was bare and dry once we got to it... it has been a few weeks so I am sure that you could drive much further in now... maybe to the TH. From what we could see of the road it looked good. There were a couple of smallish trees across the road 3 miles in that could be taken care of with a Ax. All Culverts looked good.

Eric, check your PM(s)

I am leaving Seattle early Sunday -- probably ~5:00 AM and driving up to WA Pass to climb Liberty Bell. Plan is to meet up with the first ascentionist and climb the route. PM me if interested --

Thanks to Hamballs! Ice Axe Found!!

there was plenty of wire there last week with a full lot -- they built two newish bins and it had piles of it along with new fence posts. Thanks for snagging my Ice Axe when you are up there :-)

As I was rushing out of the Kain hut I left my Ice Axe. It is a Air Tech Grivel - Silver with a 4mm perlon red/yellow cord for a leash. It should be on the Ice Axe hooks outside the hut. $50 reward and my gratitude. - Robert

Anyone been lately? How is the snow up there? Same as in the cascades -- which seems about a month behind (i.e. seems like late May / Early June)? Headed up there in a couple of weeks. thanks

Climbed OS and some towers up there on Saturday. It was good to go -- no snow on the descent. Lots of ticks and goats to keep you company.