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dbb

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Everything posted by dbb

  1. Hey, don't diss the toyota 4x4 wagon. They rock!! I've thought about this lately, esp. with the closing of the middle fork road. The problem I guess is going to be lifting whatever you have up and over the trees/gates/etc, as well as rough riding with a pack on. Anyone know if two people could pretty easily lift a dirt bike over a log? I'm guessing Dustin is talking about those scooters that are like a skate board with handles. I'm not sure that those would cut it on most closed roads.. if they did though, it would be sweet. They would be small (only one small import compact needed Dru) and light too. hmmm...
  2. GSM coverage in the cascades, in my experience, sucks. Even with great line of sight towards towers it won't connect. Then again, if you only climb at Alpental, you'll be fine.
  3. Best Post ever cracked! That close up two picture sequence with the orange shirt looks sic!!!!!
  4. Bloody Fist .9, Teiton. Nice OW/fist, not nearly as bad as the name implies.
  5. Maybe you'll be able to drive to the top and belay off yer bumper. See, fires are good for the ... uhh, ecosystem.
  6. Don't forget Nunatak
  7. WORD Jon, I couldn't believe it when I found that place!
  8. Who will be the first to develop all these SICK new boulder problems??? They should add WARNING: New boulders may be unstable... bring extra pads and spotters
  9. I thought this thread was going to be all touchy-feely Dru. An impersonal poll may be alienating your metrosexual base group (like cracked the erectionist)!!!
  10. I haven't done the route ('cept the W. Ridge), but one thing I'd advise is that with a larger rack you'll be able to simuclimb much greater distances between belays. This is assuming that you're planning on roping up for most of it though. One way to lighten the rack in that area though is to bring lots of doubles for slinging horns.
  11. I almost lost a rope on that rapp once. Skinny line wrapped around one of those little tree trunks. I'll never do that rapp with doubles again. Sorry to hear about the ankle, way to self rescue!
  12. I think the only difference here is going to be longevity. If he puts in Rawl Split drive 1/4" button heads, they're rated to 1200 lbs--plenty to catch any bolt ladder fall. Only difference between that and 3/8" is that they'll be rusted out in 10 years and need replacing again, in yet another hole. (No 1/4" stainless is available) In my opinion, that doesn't decrease the adventure factor on a bolt ladder. If this were a rivet or two on a otherwise "natural" aid pitch I would be all for replacing it with 1/4" to preserve the experience of the route. I'm also all for preserving this route's character, but I doubt that fatter bolts on the bolt ladder is going to change it. Ask yourself this: When the pioneer route was rebolted in the mid 90's, would you have rather they put in 1/4"ers (like the original) that would by now start needing replacement?
  13. looks like ya got a knot in yer rope thar 'boy!
  14. Ron Olevsky is a guy who's put up many Zion wall routes. I guess he's trying to cash in on all those religous types using HIS route name: "Prodigal Son"
  15. I really hate it when the hexes hit my balls.
  16. Good thing I have a #11 hex. btw, I'll donate any of my small hexes to you sportos if you're feeling lonely.
  17. The pioneer route/West Face variation to Pioneer route hookup is not the same as the West face "aid" route. http://www.englishengineering.com/dave/adventures/monkeywest/monkey.html
  18. You might also consider making your holds out of fiberglass resin: http://www.alpinedave.com/misc/holds/hold_making.htm That said, looking for rocks that you can just drill a hole in and bolt up would be great. I would just buy/make the rest. As for weight, rocks are a lot heavier than climbing holds. You should be really careful putting a lot of these on overhanging walls as the only support (I'm guessing) is going to be the structure of your garage which was built to be loaded how it is already. Maybe consult an architect?
  19. dbb

    WCC

    I'd say that is because, from the position of the WCC, you weren't asking for it. This seems like what Daryl is doing here, but is there a central person/place we can email/PM our contact info to, instead of just posting "I wannt help"?
  20. Nice job on finally getting that one phil!
  21. it may have been a rockfall induced fall? Sad news indeed.
  22. Totally feasable. Both routes should only take a couple hours up and down, depending on your speed. Liberty bell is ~3 pitches, S arette is mostly scrambling so it goes very quick. You could probably even descend the SW gully on SEWS and be down in no time. I'd say pick the one you want to climb more first. If you have extra time, consider doing the SW Rib of SEWS instead of the S. Arete. It has more and interesting 5th class climbing (including a nice but not too hard 5.8 crack). My guess on the weather is that it'll be in and out. Some sun followed by windy blowing snow. It does get some East side effect, but it doesn't look great on the E side this weekend too. Shouldn't be too big of an issue other than cold hands..
  23. http://www.engrish.com Jon- There is basically no reason why we would ever expect an email from cascadeclimbers.com without asking for it, right?
  24. dbb

    Your avatar?

    clown puncher!
  25. Some info on ALPS: from http://yosemite.epa.gov/water/adopt.nsf/0/7301a51ebae6e44f8525653600527fee?OpenDocument Describe your group's purpose, activities, publications, or accomplishments: To operate exclusively for the purpose of educating and informing its members and the public generally in all matters relating to the protection of the area commonly known as the Alpine Lakes Region in the Cascade mountain range in the State of Washington; and for the purpose of urging the preservation of the natural beauty of that region, its lands, air, and waters, and all its living things; and for the purpose of taking all necessary action to assure that this unique and unspoiled region remains in its natural condition through all the years to come for the ultimate enjoyment of future generations. Number of Volunteers: 250 members We involve ourselves in issues affecting the Alpine Lakes Area in the Cascades Mountains of Washington. General bounds are US 2 on North/Northwest, US 97 on Southeast, I-90 on South, and Mt-Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest boundary on West. Contact Person Information Name: Jim Chapman Street Address: 23321 75th Ave W E-mail Address: jlchap@gte.net City: Edmonds Phone #: 425-774-5047 and from their website (www.alpinelakes.org): For information on ALPS, please contact Rick McGuire at: 206.363.6954 rmcguire@alpinelakes.org
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