dbb

Isn't it the case that all cellphones, even without a carrier can still access the networks to dial 911? I've been thinking about getting a different phone that would be suitable for emergency use in the mountains (my GSM phone won't work in very obvious places like volcanos), but if this worked I could just pick up an old phone off ebay. anyone know?

This is a great feature, and I'm glad to see that companies are listening to climbers and creating new toys. (and not just copying other manufacturers). It looks like the fold out handle will have that same greater leaverage that the 360 has.. definitely a nice feature over the BD's in hard ice.

damn d00d! you should've gotten faster shipping than that!

The two parts of the ice face were not connected back in early august. Getting onto it looked a little dicey (some rock off a finger of snow) but looked doable. Probably in good icy shape by now

Good news, just talked to the ranger station and they said that they're sending out a crew today to assess the damage and begin repairing the road.

I dunno. There seemed to be a need for them to continue to provide access to the mining claims up the road, so they hopefully will repair it? Not sure what Hell Hill is. maybe the hill right after the turnoff? I'd imagine what washed out was that raging little creek not too far past garfield.

Nice one Dru! Ken, that rocks! I hope it works this w/e. Is that the pomme d'or? you're backclipped I think I've seen a picture of that car before... hmmm, I can't remember where: Nice parking spot

I heard that there's a "big washout" past the Taylor River Gate making road impassable to continue to Dingford Creek. The FS has also been improving the road up to Dingford Creek in line with the proposed closure. This is a big loss

So you're going? Nice Ken! You're killing me though! Is that 3rd pic (of the first 3) from out east? mmm, frozen grass. Ice season here we come!

Definitely go for a clearance shaft tool. In Coastal ice you'll use that clearance a LOT. You've got the power and the hand size to swing a heavy headed tool, so the cobra might be a good choice too (quarks are light). Same sized grip as the prophets more or less. People love the cobra. Very damp like the prophets too, but not much clearance. If you're choosing between the two grivels, I'd say definitely the tech wing. I saw though that grivel is coming out with a new techwing looking thing. maybe you can get em on clearance.. I'm guessing the Viper may be too small of grip for you, but maybe not. Regardless of the grade that you're climbing, I've found that climbing with good tools is more fun.You can use all the tools (minus any full pinky wrappers) on any alpine route too. D

just get costco prints made. Way better quality, way cheaper

Bwuhahahah, that is so damn funny. Great TR! Reminds me of when I stepped out of the car bare foot at a TH and stepped right into a melted out turd.

Funny, a friend and I were talking about this exact thing yesterday. He'd been up there one or two years ago and thought that, considering the trail's position right along the river bank and already eroding, a fair amount of it would have been washed out last fall. Pure speculation though...

Great story! Laurin the Toolette. That licence plate trick is pretty extreme, but is actually pretty clever. Are you sure about it being ok to have a vehicle that is not licenced parked off private property? If you piss 'em of good enough, you might just come back to an impound notice. Anyone know about this? Also jdog, just call them and explain that you already have a pass and would be happy to send them a photocopy. The year long pass is marked w/ the date/year so it should be obvious that you had it when you were ticketed.

I've seen a lot of the Ergos taped up that way with grip tape above the handle. Seems like going all the way up to the head would be a good thing. I probably wouldn't add any to the handle as it would only increase the diameter. What tools you using?

sorry to hear about your property burning. A guy I know was missed by the icicle fire by 1 mile. nice picture at least! I always suspected that climbing at peshastin is like climbing in hell...

Ken- The routes at Royal columns that gary mentions are good. There are other good routes there too, and they're all 5 feet apart. There are some spectacular 5.4s there too. very fun. Also check out Ed's Jam at the Bend, very nice 5.8 hand crack. Plenty o harder cracks right next door too.

any word on the modified quark w/ pinky rest?

Nice to meet you guys, nolanr. I was in the 2nd party to come up the N. ridge. Too bad about your friends camera. That biner probably made up for it though. justin- I've got a pic of the S. Face from Sunday if you want it.

Wow. Nice Colin!

I'd second the NE Ridge of Black. That fits the bill perfectly. Really good views into Bridge creek too. Other options: Vesper Peak, North Face Sharkfin Tower Sahale SEWS S. Arete

see how nonchalantly he flips Dru off. It just comes so easily for some...

Link to the guide's web page page. You can order it from the above webpage or find the it at Feathered Friends, Pro Mountain Sports, or Marmot. There's a sample of a locator image on that page that also details Dark Rhythm, The West Buttress, and Westward Ho! (left to right). Most routes are good ones equipped with chain belays (though no chains on W. Butt) so head up and explore. If you don't go to the summit on any of the routes you can rap down and do another like Westward Ho! or the W. Butt. Exfo Dome

You know the holes in the lobes of a #4 are big enough to clip in to....

I say go fer it