dbb

couldn't really see much up there Saturday due to clouds/snow, but the one time it opened up the East side of Denny (that big cliff) looked way plastered with snow. Things have been cold at the pass, but not cold enough for substantial waterice to form. Lots of icicles... I bet that the NF & NEB of Chair, and S/E routes on Guye will be in climable shape once this snow firms up. Who knows though, that could be until the christmas inversion!

But doing something hard and big can be done unsupported. Look at the 1984 Polish-American Expd. to everest. They (mostly) climbed a hard new route and put the whole thing on for under 50K. It can be done, but I bet that hiring people to schlep your stuff to the Mtn. and then climbing it by yourselves would be the best option. (and the most likely considering we're not all Tom Brokaw or Quokka enabled)...

I think that the hoards really only apply to top ropeable climbs and climbs under WI4. If this is actually the case then you'd only really want to keep your moderatly hard routes a secret. This is kind of pointless because you're probably on to better and bigger things. as far as conditions go, POST EM! It's not as if Alpental ice is your secret project! my 2c [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: dbb ]

Along your thread freeclimb, While we were up in the St. Elias this summer, the infamous Paul Claus told us a story on a peak of which we'd made the 2nd ascent. On the first ascent Paul had brought along a parapont to fly off the summit cliffs with. When they got to the top his partners convinced him out of it, and he just went down with them to fly on some glacial hills down low. When he took off down low, he got about 10 ft off the ground before the thing shook, and then totally collapsed. Aparently some knots had been left in the cord from when they had displayed it at some show. This happened 15 years ago and his wife still remembered it. yikes!

quote: Hey Lambone, be more specific about climbing conditions on the Coleman Icefall. Were you on seracs or water ice. It would definitely be worth it if you're itiching to swing your tools, the road is drivable to the TH, and you don't need anything but shoes (and ski poles) to walk in. But like phil said, the ice was really brittle, and the 3-4" of snow that covered things made walking around a bit dicey. You never quite knew if the floor was solid ice or holes. Though once you find a safe area, wipe off the snow, and pick off the buldges, it is quite nice.

Well, there is what happened to MEC you know...

I agree with pms, I use a small 3" sewn loop slid onto the harness into the back for a full strength trail loop. Simply secure it with a rubber band, leaving enough loop to clip into. I haven't noticed that it pushes on my butt any more than the droppable legloops fast-ex buckle...

I've used everything from OR mitts (suck!) to the Vinylove-baby gloves, and I have to agree with freeclimb. They rock. Dextarity is amazing--no futzing around with screws or biners. the warmth is there too, but I find my fingers getting cold at belays or when busting through deep snow. The one thing I don't like about them is their gauntlet length. But not a problem for I sewed my own cordura gauntlet and duct-taped/seamgripped them onto the glove. This has worked great for two reasons: 1) my wrists are never exposed and 2) the rubbery glove part is covered so it doesn't get all snagged up in my leashes while exiting/entering/twisting. I can put up the pattern if anyone is interested... As free climb said, these gloves are a pain to dry out. You can invert them pretty easily if you push the fingers in, or better yet, just buy a couple pairs! Size Large seems to work for me. For colder days, or many pitches I'd bring gloves with removable liners. Bring lots of liners because they're going to get soaked (but lots of Manzella ones) One other viable option may be to buy the vinylove gloves without the fleecy lining. Then you could stick your own removable fleece gloves in and climb all day with a little more warmth. [ 11-14-2001: Message edited by: dbb ]

I know about the ski gear, they also sold out of all their avie beacons too. Not to mention that they don't carry the BD Black prophets anymore either. I wonder if this is because the companies hate them so much that they wont resupply them. Maybe they just bought a ton of inventory and are having a good time of it while they can. At least they will always have those killer deals on Grivel stuff!

sorry, I think he turns 79 this Feb.

5,477 ft (or about 913 fathoms for those of you in jolly old E)

Whoa, who needs pullups for ice training! Simply do reps of 104 spray posts about garbage in under 24 hours and you'll be cruising up WI 7 on your first ice of the season!

When I was looking for silverettas Jim's shop in the U-district had em.

Dru, correct me if I'm wrong but.. Mug's N Jugs is a pretty climber friendly bar, or so I've found at least. Aparently the owner/manager is the guy who made the first ascent of Honeyman falls. I think they carried more than Canadian too (don't quote me on this!) I also had one of those experiences, like your Rodchester, at the Ryenodls. The the natives oogled us to our table, oogled us while we drank our alcoholic 7-up (Canadian). Needless to say we left as well.

besides, I'm sure many people without toes have climbed everest.

There must be something wrong with my add function: int PinkMoney::add(int i, int j) { return (i + j)*REALMONEY%7} help, what's wrong phil?!@?

I usually make about 6-7 packets worth in one of those collagen tubes. You could make a L of it if you were THAT FREAKIN' EXTREME, but I wouldn't know about that. One word of caution though, don't eat your old homemade-GU! I had a little squirt of 2-week old stuff that was still in my pack while aid climbing the other week and totally regretted it. Sick for two days! ... I think we need a puking smilie-face.

The one problem with the friend-shipping idea is that you still get reamed with the 14% tax (7.5 regular, and 7.5 GST (?)). You can get that back at the border crossing duty up to a certain amount. I'd say just go up to squamish or lilloet and make a trip to MEC out of it.

Finally got my act together and setup a permanent address for my website: www.alpinedave.com Look here for new ice this winter! <shhh>

yeah, and if you climb in lilloet a lot, you get a can or FREE GREASE poured all over them thar eggs-n-bacon!

you can check the biner and make sure it is strait up and down, but that doesn't mean it won't be cross loaded with a load. My guess is that most that clip through both leg loops and harness leave the gate of the biner facing out. It's easier then to clip/unclip the device. however, most falls pull on the biner at a 45 to 80 degree angle away from the body. This isn't loading the carabiner along the spine, and thus is compromising it's strength. In theory at least... in reality, a 7 kN strength-for-cross-loading locking biner should probably suffice for most actual belay situations. One other plus for the belay loop is that it is easier to see that both strands are clipped when setting up before a rapp.

I have recently taken up belaying from the loop because it is WAY easier to get the biner open, and I know that the biner wont be cross loaded with a fall. If you don't like the "one point" thing (which I tend to subscribe to as well), tie a small loop of 7/16"s webbing through the same path as the loop. That way you've got the 20+kN of the loop, and a good 15kN in a sling. I climbed with my harness rigged this way for quite a while, and didn't find that it got in the way. Just make sure to tie it a little smaller than the belay loop so that it will fit inside. The only problem I've noticed with rappelling from the belay loop is that it turns my tuber the wrong direction. i.e. towards/away from me, instead of left/right. This is kind of minor though.. Dave

Carolyn- I would vote for Koflach plastics. MN can get way cold, and there isn't anything to climb there except steep ice (when it's cold at least). Though you shouldn't kid your self into believing that a good steep ice boot will make for a good trail walking boot. The Koflachs come close though, with the afore-mentioned soft plastic (actually 3 different plastics) The best deal with koflachs are that you can buy them on Barrabes.com for waaaaaay cheaper than anywhere around here. Last time I looked: Degres - $99 Vertical - $160 (This is what I use for ice, and they're excellent) Acrtis Exp - $190 just go into your local REI, fit your foot out to any Koflach boot, and then order away! (note that the artic expd's have a larger outter boot relative to the other boots by about 1 or 1/2 a size)

go there now!

[This message has been edited by dbb (edited 10-15-2001).]