
dbb
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Everything posted by dbb
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Nice job getting that thing done!
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does anyone know if Mr. Strong sent his project there on Sunday?
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I look like I just stuck my hand into something wet... oh wait, I did! you thought the approach ramp to GM was dry? Man, I'd hate to see that thing "wet"! Anyone have tips for getting past the downsloping moss? the "10c" direct approach looks better than the "3rd class"
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Hey, he didn't lead it! you can see the top rope!
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[TR] - Lillooet (Synchronicity, et al) 2/8/2004
dbb replied to Alpinfox's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Daaaaaamn, those old darts folks never stop partyin'. Doddie is a freakin' animal Here's some more pics: Alpinefox making a half nude ascent of honeyman's p2 Ken bouldering Alpinefox on Synchro Alpineschotch climbing the final pitch on Synchro -
Yeah, if I had wanted a cold shower saturday, we could have just spent the night at Honeyman's.
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From last saturday (sorry 'bout the bad pic), but the last pitch looked almost gone. The rest of the upper tier was there though. The telemetry for tumwater shows that it's been consistantly around 20*F for the past several days so who knows...
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I think now a (better?) way to get to SC wall is to go over Squire Pass on the 8-mile trail (approach to 3-oclock rock). Takes a few hours so I hear...
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Freakin' FINALLY! SHIT!
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Another Day at the Office area (on the cat track below Blackcomb glacier) is a great place with a couple of moderate lines. For lift served ice, buy a (cheaper) x-country permit.
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I'll sell ya mine for $50
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[TR] Hubba Hubba, Leavenworth- Central Flow 1/25/2004
dbb replied to goatboy's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
heh, isn't it great to forget things? Especially when you have that reflex to look down when you dislodge a dinner plate and it smacks you right on the head. I find that when I forget my helmet, wearing a hat gives me that same sense of security -
[TR] Hubba Hubba, Leavenworth- Central Flow 1/25/2004
dbb replied to goatboy's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
another pic, by DW -
[TR] Hubba Hubba, Leavenworth- Central Flow 1/25/2004
dbb replied to goatboy's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Climbed HH today, still in pretty good shape, though there is significantly more wet rock showing on the 2nd pitch than in the above photo. Wanted to climb at the mtneer creek area but it was all melting/falling down. notice the glide crack? Always a good sign also, got a good look at Drury in the morning. The top pitch is just running water now, though the bottom 1/2 looked "in". My guess is that it would be pretty sun rotted. -
It's funny how that is an inevitable invention, but for a climber who isn't solid at the grade. If you can't hang on long enough to crank in a nice sharp screw with an express widget, should you really be leading that climb? I suppose one could argue that even for a competent leader, you could put more screws in with less effort... but where's the "fun" in that?
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[TR] Strobach- Sad Ce'bu and Sudden Change of Plan 1/27/2004
dbb replied to Alex's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
It's not so bad on smooth or groomed roads, but the roads where the 'bilers really rip it up get these wave trains that are terrible for skiing... that is, unless you're into miles of horizontal ski jumps. It's nicer too if you put your pack in a sled. Still though, it ends up being pretty hard on the knees... HW 20: -
Oh noooooo! Where's the BEEF now??
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Fun climbs, but most are pretty short (from 2000): we found a log crossing to get across the creek too.
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*shrug*... what a man does in his own basement is well... err, nevermind. The holds are plenty strong though (I've been climbing and dry tooling on them for ~1.5 years), and because my home wall doesn't see the usage of a climbing gym, the texture hasn't changed. Also, you can make cheap and easy jibbs with kids plastic lollypop molds. Just drill holes with a smaller bit and then countersink with a 3/8" for the screw head. Be carefull though, the lollypop gild might come after you for copyright infringment!!!
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Here's the result of my experiences with making my own climbing holds. Check it out: Make yer own holds...
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You are right. I recently read a BMC helmet study where they measured the impact force levied upon your head between different types of helmets. Those with a good suspension system like the Ecrin Roc or Eldrid ones transfered something like 1/4th the force as compared to Petzel meteor type foamies. Just another reason not to wear a glorified bike helmet!
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Met a guy in lillooet two weeks ago who had a brand new halfdome (4 days old) and it cracked in the same spot with about the same dimensions you described. He hadn't taken any falls or tools to the head either.. It was about 0F out, but that's really no excuse for a brand new helmet to crack.
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Was out at banks on saturday... Stuff looked pretty good, but I doubt it'll last long in these temps. h2o2 agent orange (?) Zenith Trotsky's folly Wow, two hats off to whoever lead the cable on sunday. That thing looked WAY burly!