
dbb
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Everything posted by dbb
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Nice job guys! Sportin' the old school hummingbird no less. Let's hope for more icccccccce!
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Awesome deal on the G10's. I've used these as my main mountaineering crampon for ~4 years. Light, steel, climb ice well, strap on tennis shoes.. nice for $40. http://www.summithaus.com/detail.asp?p=431&c=New+and+Used+Sale&cat=211&rootid=undefined&root=undefined
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watch out republican girl! That liberal-boy in the background is commin' at cha with his fist!!!
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You'd really have to watch where that thing is pointin' when rappelling with one of those! Thanks for the info, sounds like they could use a little refinement. I've heard really good things about the DMM as well, they just seem hard to find?
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Anybody tried these? Looks like a very cool design, the hanger swivels and lets you clip in before the placement is done.
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I agree with matt and marylou's above posts. The event happened, the impact is there, and we should make it known that we are contributing to the clean up because we care for the place. I think an organized cleanup event would reflect well upon our community, and I’d be happy to organize it. What we need to realize is that Exfoliation dome is not ours and the Forest Service deemed that an adventure race here was an acceptable use of the land. Whether or not we agree with that, making our relationship with the FS in Darrington worse is not going to help us in the future. And the future is what is important. I’ve been in contact with the rigger for the job, and from what I knew of his prior reputation he is exceptionally good at what he does. These people are not the enemy; they were doing their job, and meeting (my guess) the stipulations of the permit that the FS granted them. Let me note too that the local climbers who met these people, met them at the very beginning of a two-day cleanup effort, and formed their impressions then. I’m not saying that the place is clean and everything was done perfectly, but it would behoove us to go up and see firsthand before we really go making an ass of ourselves. They invite us to inspect their work, and we will. The following are the details from the rigger. If you have further questions for them, you can direct them through me (post, PM, or email in profile). There were two styles of bolts placed on the rig: 1. Expansion Bolts 2. Small rivets for securing edge protection. The expansion bolts were placed in such a manner that the hole drilled was much deeper than the bolt itself. The bolts we purchased were removable. The removal was made by tapping the stud into the hole (once the nut and hangar were removed) thereby causing the expansion seal to be broken. At that point we used a small 'cat's claw' tool to pull them out and then we backfilled the holes with granite. The rivets were 1/4 inch studs that we placed in partially drilled holes so that they were quite simple to remove due to the fact they were only inserted around 1/2 way (for edge protection only). There were a handful of expansion bolts that we were unable to remove without excessively scarring the rock (every single rivet was removed) and we chose instead to push them down into the hole and cap them with granite. That exact count I do not have, but it was not very many. We did not remove any of the existing bolts that we came across and there are dozens up there on the West face. As far as waste management, our staff used plastic buckets with plastic sacks to create small commodes at three different locations. We flew out our waste via helicopter sling load. The racers used their own waste management practices (I believe Wag Bags) and I would refer that back to Dan as to what they were instructed on for that section of the course. Staff-wise, we left no human waste. Following the derig of ropes and anchors, we dismantled bivy sites, back-cleaned all flagging tape and did thorough garbage sweeps for candy wrappers and anything else that may have been accidentally discarded. Our staff was comprised of climbers, guides and riggers. We all use the backcountry for recreational as well as professional pursuits. We also all embrace the attitude that you should make every possible attempt to leave a place with as little impact as is possible. I feel that we represented Subaru Primal Quest and ourselves well in that regard. I would like to think that the local climbers and more importantly, the USFS, would feel the same if they went up to inspect the site. I am not claiming that we got every last piece of debris up on that hill, but every effort was made to do that and I know that we got a vast majority.
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I think that we need to have a *single* positive contact person with the Darrington district rangers so that we can assure that things were done up there to the letter of the law. It may very well have been, and this still is the result, but that would be life. The thing we don't want to do is ostrasize ourselves as a group that can not handle these issues in a pro manor.
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I dunno about filing down that point in the upper left. I reshaped that once (BD Stinger pick) to where there was more of a smooth curve from point of pick to top of pick and it seemed to shatter ice even more than before... Like ken said though, don't file 'em up razor sharp for each usage b/c you'll just end up tacoing over the edge first swing.
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They are not gone. They are an organization (LLC) that is responsible for cleaning up their course. How is this different from the guy who leaves his refridgerator along the side of the clear creek road? I agree that we need to discuss our intended outcome. Informing future races that such behaviour is unacceptable is one.
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I think we need to contact some people. They're not done cleaning up yet. That is unbelievable. Primal Quest LLC 16315 Vineyard Blvd. Suite A Morgan Hill, CA 95037 408-779-7969 408-779-7982 FAX Contact Dan Barger at: dan@ecoprimalquest.com Contact Maria Burton at: maria@ecoprimalquest.com
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I've used the Androids for a couple years and really like them. How do these compare? Easy to get off with bulky gloves on?
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saturday, 15 miles on MRNPs North side. beautiful views! Sunday weakly looked for goldbar boulders, found stumps. Then I tried to grope oprah's navel but way too many WASPS nesting downtown there kept me away. Similar situation when I tried to glide up the ski tracks. one more wasp and we're going back to the GM! Finally mellowed after a little cocaine, and finished the day up by freeing the canary from the castle.
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Yep, Rat creek Group. The mole on the left, then the blockhouse, then... can't remember! Don't try the appraoch to these from the old road out of Colchuck Lk TH. It blows! Better to climb up from the icicle for that side, or come in St. Edwards plateau for the standard side (see nelson v2 for the mole)
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Finally some easy info on that ice who is publishing the guide?
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wow, for ~$100/tool I bet they stir some serious shit with the other big cos.
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I've climbed bannana peel that way. It was fucking SIC! new old skewl breaking wave A4++ for sure. some boulderers helped at the base and moved my crash pad around so it can't be considered a fully nude solo ascent.
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wtf, do you think there is some sort of jedi mind logic in spray?
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Summer is bacially over, so get a job. Looking to hire a perl web developer to work at seattle (fremont) based biotech. Our group works on diabetes and Bio related software projects. Database experience, OO perl, and other language experience a plus. shoot me a PM if you're interested. Dave
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I've gotten it before at Bobs Homebrew & Supply (206) 527-9283 2821 NE 55th St Seattle, WA 98105 just north of U village
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Actually, this guide book will likely spread out the crowds b/c so many people just hit "the standards" in lil'wet. But thanks for sharing and keep on trollin!
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that is so rad. Timmy O'Neil is a crazy
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that's what happened the last time I got ravaged by the surf. My bud told me the boat was all the way out of the water I think kayak surfin is a heck of a lot easier than surfing if you know how to roll. you can catch a lot more crashing waves too (if your timing sucks like mine) many people been out to Westport? I've heard that's a popular place for surfers...
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probably in order of interest for me: TF Traverse or north ridge of Forbidden would both be sweet Backbone on Dragontail Northeast Buttress of Colchuck (5.9/10a, long, generally good rock and not often traveled) West Arete of Eldorado Early Morning Spire Bunny face at smith
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Climb: NEUSPEED record, Stuart West Ridge!!!- Date of Climb: 8/30/2004 Trip Report: The Splits (just read the watch!!!) start summit Upon reaching the summit, we both looked to our external unbiased official timer to see if we'd broken the record.... thumbs up dude!!!! you can see the excitement on my face after blasting the c2c record!!! yeah!!!!
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also heard Sless vs. Slesse