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About Alex789

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  • Birthday 09/17/1966


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    bellevue, wa
  1. Nice work! This one is still on my list...
  2. Is there snow/ice on descend from Dragontail? Thanks,
  3. Fantastic! Guys, your trip reports give me great motivation to climb. And great pictures. Which camera did you use?
  4. DPS: First ascend - great! It's a pity that your route is not yet in any guidebook. This picture: https://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/ is all we have.
  5. Wow! Looks much drier than it was when we climbed it:
  6. Looking for partners for the following objectives: North Early Winters Spire - Early Winters Couloir Mount Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Mount Rainier - Mowich Face or Ptarmigan Ridge or if you have other good suggestions Have all gear, experience. Who is interested, better text me: 425-691-9793 Cheers, alex
  7. Technical Mountaineering Partner

    Howdy! Are you seeking technical partners for this period of time only? Do you live in Northwest or visiting, may I ask?
  8. Taylorag06, "Pucker Junkie" - yes, I do want to commit to Ruth trip in Spring 2018. There is an excellent TR: I believe people climb Ham & Eggs in April. If you are interested, let's talk. Email me directly at alexander@gorobets.com or text: 425-691-9793 P.S. Though I've climbed Denali, I don't think I am ready for Cassin.
  9. New forum software!

    TR fixed, thanks! I see you renamed "Trip Reports" to "Route Reports" and moved it to a Forum. Then remove the dysfunctional button "Trip Reports" in the very end of the main page. Still messing "Last 24 hours". Maybe it was moved somewhere?
  10. What hapened with the site?

    What happened with the site? Trip reports button does not work. Where is "last 24 hours"? My trip reports on my profile all screwed up. WTF? Are we all relocating on Facebook?
  11. Hey guys, I am interested in Ruth. Ham & Egss !!! No guide. I don't think it's possible to save on a flight to a glacier. If moving forward with a plan, Email me directly on alexander@gorobets.com Super excited!
  12. Alpine Partner June 24-25

    Hi Val, I've just recently read your TR on Burgundy&Chianti from 2013. Nice lob! I would be happy to climb with you one day. Most likely I am busy until the middle of July, but after no plans yet. If you need a partner, feel free to contact me. My cell# 425-691-9793. I can lead trad 5.9-5.10a. Cheers, Alex
  13. Trip: Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston Date: 5/26/2017 Trip Report: My friend Gerry and I climbed Colfax Peak, Cosley-Houston route last Saturday, May 20. We left Seattle on Friday evening to save time and try to be the first on a route. The road to Heliotrope Ridge was free of snow till mile 6.6. There were many cars at the end of the clear road. We parked at the camping area on the right side. Many more cars came at night. We started approach at 4 am. The trail to Heliotrope Ridge was well-beaten and straightforward. The weather was perfect. We took snowshoes for approach that proved to be a smart decision. The snow in the woods was firm, but became soft on Coleman glacier and we put our snowshoes on. We roped up on a glacier. After some time we could see our mountain. Both routes - Polish route and our Cosley-Houston looked in fat shape. Luckily we were the first party on it. We crossed the bergshrund on the left side without any problem. When we came to the first crux pillar we found very rotten ice in the beginning of it. We hesitated, but decided to give it a try. Gerry belayed me on a picket. First 2 meters the ice was horrible, but then I found some ice flow on a right side and managed to put a screw. At this time I realized that I was climbing with my pack on and a second rope in it. It was hard and the pitch was steeper than it looks. I descended and left my pack. Even without pack for me the pitch was pumpy and chandeleured ice made difficult feet. I think the pitch was 15 meters or so. I made a belay on a solid picket and took Gerry. The route now eased off and we simul-climbed further. The second step was much easier - just about 2 meters. Again we used a belay on a pickets before and after the step. After the second step we mostly soloed the rest. Te snow conditions were pretty good with good kick steps and some fronpointing on neve. We reached the summit at 1 PM. I will give some description of the descend. Descend from the summit mostly follows the ridge towards mount Baker. Don't go to the left, there is heavilly crevassed area there. No rappel is necessary at this time, but be careful - there is a crevasse on a ridge crest. Bypass rime-covered buttress on a right side. After it go straight towards Mount Baker and join the descend from Colman-Deming route. We were glad we carried over our snowshoes. In warm temperatures we would sink in the soft snow on Coleman glacier. We came back to a car at 6 PM. Yet another good day! Polish route Upper pillar closeup Cosley-Houston lower part First pillar Gerry follows Second step Obligatory summit picture Gear Notes: 2 half ropes 2 ice tools each 8 ice screws 8 quickdraws 2 pickets Approach Notes: Skis or snowshoes needed
  14. Trip: Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully Date: 5/6/2017 Trip Report: We climbed Mount Hood Right Gully on a weekend 6-7 Mat 2017. The weather was very promising at last. As I have to drive to from Seattle to Portland to join my friends Oleg and Ananstasia, I insisted that we go with approach to have a sleep before climb. We started fom Tilly Jane parking lot at 1:20 PM on Saturday. Originally we planned to camp on an Elliot Glacier. However when qwe arrived at Cooper Spur Shelter, we encountered strong and cold wind and decided that it is not worth to hike further up. We made our camp in a shade of the shelter. Next morning we started at 3:15 AM. The wind was still strong and cold. Anastasia got cold feet and decided to turn back. We continued with Oleg. We arrived at the bergshrund at 7 AM and traversed across the right side of the bergshrund. After the bergshrund we found a good consolidated neve. We continued by simul-climbing on front points. First step was a short WI2 section. Then long section of simul-climbing again. Second step was also short and easy. More front-pointing followed and we topped the summit at 11:10 AM. To get back to our came we decided to descend Sunshine route. We downclimbed it and bypassed many crevasses arriving at camp at 4 PM and back to car at 6:30 PM. Very mellow conditions now on North Face. Hard neve makes good exercise for calves. Gear Notes: 60 m ropes 2 ice tools each 2 pickets 2 screws Several slings Approach Notes: We did not use flotation, but with warmer temperatures snow can be softer and flotation might be needed.