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Everything posted by JasonG
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On the trail to the Enchantments, if I do remember correctly, though you'll have to be extra special if you feel the need to clip anything while walking up those slabs @cascade_mountaineer
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[TR] Mount Prophet - "Jacob's Ladder" (AKA full SW rib...FA?) 06/24/2018
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
It's no Huey Lewis, but this is more my style: -
[TR] Mount Prophet - "Jacob's Ladder" (AKA full SW rib...FA?) 06/24/2018
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
It really is, I think it could become moderately popular. You can't beat the position! And the approach is cool as well...plus hardly any brush. -
[TR] Mount Prophet - "Jacob's Ladder" (AKA full SW rib...FA?) 06/24/2018
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
oh man......that's classic! Funny you should mention people barging into that bathroom when it was "locked". We talked of this in detail. That latch just about got everyone, myself included, over the years. My favorite was a little old lady who just about had a heart attack when the door opened to reveal me on the toilet. Good times at Good Food. Now, if only I had had the guts to go to Blackie's when it was open in the 90's.... Dallas and Scott have regaled me with tales from that fine establishment. -
Trip: Mount Prophet - "Jacob's Ladder" (AKA full SW rib...FA?) Trip Date: 06/24/2018 Trip Report: "And Jacob went out from Beersheba, and went toward Haran. And he lighted upon a certain place, and tarried there all night, because the sun was set; and he took of the stones of that place, and put them for his pillows, and lay down in that place to sleep. And he dreamed, and behold a ladder set up on the earth, and the top of it reached to heaven: and behold the angels of God ascending and descending on it." - Genesis 28:10-12 KJV Grunting our way up the prominent rib on the SW side of Mount Prophet (above, in photo taken from Luna Peak by Martin Shetter), nobody would have mistaken Kit Moffitt and I for angels. Although the summit of Prophet this past Sunday was certainly much closer to heaven than the bug infested forests back at Luna Camp, our home for two nights as we investigated the directissima up the SW rib. Our aim was to explore above 5450' on the feature, where everyone seems to traverse off the rib into a typically crappy talus basin (via 4th class down climb). Given the ominous warning on SummitPost, Kit and I went in with a rope, rack, and even a pair of rock shoes: "The rib has cliffs on either side and no one has yet explored the possibility of climbing it directly to the summit. That could prove to be a bad idea."- SP We were a little disappointed that the gear stayed in the pack the entire time, however (long way to carry it!), but pleasantly surprised to find fairly clean and exposed class 3 climbing for ~1500 vertical feet to the summit. There really is no reason to leave the SW rib for future parties, until it is time to descend. We did go down the "SW rib" route (south of actual SW rib, described well on SP and found it to be your typical mix of scree, talus,and pain). We also found a way back on to the rib at about 5600' that only involved a bit of exposed class 3 (seems easier than how the lower access is described on SP?). Given the obvious difference in quality between the two scramble routes, I suspect that future parties will follow the loop that Kit and I did this past Sunday. However, I wouldn't be surprised if someone has ascended the full SW rib before we did this past weekend. Does anyone have info of previous parties, before Kit and I go claiming this massive, 3rd class, FA?? It is quite prominent as you descend out Access (Axes? Pickaxes?) Creek, and I noticed it back in 2007 on the exit from my first Pickets trip. It was fun to come back and explore something that has not been documented before- our very own backyard adventure! Just goes to show that there are still plenty of blanks on the (climbing) map, even for the blue collar set.... Calling the resort for the boat pickup, saving 12 miles RT: Luna Peak: Mac Spires, Inspiration, The Pyramid, Degenhardt: Blue collar! Nearing the summit as the rib fades: Jack: "Jacob's Ladder" from the summit Old habits die hard. Hanging out with the ghosts at Good Food, post trip: Gear Notes: Helmet, axe, crampons (early season). We brought gear in case it was technical, but found nothing over exposed class 3. Approach Notes: Big Beaver trail to just before Luna camp, then head uphill a steep vertical mile to the summit. It goes from hiking to scrambling at about 5800' The slope turns into the SW rib which is followed religiously to the summit. Descend on the south side of the rib until you can regain it about 5600'
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I would place a call up to the joint NPS/USFS office in Sedro Woolley and talk with Orlando Garcia. He handles special use permits for guides in the North Cascades and could let you know what you are in for.
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Oh, you're THAT @Scott Bennett.....OK, makes more sense now!
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ummmmmmmmmmm...... That is just about the craziest thing I've heard in a long time. Wow!! OK, I'll have to read your blog now....
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The climb is cool and all, but, but .....that TRUNDLE!!! Any video of the carnage that must've wrought?? I can only aspire to such a feat.
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[TR] Mount Constance - South Chute Solo in a Day 06/23/2018
JasonG replied to Asfahl's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Welcome @Asfahl! Glad you've found the site useful, hopefully this is the first of many TRs to come. Constance is a great climb, so very dramatic while on the upper mountain, and the highest summit in the Olympics visible from Seattle. A winning combo for sure. -
You knew, deep down. The choss is strong within you.
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I'm more interested in where that photo was @Bronco? Approximate date?
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That's Marble Creek Cirque from near the Triad. Early morning spire, Dorado Needle, Eldorado!! One of my favorite places in all of the Cascades, though I've only been to that vantage in the winter. Obviously need to go back in summer!
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Gothic Basin is likely to be pretty busy, but Gothic and Del Campo are fun scrambles. Likely to be less busy by Maude, which is also a good scramble along with 7FJ. More effort for those last two. I would also recommend Twin Lakes and the West ridge of Columbia.
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Awesome! Dallas Kloke had a link-up involving Half Moon that he took people on over the years. You start with Kangaroo Temple, then boot over to Half Moon and finish with Wallaby, scrambling down to Kangaroo Pass and the hairpin at the end of the day. I remember the rock quality on Half Moon being less than stellar, but a great and lonely vantage!
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More than is in Brown CAG? It is a pretty easy, rambly romp (cl. 3-4), with many variations.
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Family love in the mountains
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Yes! Such a great climb, glad you made it happen on the second try. I still think that is one of the more intimidating summits out there, given the grade. THAT'S low fifth??!! I had to laugh that you did it C2C. My wife and I took three days!
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OK, sounds like we need to add it to the list @jon, @olyclimber. Thanks @OlympicMtnBoy and @Josh Lewis
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So @Josh Lewis, you're trying to find what routes are good in a particular month? I've never searched like that, but interesting if that is how you'd like to....
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yes
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So true @Off_White. Just this morning, as we were walking into the office, my co-workers were pointing out baby spotted towhees in the landscaping outside our building. I replied, "In a few months they'll be big enough to fly into our windows."
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question Backpacking Tent on Rainier DC (Muir + Ingraham Flat) Mid July
JasonG replied to Safarir's topic in The Gear Critic
@genepires is spot on. I'll add that with an excellent forecast a good quality backpacking tent is fine on Rainier. I don't own a 4 season tent and have climbed Rainier several times. But you have to be willing to change plans if high winds are forecast on the upper mountain. i.e. not climb Rainier. Which brings up another pet peeve of mine. Teams heading up on Rainier with a poor forecast. We have a big state with lots of fun climbing. If the forecast is bad, don't go up high on the mountain. It'll be there next time and you'll have more fun somewhere else (i.e. on the east side and not on a volcano). That said, mid July is a great time of year and you'll probably have decent weather.....