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Everything posted by JasonG
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So, when you come in this way, how did you descend? Rap the route? I guess I assumed he had Blake's book already!
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A long apprenticeship will serve you well in the mountains, there's no rush. Which means you should probably find paying work for a time. Also, listen to @pcg, the most successful guides are most certainly people people- climbing is secondary.
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I haven't @Alisse, but I have climbed it. I tend to stick to descents that aren't very consequential, where I can stop and take pics frequently. It would check most of your boxes. One of my favorite big days is to go up the White Salmon , thru hell's highway, hit the summit of Shuksan (time permitting), around the summit across the Crystal, and then ski down the Hanging and White Salmon back to the slide alder hell below the ski area. That would tick most of your boxes, except you will run into teams around the summit. Or you could vary it by climbing the NF with skis and doing the reverse of that orbit.
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Can I take pictures from the base?
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You gotta prove him wrong @topher406!
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How was the weather on Sunday? Any photos? Such a fun route!
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paging @G-spotter.....
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[TR] Buckner Mountain NF, Horseshoe Peak - North Face 06/07/2018
JasonG replied to Matt Lemke's topic in North Cascades
I tried this with one of the larger SmugMug albums of mine and I think there is a limit to this feature on cc.com. It said my link was too big? -
[TR] Buckner Mountain NF, Horseshoe Peak - North Face 06/07/2018
JasonG replied to Matt Lemke's topic in North Cascades
Oh, it isn't now required, just recommended. Here's what I do....export a lower resolution subset of photos into a folder on my desktop and then upload to cc.com. I understand that if you post from a phone or Google photos that it might not be as easy. Oh, just saw what @olyclimber posted, thanks! -
[TR] Buckner Mountain NF, Horseshoe Peak - North Face 06/07/2018
JasonG replied to Matt Lemke's topic in North Cascades
Well, that needs to change!! Feel free to add to our discussion in cc.news on how to improve the site @Matt Lemke. @jon and @olyclimber will have to weigh in on whether we can improve the photo functionality of cc.com to be on par with that other site. The key is that the images need to get uploaded to the cc.com server if we want to have images that render correctly 10-15 years from now (we've had a lot of issues of TRs with bad photo links). Do images actually reside on NWhikers, or is it just linking to a web album of yours? Nice work on the trip BTW, the NF of Buckner is a fine adventure and I'm always interested in how people decide to make it happen. We opted for a camp on Sahale arm and did a RT up the NF and back to the arm and out Cascade Pass (minus Horseshoe- I don't even know if I knew it existed). But, as you illustrate, a lot of ways to skin that cat! -
Often, you're right, but I have to disagree in this case @genepires. The bad weather was forecast several days in advance. And, many of us have a rule of thumb of not climbing up into bad weather on a volcano for the very situation that these Scouts experienced. Unless you're totally familiar with the terrain and have multiple means of determining your position, the margin is just too slim on our big peaks in a storm (of course I learned this the hard way as a young climber!). Add in minors under your care and the decision to turn back before the summit is a pretty easy and obvious one. They screwed up, and many of us would have said as much to them before they left camp that morning. Moreover, the leaders poor decision put not only the young boys but the rescuers at risk, given the poor conditions. I'm not saying I always make perfect decisions (I have no doubt a poor choice of mine could some day kill me), but I would say that there is most certainly something to learn from this rescue.
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Hi @Josh Lewis- There is, it has just changed location (took me awhile to find it too). Go to account settings (NOT your Profile) and you'll see a signature option. Let me know if you have trouble finding it!
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And I assume you browsed this excellent TR (but maybe not since it should have answered your questions?):
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Some history: http://solclimbs.blogspot.com/2016/10/first-ascent-king-kong-joe-puryear.html I think most have approached as per the West/North Ridge of Stuart, then cut over.
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Third week of July 2011 @bobinc, which was a big snow year, and a cool summer, if I recall correctly.
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Camp Creek; Southern Utah
JasonG replied to HeadSpace's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Whoah. That looks like a place worth a visit!! -
On Agnes @bobinc? It is typical high alpine Cascades- not great, not terrible. I remember it as reasonable quality but not memorable (good or bad). We had a lot of snow though, which may have hid some looseness. We opted to bypass the ridge in the foreground below using a series of gullies on the other side of the ridge that were snow filled. I think if they weren't, you would want to stick to the ridge. Summit from far below: There was only a short bit of mid-fifth as I recall (we may have only had one pair of rock shoes for the leader):
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I'll be interested in hearing all about it @bobinc! I haven't seen a TR since our ascent and am curious if anyone else has been up there. Agnes is one of the loneliest major summits in the range, at least in my experience. A forgotten fang.
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This is very true @rad but I hope you're mostly in the minority?
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[TR] Silver Star - Silver Star Creek 06/02/2018
JasonG replied to JuanBelay's topic in North Cascades
Are you looking to ski or walk? What time of year? These both factor in heavily since the "best" approach will depend on your answers to the questions above @Seraphim -
Trip: Graybeard - South gully Trip Date: 05/20/2018 Trip Report: You'd think, looking at Graybeard from multiple angles, that there isn't a reasonable ski line on the peak. But a clever wee gully splits the south side and deposits one a few meters from the tippy top (some loosey goosey 3rd in ski boots to keep the finish spicy). On a clear day (which we didn't have) the view is not too shabby either, esp. the gulp inducing perspective looking down the north face. Yowza. It has been off my list for a long time but this only reinforced why. Descending back to Easy Pass in the afternoon brought us back to the crowds that are now unfortunately common in the North Cascades on weekends (3 people). Go midweek. This report is a bit late for the photos to be useful, but there is always next year. Summit ridge: Agnes! (L), Gunsight, and Sinster: The entrance is a bit steep: Across to Hardy (a great ski as well, with a bit more snow): Time to pack 'em: Gear Notes: skis, ski crampons Approach Notes: Careful on the side hill from Easy Pass. Cliffs below!
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@lutzman.....Go to the TR search page and type in the username you are interested in. It should return only their TRs. The profile summary of TRs is still being developed by @jon
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Too bad BMRU didn't get a ride up. Sounded like a miserable slog.
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[TR] Mt. Torment - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 06/02/2018
JasonG replied to charlie_r's topic in North Cascades
Thanks for the TR @charlie_r and welcome to the site! If you reivew @ivan's body of work you'll find that there is no magic formula for TRs. If you're stoked about it, we're stoked about it. The format, pictures, and description above are great! Keep 'em coming and go back and tag Forbidden! -
Ahhhhh......the peaks of the Mountain Loop Highway! Three Fingers in the center. Whitehorse on the left edge of the photo. Bullon the high crag between 3F and WH. Liberty on the right in the sun. Big Bear between 3F and Liberty.