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Everything posted by JasonG
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What about Mount Pugh @mcven? There is a nice camp at the lake before the grind to Stujack Pass. Pugh is a trail, but one that is blasted out of cliffs and very "scrambly". In addition, I'd recommend Crater. Also an old lookout site, with a lake camp below. The most elevation gain of a "trail" in WA- 6200'. Bring bug juice and a headnet for most camps right now...we're at peak bug. Agreed with @chucK, most will want a rope to descend Sahale, and many on the way up too. Also, you'll need an axe and probably crampons if you ascend early.
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[TR] Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier 07/22/2018
JasonG replied to Alisse's topic in North Cascades
Check out 20% Picardin products like this. I've found them to be equal to DEET, plus they won't melt plastic, give you cancer, or make your lips numb. Oh, and NICE WORK on Bonanza....one of the classics! -
For future info @samueleley...I've found that putting everything in a large, heavy duty, plastic bag deters most . It appears that they don't like to chew on that type of plastic. Just a few days ago I watched one crawl all over my plastic bag (with salty clothes and food in it) before losing interest and going off into the night to terrorize something else.
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Thanks for the kind words @cgolden123. I think the rise of social media (FB, IG, etc.) is mostly to blame, but certainly the old software and cranky avatars didn't help. Within the past year, @olyclimber and @jon have done an admirable job addressing the last two issues, and traffic is ticking back up. As you know, the beauty of the site is the wealth of TRs and beta housed here, so please continue to use it, spread the word, and contribute! Here's to another 18 years of the mighty CC.com!
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best of cc.com [TR] Bonanza- NW Ridge via Dark Pk. (IV 5.8)
JasonG replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
THANKS @psathyrella! I just may have to put this to good use one of these days... -
Thanks @NikiY, I let @jon and @olyclimber know.....
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first ascent [TR] Central Cascades - NW Butress Sloan Peak FA 09/23/2000
JasonG replied to kukuzka1's topic in Alpine Lakes
That's a long looking route @kukuzka1! I've climbed the West face and that looks almost double. Cool! -
Sweet, sounds like now is the time. Going to post a TR @ccox42?
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[TR] Enchantments - 7 Bulgers in a day 07/14/2018
JasonG replied to tylerhs01's topic in Alpine Lakes
That IS totally unreasonable. I've spent many weeks in the Enchantments over the years and still haven't climbed all those! -
Full disclosure @JonParker, you can probably avoid the toe pictured above by rapping in from the west ridge notch (we came around the mountain and carried over, but a full spanning crack denied us entry to the buttress higher up). There is a ramp that comes in above where this photo was taken. Still, you will likely need two ropes and potentially an extra picket to get over the 'schrund from the pin anchor that @Blake and @Dannible reference in this TR. It is a tricky approach from the WRN, even in good conditions.
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first ascent [TR] Central Cascades - NW Butress Sloan Peak FA 09/23/2000
JasonG replied to kukuzka1's topic in Alpine Lakes
done @kukuzka1! Thanks for the report! -
[TR] Ragged Ridge - Mesahchie, Kimtah, Cosho....south side 07/06/2018
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Here's the story @bobinc..... -
first ascent [TR] Mt Shuksan - No-Fo-O-Fo Ridge 07/14/2018
JasonG replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
Yeah boyz!! Very sorry that I couldn't have run the gauntlet with you....but glad that it all worked out! -
I'm not so sure about this.....the NPS has low enough permit numbers in these zones that I can easily see them filling up on July and August weekends in a few years. Will that mean that they're "overloaded"? I would say if you can't get a permit for when you want to go.....yes. Does that mean that they'll be "crowded"? Probably not....
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Should be better than this to access the toe of the route (late August 2012).... I would definitely expect shenanigans though.
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Trip: Ragged Ridge - Mesahchie, Kimtah, Cosho....south side Trip Date: 07/06/2018 Trip Report: The yin and yang of the North Cascades in one trip, a collection of experiences that seems much longer than could fit in three days...... A classic trail to an impressive pass, followed by a footsore traverse to a first camp with airplane wing views across the valley where the last of the grizzlies was shot in 1967. Choss, choss, and more choss, in all its varied forms on the south side of the ridge, including a winding gully up the imposing Mesahchie, highest of the ragged peaks on Ragged Ridge, climbed in the late after noon of day 1. A wind whipped night in a tent not as guyed as it should have been, an early start to another footsore traverse across endless gullies and ledges to easy snow and talus slopes leading to Kimtah (I had climbed Katsuk on a prior trip and Josh wasn't that interested). Storm clouds gathering to the west as we close in on Cosho, finding a register with the scrap from the FA in 1970, along with a photo of a friend who never made it to Cosho since he died on Luahna in his quest for the 100 highest. Traversing again, this time too high, running the ragged tippy top, praying to not meet the same fate as T.J. and Dallas and so many others, sans rope. Finding a second camp on an old moraine just as the thunder roars and the rain falls, diving into the tent to wait it out. Emerging to cook dinner during a lull, shortly after the rain starts up again and continues all through the night. Packing the wet tent, how did my battery go to 14%?, embarking on a snowy side hill in the rain. Punching my leg into a deep hole, my heavy pack dragging my body below my knee, so painful!, sheepishly and desperately calling to Josh to rescue me. Limping down a steepening ridge in the rain, brush soaking everything, getting off route despite checking the phone and making corrections. Battery is at 9%. This is a lot steeper than it looks on the map. OK, it's mellowing out now. Where's that trail? The trail! Lunch! German tourists sitting too close at our 4th of July pass lunch spot, drying gear in the hot sun, so many clean looking people on the trail, Chinese tourist clogging the bridge over Thunder Creek, are the North Cascades going the way of I-90? A full campground and busy highway but nobody wants to pick up a slightly battered hiker trying to look harmless. Suddenly a guy whips a u-turn and Josh and I are saved. He's a shop teacher with a house in Winthrop, and obviously a very good man. Too nice, even, to take any of the beer we pulled from the creek, exactly where we left it two days before. Camp 1: Forbidden from Mesahchie: Kimtah: Summit of Mesahchie.....4th of July pass looks so very far away: Forbidden: Katsuk, Snowfield and Baker all lined up: The Inspiration Icecap Stormking, Sinister, Dome, and Glacier: Be honest, you haven't given Arches enough credit, have you? This, for a long ways: Looking back at Mesahchie and Katsuk: Summit of Kimtah: How many pictures are you going to take on this trip?? Careful out there people: Kimtah and thieves peaks: Running a little too high west of Cosho.... Time to decompress: Uh oh: Why can't the weather be coming from the east? Clearing after the first round: Heading down between rain squalls: Don't rush the transition, yo: Gear Notes: Helmet, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Easy Pass to 4th of July Pass. ~6800' contour to camp below Mesahchie, and thereafter 7400-7800' to traverse the south side of the ridge, dropping stuff and going up from the traverse.
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[TR] Dakobed/Napeequa Loop - Clark Mountain 07/04/2018
JasonG replied to curtveld's topic in North Cascades
Did you camp at that spot in Thunder Basin? One of my favorites. How is the brush tunnel out of there? When we were there many years ago some hunters had done some hacking so it wasn't so bad....The White River trail was super brushy though. Still is? That is a great and lonesome corner of the range, nice work! -
Water situation at the Bench Camp below Burgundy Col in WA pass
JasonG replied to YocumRidge's topic in North Cascades
That spring never runs dry, even late into the fall.- 2 replies
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- wa pass
- burgundy col
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https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnmauldin/2018/05/09/7-smart-market-thinkers-predict-when-the-next-recession-will-start/#643db05244e1
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So, so true.
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It can change pretty quickly so that's why most wait until it slides, since one person's experience one day doesn't often mean anything for someone else the next. I know of many that have hiked up to turn around. It is pretty sketchy until most of it goes. Which is why August weekends are so busy on it!
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It really depends on how much is still there and how actively it is shedding blocks. And how bold you are!
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[TR] Fernow and Seven Fingered Jack - Standard Scrambles 6/21/2014
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Ha! That's classic @tanstaafl....actually this is a TR from 2014 that was dug up. @Russinthemountains...that camp is on the ridge west of 7FJ -
That's quite a lot of effort to go to to get content for your first TR! And, strangely enough, I've never gotten any sort of immersion foot in all my years of climbing, despite having lot of trips like your Logan one sounded like. I have gotten the "screaming barfies" when my feet froze in the winter a time or two though.
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The "well known local climber" sounded like he actually broke the law (and was surly when confronted about it), quite unlike the instances we're talking about.. There really isn't a gray area when it comes to a permit in NOCA. Spending the night in the park (or the Ross Lake NRA)? You need a permit.