JasonG
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Everything posted by JasonG
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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs 03/31/2019
JasonG replied to kmfoerster's topic in Alpine Lakes
Excellent! Such a classic. -
Paging @G-spotter...
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You realize that this isn't someone who has spent any time on a glacier, right @ScaredSilly? For first timers (at least in my experience), just being on a huge glacier with deep crevasses is plenty exciting.
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No idea....still happening? Any ideas @jon?
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Wondering if anyone has up to date info on snow depth in the Little Yoho, specifically if the road is still covered or has bare areas? Going to Stanley Mitchell Sunday, if possible. Thanks for any info!
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I think it is rad that you guys can be casual about climbing a route like this @Marko @rat. One of the great aspects of climbing is that it is can be infinitely tweaked to your tastes and fitness, creaky knees and all. For me, it means low angled vegetated terrain, most of the time.
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How many pink tricams?
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Yes, June, and yes a 20 degree bag should be fine. The guides will do a good job of looking out for your safety, I just was letting you know that all routes on the mountain are not equally safe.
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You can go this way, but I think it is better to just throw some rags (old t-shirts work great but you need to toss them after use) on them, heat them up with an iron and peel all that crap off. Some of the glue will come off, but not all of it (depending on how much you heat it). Then, lay a very thin layer of new glue, let it dry over night, and heat it up again under parchment paper to smooth it out. Voila! I think it is probably a bit faster than picking out bits, but it will cost you a tube of glue. I've never been patient enough to pick out even half that much crap from my skins after spring misahps. Of course, you can always go full Darin and strip it all off. He gives some good tips above. And yes @Ben Johnson we want a full blown TR!!
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Yes. Objective hazard is something that is often indifferent to you skill level (Google Alex Lowe's death). The various routes on the mountain vary tremendously in objective hazard, with the Emmons being by far the safest from that standpoint. A crevasse fall doesn't fit in this category and is more related to your skill level in picking a good line up the mountain. You'll learn this in your seminar and how to stack the various risk odds in your favor. And, the mountain gets bony after mid summer, increasing the danger of rock and icefall, and making the glacier travel trickier and less safe. Rainier is typically in terrible condition come September (at least compared to June). Regarding your risk comparison.....Nobody close to me has died in a car accident. Too many of my friends have been killed in the mountains. I don't buy driving being just as dangerous as climbing mountains per hour of activity (we drive a lot more than we climb typically).
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Trip: Mount Saint Helens - Worm Flows Trip Date: 03/24/2019 Trip Report: Last weekend @Bronco, @Kit and a couple others went down to join the gong show that is the pre-limited entry St. Helens spectacle. It has gotten a bit more popular in the 18 years since I last skied it, making for a loud and chaotic TH bivy. There was plenty of snow from the car, however, making for an efficient skin to the crater rim (if you had ski crampons). The sheer humanity visible along the way was pretty entertaining, although I think the entertainment value was lost on the two older Asian dudes we saw consulting a map, who were later rescued by helicopter (cold, but fine). We escaped the masses by traversing west to the highest point on the rim (we left our skis where we hit the crater). The ski down was OK, but the visibility less than ideal. Still, it was pretty great to be drinking beer at the car less than 30 minutes from leaving the summit. That, at least, hasn't changed. Gear Notes: skis (or a splitboard if you are mentally deficient like me), ski crampons Approach Notes: Follow the conga line up the snowshoe superhighway from the Marble Mountain SnoPark
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Not really. The Emmons is pretty safe from rock and icefall, much more so than any other route on the mountain. You don't want to be on the mountain after July.
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The DC isn't real safe from an objective standpoint either.
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If you are going to spend a bunch of time on the mountain, I'd prefer the Emmons. I'm not a big fan of objective hazard, which the Kautz has in spades. The Emmons is the safest on the mountain by a long shot.
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Wow, that doesn't sound fun. Do you have to cut it when that happens? As a balding middle aged man, this is not a problem I've ever experienced!
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Good idea @wayne, done! It really is a remarkable amount of climbing in one week. And at Banks, no less!
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Great beta TR! Seriously, you headed off nearly every possible question....
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I think you can maybe guess why many of the climbs aren't named. And when they do form, they often fall down just as fast. This is an impressive TR, you guys really nailed it. Almost as impressive as that tipi!
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If the Charmoz is too big I'd check out this (I just bought a pair recently): https://www.sportiva.com/trango-tower-gtx.html I think they are a great (maybe not perfect) Cascadian 3 season boot- I've been climbing in some variation of them for the past 20 years (tried Kaylands at one point and went back to LS). I get about 3-5 seasons of decent use out of them, though I did wear a pair out in one year when I spent the winter climbing in New Zealand and the summer climbing hard in the Cascades (before kids, ha!). The most important thing is fit! If they don't fit, it doesn't matter the features. Find the boot company whose last best fits your foot. You can likely stick with them for life. I used to think all leather was the way, but I'm sold on synthetic at this point- they dry quicker. The durability isn't as good in my experience, but the weight savings is worth it. Good luck! I started my climbing career in a club course and met lots of great people.....
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Let's do it!
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[TR] MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall 03/10/2019
JasonG replied to kadyakerbob's topic in Oregon Cascades
I always think this when I'm wallowing waist deep in the hills. -
idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots
JasonG replied to Spraylord_Boltey's topic in The Gear Critic
I'd forgotten about the Voile option...... and I've approached with plastic mountaineering boots with those exact bindings (I have a splitboard)! Still, unless you are climbing really hard stuff I think AT boots are better in all respects. -
idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots
JasonG replied to Spraylord_Boltey's topic in The Gear Critic
Couldn't you just leave the heels free when descending on some 404s to give you that tele feel? (edit: Just saw that @montypiton said the same thing!) It isn't likely that anyone is going to produce a binding like what you are thinking of, given how well modern AT boots climb. -
[TR] Shuksan, Icy, Ruth - Nooksack Traverse 03/01/2019
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Did you have to pound the pickets or axe to drive them (and they didn't pop through a crust and sink easily)? I think the consensus is that unless the answer is yes, they won't hold a fall. Also, top clip or mid-clip? Mid-clip is typically much stronger. Wondering if you concur based on your incident... Here is some technical reading on snow anchor strength if you haven't seen it: snow anchors Most importantly, I'm glad you're taking some time to figure out how to improve your systems (and posting here so that others can learn as well). It isn't often that we get second chances in the hills and I'm glad you've learned a few things without the pain/loss that often accompanies the education.
