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JasonG

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Everything posted by JasonG

  1. Makes sense. We had soft snow which made it much more reasonable. And I wasn't with my son and dog!
  2. Very true. The approach is greatly helped with the snow, but it certainly makes some of that easy scrambling quite tricky.
  3. Wow, that looks stout in those conditions. Much easier when all that steep snow is gone, but then you have the death blocks to contend with. Good work getting everyone up and down safely!
  4. Whew. I get to stay in the Skagit. Wait, does that mean I'm old?
  5. Welcome @Benzo! Thanks for the great TR and perspective on gaining the skills you need to do these types of trips in a safe and fun way. The mountains are quite humbling, I know I feel like I still have much to learn all these years later. Keep the reports coming and I will look for you and your wife in the hills!
  6. Let me know @OlegV and @DPS! It is on my list....
  7. Ouch. Glad you had a good climb on that stout route!
  8. I think LR is very condition dependent. My experience was from a long time ago, but we found excellent conditions in early June of 2002. It was quite cold and calm though. That said, I was almost taken out by a bowling ball around the black pyramid! However, I really liked the route and thought it well worth the 50 classic designation.
  9. JasonG

    High Ice movie

    OH!!! Well, you learn something new every day! I know what I will be doing on a rainy November night this fall!
  10. Sad news. A bad week on Rainier it sounds like, with the two other searches underway.
  11. How times change...... the Blum approach has a bridge over the Baker River, and the Goodell creek approach is now a full blown trail, sans brush. Thanks for a blast from my beginnings in the climbing world! Not too many of the young 'uns use this system any more.
  12. JasonG

    High Ice movie

    Rumor has it that a certain someone at the Darrington Ranger station has a copy on VHS. I've heard it is about as amazing as the trailer suggests. There are still people around D-town who have stories about the film crew/shenanigans that went down during the making of the movie. Thanks for the reminder to work my connections to get a viewing!
  13. Awesome. Been on my list for a number of years....thanks for the reminder!
  14. Thanks for the tip! Glad you got out and enjoyed the sun....
  15. There is a great place to camp at Klawatti col. Camped there for 4 nights years ago on a peak bagging binge. If the weather is good, it's fine. If not, nothing up there is fine (in my experience), including the Eldo bivy.
  16. Chances are the weather/conditions will be not so great anyways at the end of October. Go for a hike in the Columbia River Gorge instead and save the summit for the spring or summer when it is in better condition. I don't think there is a good way to find MSH permits these days on the web other than trolling social media or Craigslist. There used to be a page that facilitated this but the USFS shut us down.
  17. It is true @BK9, @sambataro and the rest of the Access Fund Crew are looking out for all of us climbers.
  18. Yeah, it would seem like that forum is dead. Any info on that @jon or @olyclimber?
  19. It is too far out to know for sure about the 19th, but it appears unsettled into the extended: .LONG TERM /SUNDAY THROUGH WEDNESDAY/...Extended models in good agreement with the upper level low moving out of the area early Sunday. This is the best chance for a short dry spell with a weak and transitory upper level ridge moving through during the day. Yet another system arriving on Monday keeping the cool and wet June weather pattern intact. Yet another upper level low/trough behind the front Tuesday for more shower activity. There is some disagreement in the models Wednesday with the ECMWF kicking the trough out of the area for a dry day. The GFS does have the trough east of the area but not far enough for a dry forecast. Ensembles in both models have about 20 percent of the solutions with some light precipitation. Will keep a slight chance of showers in the forecast Wednesday. High temperatures will remain below normal through the extended period with upper 50s to lower 60s warming into the 60s by Wednesday. Lows in the mid 40s to lower 50s. Felton This time of year the Stuart range is a good backup if the high peaks are getting hit, which is often the case. Liberty Ridge is really one that you want perfect weather on (meaning clear skies AND low wind). There have been a number of accidents/fatalities over the years on that route related to poor weather. Actually, I sort of think that is true for all the volcanoes. They have a way of magnifying whatever weather is around.
  20. No problem Nicolas, I am just trying to prevent you from running into trouble. Good weather on the big volcanoes is very important and stacks the odds in your favor. Over the years there have been a number of accidents with poor weather as a significant contributing factor.
  21. Nice! Looks like better wedder than I would have thought. I worked on my fence in the rain. Go figure.
  22. https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.76284790039062&lat=46.84657335127747 If this forecast continues I think you are going to want to rethink you plans for the PNW. Later in June or early July will likely have better weather. These mountains are not very much fun in unsettled weather, and can be quite dangerous, no matter your experience level.
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