sfuji

Congrats on the first summit via the route, and thanks for the wonderful photos and info! Michael T and I went up with intentions of the line not too long after Kyle and Porter's adventure. We camped in a grove of trees below the base and were treated to the echos of slides from the upper snowfields through the afternoon into evening, thus we retreated the next morning after a few laps skiing some minor gullies near the base. Maybe we should've camped out of earshot of the face

Wonderful trip report and photos! The photos of the worms that you turned into shrimp broth have me cracking up and gagging at the same time

Incredible photos and beta, thanks for putting in the effort to share! That creek crossing was surprisingly brutal, it looks so friendly until you wade in... Has anyone done the Stehekin approach for Goode? I'd like to try that way next time- the walk back to highway 20 kinda wrecked me.

Awesome trip report and photos!

Cheers for all your hard work! Excited to check this one out.

Damn that looks fun, it’s going on the list. Thanks for sharing the stoke!

Looks like a great day for climbing, thanks for the inspiring report!

Damn, good work. Such a cool looking headwall!

Beautiful photos! Looks like a super fun romp.

Michael will be better at explaining since he actually uses the system but I'll offer some preliminary ideas: Rope is stacked at the anchor because Michael is lazy and doesn't want to carry the rope on lead. You can also have it stacked in a backpack, in which case you probably wouldn't use the microtraxion, which just holds some slack at the ready to pull through the grigri as he moves up. It is NOT fall protection. Only the gri-gri will catch a fall. Slipknots tied at intervals in the stacked rope will hopefully jam in the grigri if the device malfunctions but doesn't totally explode. Someone get this man a silent partner! EDIT: Michael stole my thunder as usual...

Study the second to last picture for a sneak preview... Don't give away the secret winter crag!

I always enjoy stopping for coffee/breakfast before and a celebratory dinner at local spots when going on climbs. It's a luxury I appreciate, especially when the cafe/restaurant feels welcoming and community-oriented. At the same time I skip it without much thought if timing is an issue, i.e. leaving early or getting back late. Usually 1-2 people but sometimes more if bouldering.

You’re the best, hope the owner finds this post. I assume you’re posting elsewhere but mountain project and various facebook groups will broaden the reach. Time to go sharpen my cleats and check the action on my hooks.

Goretex... always seems to fail right when you need it to work. Way to keep trucking through the wet, cold, and tangles! Looks like a fun route, and enjoyed reading your report. Curious what the temps were like? From your description of stomping out footholds it sounds pretty slushy- did the screws seem solid? BTW don't rap too fast with those Showa gloves, it will abrade through the coating so quickly you might be tricked into thinking they're $20 gloves.

Wow, incredibly beautiful photos, well done! What is your camera set-up for those night shots?? I think you just made my plans for next summer for me.