JasonG

Could be climbing related or not, but compelling photos are key. I especially like the older books with B&W photos from the 30's-60's . .. think Miller's N. Cascades, Glen Denny's "Yosemite in the 60's", etc. Also the series of books that Manning, Brower, and Co. put out in support of the N. Cascades Nat'l Park and Cascade wilderness areas are pretty cool too. What are some other ideas? The Cascades are near and dear to me, but that is mainly what I know, so it would be interesting to hear what are the classics from other areas (and maybe some that I haven't heard from around here). Modern books too . . . Any other collectors out there?

Now that is some interesting history. Does anyone know if Beckey really did add the "hound" part? I have to admit that I really hate snaffles ....although I have to give them respect for their boldness and tenacity. Not to mention that I'm pretty sure they are possessed by demons. How else can they possibly survive on those God forsaken ridgetops unless they are sent by the devil himself?

I also like the idea of a DVD or two (maybe by themes?). Or you could set up pay per view website that could also help fund the efforts, or you could do both. I understand that the preservation work is not free, and I am willing to pay a modest amount to keep the PNW climbing and skiing history alive. Thanks for honestly laying out the issues and trying to solicit ideas!

Thanks for all the hard work Lowell! Quick question- Will this grant mean that the full length versions of the films will be available on the web in the future? The trailers are great, but it would be fantastic to see some of these in their entirety.

Static rope? For pulling your car out of the ditch?

Holy cow, I need to get a copy of Bob's book! He showed me copy #1 last year and had no idea that it was for sale. It was stunning to say the least, and an impressive effort for someone working on it nights and weekends. I will be buying a hardbound copy ASAP . . ..

Type in "First Ascent" in the TR search page under route and a few pop up....all will be recent FAs. I doubt there are many historic (however that is defined) FAs described on the board - the Dragontail Boving route thread is one of the few I can recall.

With our two boys, we found that it depends on the kid. Some will like the moby, some the ergo, some neither. Both good suggestions though. Personally, I was pretty psyched when they got big enough to go in this: http://www.amazon.com/Sherpani-Rumba-Backcountry-Baby-Carrier/dp/B003BT5F70 It's a sign that the prison years are on the wane.....

Wow, is that as classic as it looks? Other stuff in the area that is similar? Pretty cool, thanks for the TR!

Uh Oh . ...Wastral has gone aggro. Time to set up the battle cage!!!!!! Where's the Capt'n when you need him?

Has that prominent ramp/gully been skied? Is this the Malignant gully you are referring to?

I think the key is the word "completely" in TNF press release/blog/whatever. I think it is a rather stupid distinction, but I'll bet this is the angle TNF is using. Probably some of the Polish expeditions started in the late autumn . .. Sorry, didn't mean to come to the defense of TNF, I was merely marveling at the slippery phrasing that they used.

See, you can believe some of the stuff Jeff says!

Just this once, we'll share the Smoot: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Washingtons-Mountains/dp/0762710861/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_2

And how was it?

No Scrambles, we didn't think she would play well with the wildlife. Maybe when you get back from AK we can have a special Scrambles scramble?

Thanks . . .Canon T1i.

That is too bad. We left it in fine shape (and took care of a rodent that was in the lookout), as had those before us. We also used the blue bags provided and packed it out. We didn't see evidence of abuse/littering/human waste/etc., . That would really be tragic if a few bad apples spoil it for the rest of us, but I understand, you have to protect the lookout. Unfortunately, I suspect that efforts to secure the structure in winter will lead to vandalism from frustrated yahoos..... Regardless, thanks for taking care of the lookout, it is a great recreation resource!

Trip: Merchant Peak - South gully Date: 2/2/2011 Trip Report: Man, that Jeff Smoot sure knows how to pick them! As far as a winter/spring outing, Merchant is a great scramble. It's an easy drive from Seattle, has a low elevation TH that is accessible much of the year, and a short approach. Just make sure avi conditions are stable, as you are in harms way for most of the route. You will probably have the mountain to yourself, and the views are pretty darn good, so next time the weather cooperates maybe you should check it out . . .but first buy Smoot's book, so you can start ticking them off. You'll get hooked, just ask Tim and Ben. Captions are for the photo following . . . Mmmmmm, a loose gully. Firm snow made for fast travel Why you should go right before the second waterfall. Baring is certainly an impressive backdrop to the day. Where's Will Gadd when you need him? Index-Persis, Sky Valley, Olypmpics Summit ridge of Merchant, a few feet shy of the cumbre. Savage! Gunn Peak. Does anyone know where the Gunslinger route is? Summit of Baring, with Chair and Kaleetan in the distance. Heading down to make it back to J R Phinickey's in Monroe for happy hour. I think it took us around 6hrs round trip (for the climb, not the pub). Gear Notes: crampons, axe/whippet, helmet. No rope or harness needed. Jeff Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains"- don't leave home without it. Approach Notes: Leave Barclay lake trail at gravel wash, past bridge over creek. Go up. Pass first waterfall in gully on left and second on right. Leave main gully ~3900', and go up semi hidden gully with large overhang at its base. When feasible, hang a left to summit.

Was "Godzilla" already mentioned? He is kind of green I think, and he could certainly crush the competition, unless some other company has a "Mothra" rock shoe. Oh, and it it a nice route at Index too . ..

From Lama's website: "As far as possible I would like to stick to the compressor route; I’ll refrain from bolting in rap-style. Should variations from the original compressor route be necessary for a free climbing attempt I will have to do that on lead, a quiet time intense venture for the short periods of good weather on Cerro Torre." Sounds like the lad is listening to the majority opinion out there. . . .Maybe folks can chill out a bit. He is pretty young and still figuring things out after all.

Interesting observations, thanks for that. They do it because they can, and once fees get established it is fairly easy to keep raising them. I'm guessing that it also has something to do with the fact that rainier is a singular objective within the park unlike the others that have lots and lots of routes on a variety of mountains. Maybe it's easier to police/control climbers @ rainier, so they feel they can wring money out of folks? This is raising more and more red flags- I think Loren makes some good points above also. Maybe I'll send another letter . . .

Thanks Brandon! Sorry I couldn't have joined you this past weekend . . .

Wait a sec, I just looked that prose up .. . Thórbiörn Hornklofi, Beowulf, and ......King Crimson? Now that is the classic stuff cc.com is made of. Sorry, now I can't resist. . . . The snakes and arrows a child is heir to Are enough to leave a thousand cuts We build our defenses, a place of safety And leave the darker places unexplored Sometimes the fortress is too strong Or the love is too weak What should have been our armor Becomes a sharp and angry sword

I'm not nearly literary enough to fully understand this thread, but I like the imagery . . .a nice change of style from the usual.