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Everything posted by JasonG
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I think for the summertime both of those boots would be way overkill for anything not on a volcano. Maybe you do a different sort of climbing than I do in the summer, but these look just about right: http://en.kayland.com/details.php?id=38 That is the problem with buying a boot for all seasons around here. With the large swing in conditions between the seasons, two boots really make more sense. I understand it isn't cheap, however.
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Rad- Seriously....I wasn't knocking the harness thing, been there. When you are below the tree line with your harness on, you are in the midst of a truly Cascadian experience! De-proaching South Hozomeen (convinced that there just had to be a better way down then the way we went up):
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Frost wedging can move large blocks over the course of freeze thaw cycles. It's a pretty safe bet to never say never in terms weathering on cliff faces.
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Kevin Thurner's North Cascades The Skagit Alpine Club will host an evening presentation by local mountain photographer Kevin Thurner on Wednesday April 6th. The show will take place at Skagit Valley College, Roberts Hall (T-31 on this map: http://www.skagit.edu/images/color_mvCampus.pdf) and will begin at approximately 7:30pm after the monthly business meeting (7pm). Kevin has been making high resolution images of the North Cascades for more than 20 years. Often sleeping upon summits and high ridgelines for the sunset and sunrise views they afford, his photographs offer a stirring perspective and a clear affection for the fine mountains many of us call home. “Photography has been very important for me and often very intertwined with the adventures I’ve pursued. We all have creative impulses that need expression and this has been a part of my own personal answer.” For this show, Kevin will be sharing a selection of his favorite images taken in the North Cascades. Please join us for what is sure to be an inspiring evening. Don't miss it!! For more on Kevin’s photographs, please visit the following links: Kevin’s website: www.kevinthurner.com Northwest Mountaineering Journal article: www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/10/101_Bivouacs.html Interview of Kevin by noted Colorado based photographer Jack Brauer: www.mountainphotographer.com/interview-with-kevin-thurner/
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Just noticed the harnesses on when crossing the creek . . .Classic! On to the Hozomeen traverse!
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I'll second that. One of the best TRs I've read in awhile. Thanks!
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Thanks! I was looking into it as part of a rambly, scrambly traverse from Webb to Copper, returning to a second car via the Chilliwack. Sounds like it might be worth checking out if you were walking past.... ssssshhhh, don't tell homeland security.
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Just wondering if anyone has first or second hand info . ..looks interesting from the short description in Beckey. . ...
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PUBLIC MEETING WEDS 2/2/11: RAINIER CLIMBING FEES
JasonG replied to MarmotMountain's topic in Climber's Board
Short story: We could care less what most climbers think, we're raising your fees regardless. I wish I could say I was surprised. Aside from flying barrels of turds off the mountain, I personally don't value rangers on the hill very much and said so in my comments. I haven't been in a rescue situation though, so I suppose I'm bit biased. Oh well, based on my interactions with rangers, it's hard to feel sorry for the Park Service and their budget cuts. I just wish climbers weren't singled out. I think Loren raised a number of excellent fiscal points- points that weren't taken into account in this fee increase. What next, a permit fee for NCNP? -
[TR] norway - vang - some more routes 3/8/2011
JasonG replied to spionin's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Here's an interesting angle- these are Norwegian bugs right? There usually isn't much good that comes out of transporting bugs across continents, but if they are just house fly larvae, that cat got out of the Central Asian bag long ago . . .Still, you can see how species move all around! -
[TR] norway - vang - some more routes 3/8/2011
JasonG replied to spionin's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
I'm pretty sure the creatures feeding on the marrow are doing you a favor (provided that you keep them outside). Bugs are a time tested technique for cleaning nasty bits off rotten bones/antlers. Leave the rack outside for the summer (out of the sun- better yet, bury it) and you should be good to go. If you want to speed things up, and have access to a huge pot and large propane burner, you can boil them. It'll stink, so don't even think of doing it inside. -
Email sent to Phyllis, Thanks for the heads up. . . . Alright folks, Please send an email if you love day trips in D-town!!!!!
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Interesting . .. I also witnessed a large serac collapse in the evening before we were going to climb (early July 2003). While it was lower on the route and didn't cause the carnage in the linked photos, it still would have killed/maimed those in the line of fire. The only positive was that it partially filled an especially large crevasse and made the crossing the next day much quicker than if it never happened. We moved with some urgency through the section . . . I agree that the NR of Baker has much less objective hazard. Adams Gl. is probably more similar to the right side of the Coleman HW for hazard, but not quite as steep. It is a great route though, the high camp is one of the more scenic in the range.
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Thanks Curt, I was looking at that face as well when we were up there. Certainly doable for the hardperson, but maybe a bit stiff for me. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has climbed that face and what they found.
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Thanks for the photo compliments, I realized I left out a couple of the major views from the lookout. Looking towards Goat and Shuksan at dusk: Larabee and American Border Peak: Tomyhoi:
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It's open..... they wouldn't close it until next winter at the earliest I'd suspect. Now whether or not you can get there right now without an avalanche taking you out is another story....
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Some great titles! Keep 'em coming . ..
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Could be climbing related or not, but compelling photos are key. I especially like the older books with B&W photos from the 30's-60's . .. think Miller's N. Cascades, Glen Denny's "Yosemite in the 60's", etc. Also the series of books that Manning, Brower, and Co. put out in support of the N. Cascades Nat'l Park and Cascade wilderness areas are pretty cool too. What are some other ideas? The Cascades are near and dear to me, but that is mainly what I know, so it would be interesting to hear what are the classics from other areas (and maybe some that I haven't heard from around here). Modern books too . . . Any other collectors out there?
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Now that is some interesting history. Does anyone know if Beckey really did add the "hound" part? I have to admit that I really hate snaffles ....although I have to give them respect for their boldness and tenacity. Not to mention that I'm pretty sure they are possessed by demons. How else can they possibly survive on those God forsaken ridgetops unless they are sent by the devil himself?
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I also like the idea of a DVD or two (maybe by themes?). Or you could set up pay per view website that could also help fund the efforts, or you could do both. I understand that the preservation work is not free, and I am willing to pay a modest amount to keep the PNW climbing and skiing history alive. Thanks for honestly laying out the issues and trying to solicit ideas!
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Thanks for all the hard work Lowell! Quick question- Will this grant mean that the full length versions of the films will be available on the web in the future? The trailers are great, but it would be fantastic to see some of these in their entirety.
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Static rope? For pulling your car out of the ditch?
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Holy cow, I need to get a copy of Bob's book! He showed me copy #1 last year and had no idea that it was for sale. It was stunning to say the least, and an impressive effort for someone working on it nights and weekends. I will be buying a hardbound copy ASAP . . ..
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Type in "First Ascent" in the TR search page under route and a few pop up....all will be recent FAs. I doubt there are many historic (however that is defined) FAs described on the board - the Dragontail Boving route thread is one of the few I can recall.
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With our two boys, we found that it depends on the kid. Some will like the moby, some the ergo, some neither. Both good suggestions though. Personally, I was pretty psyched when they got big enough to go in this: http://www.amazon.com/Sherpani-Rumba-Backcountry-Baby-Carrier/dp/B003BT5F70 It's a sign that the prison years are on the wane.....