JasonG

I think NZ is a great place to go climbing once you are a fairly experienced climber. I thought Cook by even the "easy" routes to be somewhat more intimidating/difficult than Liberty Ridge. Quite good climbing (if weather/conditions allow), but it is far more dangerous than most all peaks in the Cascades. I also thought the SW ridge on Aspiring to be a classic anywhere, but again harder than most Cascade climbs. I think both of our summit days on Cook and Aspiring were 15+ hour jaunts. As a friendly bit of advice, don't hike in to the Plateau Hut on Cook- the heli ride is very much worth the cost. As Tvash pointed out, the tracks to the climbing areas tend to be rough. The huts make up for it, but the weather can be very, very bad- so they are kind of a necessity. It is a great country and one I would consider going back to each winter- if it wasn't so darn expensive to get there. There are plenty of great hikes (tramps) to go on if the weather/climbing conditions stink (which is likely). Lots of crags too....

Nice work, you nailed it!!! If only my home and work commitments let me have a little more flexibility . . .next time!

Although I really hate to admit it, I can relate. With my youngest just a year old, and my oldest three, I am still in the midst of the sleep deprived craziness. It will do strange and unsettling things to a person (at least me), and although I haven't hurt my kids, I know exactly where it comes from. I would not be able to cast the first stone for sure. We all make mistakes- some are more horrible than others, unfortunately.

Cool! Give me a ring next time you are up for Erie and need a partner Curt, I need to get back in climbing shape.....

Shuksan was skied several times over the last couple of days, check TAY for reports. A party turned around (and went down the NW couloir), and did not drop in to the NF due to a reactive 1' windslab. Still winter up there, no matter what the calendar says.

When I did the research to buy ours a couple of years ago, the sherpani rhumba was about the best (http://sherpani.com/sherpani-rumba.aspx). I think we found it new, on sale for ~140, but they often show up on craigslist. We have gone backpacking several times and used it on dozens of day hikes and it works quite well. If you are over 6' 2" the shoulder straps are a bit short, otherwise it carries really well. I would highly recommend it.

Well said John. That TR and your images stuck with me as well . . .RIP David.

Great Photo Matt!!! Dallas would've been proud of Calvin's lead. Thanks to one and all who attended- we got a lot of trail work done, and climbed Dallas's classic Zig-Zag under a warm sun. You couldn't ask for a better day to remember one of our local legends. And, as least as far as I'm concerned, Dallas kept the ticks at bay. Thanks!

If she is really a he, then I would suggest "Dallas" in honor of Mr. Kloke- one of the few men who could challenge "Fred" for the title of "human Cascadian climbing database".

Beta At least that is what I usually try and extract from her . . ..

Oh yeah! I've gone either way and that is certainly better if it isn't weeping....

Thanks Matt, I will look for you and I am sure we can get you a partner. Right now I have no idea who I am climbing with so it could be me! I don't know about Zig-Zag, we can talk tomorrow....

For all the folks who plan on attending, if you could say so on this post it will help with the preparations. Thanks, and I hope to see a lot of folks Saturday at 0900!

I don't know Mike- I think the spec on the Bluewater is around 2500 lbs while Darin's is about 2200, both for 6mm. The Imlay is less than half the price per foot too....

So are twin ropes just too 20th century? I would imagine that the lightest 7.5-7.7 twins would compare favorably to a thicker lead line and pull cord for weight(although probably more money). I understand that for harder rock they wouldn't haul worth a damn, however.... It seems like 1/2 or twin lines used to be the standard for ice and long alpine climbs, and am wondering if they are mostly out of favor now. Is rope management while leading the deciding factor for going with the systems described above? Or?

You were right Dan- http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=327&projectID=15048&documentID=20910 As an FYI there are now four repeater sites: McGregor, Ruby, Desolation, and Copper. The latter two are at the lookout sites. Sat phones were rejected as an alternative, but were considered. Maybe next go around....

I think that there is one on easy instead of copper ridge? . . . .It seems like they could switch to sat phones at some point and remove the repeaters. I agree that they aren't too bad, but it seems like if technology allows, they should still be removed. Same thing with the snotel sites . . ..

Ha! I am being a bit grumpy, I suppose. Looks like you had a fine day this winter too, Tom. That's a good bit of work without skis!

A gondola or tram would have been bad, but it is not as if the summit has been completely spared. That radio repeater is an abomination, and certainly an annoying sight after all the work to haul yourself up there. I guess if I had my butt saved by a radio assisted park rescue I'd feel differently though . . ... .

I like this one: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=486123 Because, as someone with a job, house, wife, and two young kiddos, it gives me hope that there will be still adventure in my "mature" years. Donn, you the man!

Man, the climbing in the Sierra looks so ... .pleasant. Nice little film, I certainly need to make my way south!

Trip: Ruby - North Slopes Date: 4/8/2011 Trip Report: Powder in April? With a good forecast and reports of prime skiing on north facing slopes, the gang laid plans for a trip to the north side of Ruby. NWAC was being a little pessimistic with their forecast, which I suppose if understandable given the recent accidents and activity, so we all agreed to take it easy and turn around if anything felt off. We started on the Happy Creek trail, following it until skinnable snow was reached (~2800?). We followed the drainage up to about 3400' where we cut hard left with some tricky skinning to gain the NE ridge leading to the summit area. In hindsight, we could have gone straight up the gut, but it is a bit more avi exposed. Popping out on the ridge was pretty glorious, and while tired from the hard work of trailbreaking (thanks to Tim and Scott mostly), we could see the objective still quite a bit above us. We didn't see any signs of recent natural instability, even on very steep and wind loaded terrain. To be safe® we stuck to the mellowest slopes and ribs we could, and all the while the snow seemed well bonded and right side up (at least the most recent layers). It took us about 6.5 hours total to get to the top, and a couple hours back down, including a little extra time spent messing around after I BROKE MY SPLITBOARD. Major bummer, but at least I did it at the end of the good skiing. I was givin' 'er a bit too much and crashed at high speed, breaking the cores of both halves- yikes. I guess nine years is about the life of a splitboard that gets used a good bit. Some careful attention meant I could still use it somewhat, but it was really squirrelly. Oh well, here are some photos of a great day out in the North Cascades. Tricky skinning to gain the ridge: Jack! Ruby, still a long way to go: There is some seriously fine ski terrain on the north side of Ruby, if only I was fitter: There is some pain involved, if the snow is good. Ugh. Logan and Buckner: Snowfield group: Tim dropping in Scott: Kit, enjoying the fruits of our labor: Boot top powder in April for three thousand feet? Yep, we'll take that. We still have a long way to go down from where this photo was taken, even though it is a couple thousand feet below Ruby's summit. The ridge we ascended is visible above the skier. Gear Notes: Any flotation other than snowshoes Approach Notes: After three summits and several attempts of Ruby by different ways, I can honestly say that Happy Creek is the happiest way.

Awesome, thanks for posting! I plan on being there, and made the announcement at the SAC meeting last night....

WOW!!! Kevin put on a stunning show tonight. I am still in awe of the places he has carried his medium format camera, usually solo. I had thought I had been to many areas of the North Cascades, it turns out that I am just a tourist. Thanks again Kevin!

Just a reminder that this is tomorrow night!!! Hope to see many of you there .. .