JasonG

Trip: Sharkfin Tower - South Ridge/SE Face Date: 9/24/2011 Trip Report: I can't believer there aren't any TRs in the database for this fine, though small, Boston Basin gem. It might not be as impressive as some of it's big neighbors, but it certainly is a "gas" to climb and easily done in one day (meaning no permit shenanigans). Of course, though this peak is guided quite a bit, I felt honored to be led to the top by one of the finest UIAGM certified alpine guides anywhere in the world: Gordo Fausto- Given his reputation, Gordo was somewhat alarmed when we pulled up at the trailhead to find it full. He explained that in Europe it was not uncommon for his groupies to mob trailheads, delaying climbs by several hours while he signed autographs. As this was his first climb in the states, thankfully he does not yet have this complication. It is only a matter of time though. Throughout the day he demonstrated why he is such a celebrity in Europe- flawless route finding, impeccable taste in attire, and a wicked yodel meant that I was being led by a modern-day alpine master. Due to his incredible efficiency and disregard for death or injury, we arrived at the summit about 4.5 hours from the car and promptly enjoyed a proper summit meal of salami, cheese, and chocolate. After an ample hour to admire the views, some quick down climbing brought us to the first rap station and a choice: head down, or do a very steep rappel off the ridge and climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson. As the climb to this point had been a bit banal by Chamonix standards, Gordo insisted we rap and climb the impeccable slab. Though we only had time for the upper of the two pitches, it was grand- highly recommended. It had a bit of lichen so could use some more traffic- call Gordo and go for it! Here are some pictures from Gordo's North Cascades debut: "What do you mean there are no lifts?" NF of Buckner, still in fine shape in September. The "exceptional" 2nd pitch, stay right on the crest for maximum enjoyment. Boston Gl. Forbidden! Eldorado and Torment! This view reminded Gordo of his beloved Weisshorn Glacier Peak and Mt. Formidable J'Berg and Quien Sabe Gl. Looking at the lower part of the 1st and upper part of the 2nd bonus pitches. Magnifico! Changing weather on the hike out: Gear Notes: Light rack, 60m half rope, crampons, axe, Gordo Approach Notes: BB trail, break off to Quien Sabe glacier at the lower camp. Find the obvious gully (no, really) below the summit and follow it up towards the perched snowfield. Where the gully forks, stay left, then head right across the snowfield to the prominent notch. Climb near the ridge. If you want to climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson, bring rock shoes, and rap from a prominent horn at the top of the 2nd pitch.

My understanding is that it is near High Pass....with a view towards the Pleiades.

Wow, even with lots of snow, I wouldn't have thought the route to still be in good shape. Thanks for the report!

What a fitting memorial plaque, I love the piton anchors! Dallas would be proud. Gord and I did a climb in memory of him yesterday; I can hardly believe it has been a year already.

Wow, BACK to Muir at 0400? Sounds like quite a story to put in a TR!

Yowza!

Prepare for permit shenanigans.....but I've heard the Edwards Plateau area to be quite nice. You could easily do a loop up the regular trail and come out the Toketie route. Beckey describes the high routes north of the typical corridor....

These guys were probably the best around, but unfortunately closed their doors after the death of their founder....http://www.sahale.com/ Some of the staff have continued on as these guys: http://seattlebridgebuilders.com/ Certainly not free, but they would give you the straight story and are very helpful. Sounds like a cool project!!

Here, here, I'll second that motion. All in favor of TR's in the Kids forum?

Really cool! I have often wondered about that climb.....another reason to train on the rock a bit harder I see.

Wow, that is quite a story- thanks for the link!

Was this a post from the Prince George Tourism Bureau?

Nice, Nice, Nice! This has been on my list for some time, and you helped remind me that I need to make it a priority one of these years before I get too old (how old is that anyway?). Well written, excellent photos, a fine TR added to the database.

Thanks much for your work on this site, it is fantastic!! One minor issue I have noticed is that sometimes the search feature causes Firefox to crash. Doesn't seem to be the case with IE though. Haven't tried it with Chrome....

Wow. That is an impressive two day effort!

Thanks Drew!!

Trip: Mt. Sloan - NE ridge Date: 9/10/2011 Trip Report: dR and I had been talking for years about a September trip up to the Hurley, but somehow it never happened- until this weekend. Leaving work a bit early on Friday, I raced home, threw the gear in the civic and pointed it north. The border wait was basically nonexistent, and soon I was loading my gear into dR's car for the slow crawl to North Van to meet Neil and his Pathfinder (a 4WD HC is highly recommended). Then we drove, and drove, and drove. It's a long drive! I think we didn't arrive at the TH till about 11:00pm, 8 hours after leaving my house (included a few shorts stops and lots of Vancouver traffic- the drive home was about 6.5 hours with a dinner stop). McLane's/Gunn's directions are just fine, though in the dark we second guessed ourselves a bit. The road to the TH is rapidly growing in with alder, so it is probably best to get on this in the next couple of years unless they do more logging back in there. Anyway, a short few hours sleep and we were up at 5 and away a little after six the next morning. We stumbled upon a flagged rough trail at the upper corner of a cut block (basically in line with the peak from where you park) that took us to the lower lake. From their we followed faint game trails up to the ridge and started scrambling . .. and scrambling, and scrambling. As a matter of fact, we never roped up, preferring to bypass the jagged fifth class bits with short traverses below the ridge crest (in the interest of speed, it is a long ridge). I think this is probably the most enjoyable way to do it (much lighter packs, though we didn't enjoy this benefit). The rock was usually quite good, making for fun, scenic scrambling. We reached the summit in about 5.5 hours after leaving the cars and took a long break to admire the fine views. I knew basically none of the peak names, but hopefully some of you Canadians can help out with the captions below. It is a great vantage! We descended the class three gully described in Gunn's scrambles book, which went quickly, and soon we were at the upper lake contemplating the bash back to the car. Luckily, there is another flagged trail on the east side of Ault creek that takes you to the lower lake. Here it diverges from the newer trail and keeps heading down the east side of the valley. We followed it for a bit past the lower lake, thinking we would just cut across the creek when opposite the truck. Bad idea. A better plan would be to bushwack around the lake and join the new trail on it's NW side. I think it was about 10.5 hours car to car, at a reasonable pace- taking lots of photos and breaks. I would highly recommend this scramble, and here's some of the reason why: Scrambling low down on the ridge: Looking south: The truck is just visible above the climber: Final bit of the ridge below the summit: Fun scrambling!: The impressive North Face of Samson. It is on list!: The summit: The view SW to Samson, Sessel, and many others: The view west to??: North to Gun and Downton Lakes: The view NW to ??: Descending the class 3 gully: Massive split boulder above upper Ault lake: Don't take this "shortcut": A welcome sight at the end of a hot day: Gear Notes: Helmet, ice axe and crampons in early season. Approach Notes: Follow McLane and Gunn

Ha Ha!! I was going to email you Kit, but you beat me to it. I remember hearing about you losing that thing....

Cool! A great line done in perfect style. Thanks for sharing an AK TR, I think it is great that more and more folks are posting their TRs from outside the Cascades. Keep em' coming!

Strong work, I'm impressed. The west face of South Gunsight is way back in there, steep, and (as you found) a bit chossy. The South face on Dome is so good looking! I bet it will be seeing more traffic thanks to you four. . . .Thanks for opening it up!

Stop it. Why do you torture us so? Scenery, splitter cracks, and a glamorous woman? Have some kids already, and scale it back a few notches like the rest of us.

Val- Franklin describes the best descent from the summit (gullies to the south of the west ridge). You can traverse across low on the south side of the peak to intersect the Fisher Creek trail.

That Mammut sling was there and we rapped off it to the south (looked pretty new at the time). While it will never be mistaken for Gunsight, the rock on the crest of the east ridge is not too bad and certainly better than the rock just a short ways to either side (especially in the gullys). I would recommend the route and descent the way we did it- your TR got me thinking that it might be time to head back and climb the north ridge! Dan- Thanks for the tidbit about the last grizzly, cool trivia!

We carried over Mesahchie a couple of years ago and I quite liked the east ridge. We pretty much stayed on the crest the whole way (simul climbing), with one short rappel at some point (we were in the fog the whole time). From the summit, the best way off is to down climb to the col (good bivies) with Katsuk (Holyoke) and wrap around and down into the Fisher Creek trail. A climb back up over Easy pass completes it. A very cool mountain, in a great position. You will be back.

Ah yes, a day spent riding the . Terry Tate would be proud, strong work!