JasonG

Hmmmm. Good point Oleg. I had forgotten about the leader fall. There is hard terrain immediately on either side of the weakness I went up, so maybe they were close, but not exactly right on. It felt a bit harder than 5.4, but wasn't 5.8. We wore rock shoes though so maybe if you were in boots....

It would have been a good consolation prize though! From the col camp it is a quick ascent and very fun climbing.

No, this is climber's right of the normal route. Other side of the mountain from where you were. I saw that variation Tom and was wondering how it went. Thanks for the info! That moat does indeed get very bad late in the season. We rapped over it coming down from the buttress, but you couldn't have climbed up it.

I disagree Oleg. I think they were right on, at least that is where we went. You go up a shallow gully on the edge of the slabs and when it turns into a nasty chimney thing, you hang a hard left and climb up a depression to the buttress crest. At least that is how I remember it. We certainly has a lot of disagreement in our party though. I insisted, and took the sharp end to see what came of my choice. It turned out work really well, but wasn't completely obvious from below. Too bad about the climb and ensuing shenanigans, that sounds like quite the frustrating trip. That's a long way to haul the gear!

Canon T1i with the kit lenses, nothing fancy or expensive.

Thanks for the report, I've wanted to climb Larrabee but was put off by the chossy nature of it (was thinking a winter ski would be the ticket). Not that the route you climbed sounds amazing, but maybe preferable to the standard?

Awesome! All this glowing talk of the route makes me want to visit it again....

I think someone would have to pay me $10K to climb hood in August! I guess that wouldn't leave much to give to an organization though... Kidding aside, that's great you were able to survive and raise some funds for a cause. What was the charity?

Finally, a topic that is spray worthy!

I'm curious if there is some indication that this has happened before? It seemed to be perched rather precariously . . .

So if you didn't reach the summit, you can't write a TR? Or, you have to at least try and reach a summit before you can write a TR? Whatever happened to keeping the TR's spray free? Sheesh, leave the guy alone. Many of us may not be into the mountain running thing, but it certainly isn't inappropriate for cc.com given a lot of the garbage that gets posted here. Strong work Leor!

While I don't doubt smaller class sizes would help matters, have class sizes changed much over the decades (say post 1960)? The reason I ask is that many college professors (Cliff Mass is probably way more vocal than most) lament the loss of proficiency in math and science in incoming freshman in the last 10-15 years. I'm trying to understand what is driving this trend (or are they imagining things?).... Scott, Ivan, and others who are teachers, what do you most attribute the trend of declining student performance in the math and sciences? Teaching to the test? Poor curricula? Increasing lack of parental support? Or? I have two young boys who will entering the public system in a couple years so I am starting to take notice of these things. Thanks!

Since the NPS "cleaned" a bunch of the rap slingage, do you need to use two ropes or will a single 60 still work? When I did it 10 years ago, a single 60m half rope worked great. Thanks for the reminder about this fantastic route, I need to hit it again!

Excellent work Tom! I passed thru that area in 2001 (started at Green Mtn. and exited via Mutchler/Chaval). I remember it as being quite rugged, so the solo outing is impressive! I noted that we were the 30th ascent party on Buckindy, doesn't sound like many more in the years since. I remember we turned around on Misch due to time and looseness..... I hear you on those old registers, I really think they are one of the coolest aspects of obscure peak bagging. So far I'd have to say that one you turned me onto, on Asa peak, is the coolest. Agnes and Buckindy are right up there as well!

Nice work pulling that off in two days!! That is a bunch of work, any way you cut it. Wayne- The south face is steep enough that it would feel pretty tedious if snowy. I think autumn is best - bring your fishing rod (and fixings to cook fish) and spend a couple nights at Jerry lakes. And descend the south face after climbing the east ridge (a very under rated climb/scramble, quite excellent!). That area is one of my favorites, though the south face itself is pretty unpleasant.

You mean mandatory military service? Seems to work well for a lot of countries. The politicians might think longer about sending the boys (and girls) overseas when it is actually their kids they are sending. RE: Quality of education. There is no substitute for spending time with your kids. It seems like many parents today would like the schools to raise and educate their kids. Personally, I think we would see test scores and many other things in society improve if one parent stayed at home or worked very part-time. Drive an old car, consume less, move to a smaller place, whatever you have to do. The best teachers in the world often fail if the kids aren't getting support/direction/encouragement/time at home. I think Jim already nailed this, but it bears repeating.

Wow, I'd forgotten about that trip. Crowder twice! OK, great info, thanks!

I'd often wondered about the traverse of Mystery and Pioneer ridges, now I don't have any excuse! Thanks for all the detailed beta, I have put it on the list. Sounds like the crux (as expected) is the descent off Crowder....and that you pretty much went the only feasible way down (NE ridge)? I have to say that those images/vantage points are some of the most jaw dropping I have seen in the Cascades, and I feel like I have seen most corners. That alone is reason to visit sooner rather than later. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Yikes, that is some dangerous looking terrain. Glad everything worked out!

Ah....the snaffle treatment. No summit bivy is complete without packrat battle royale. Excellent images as always! Impressive!

Now that is an area you don't see photos from too often! Thanks for the Slesse shots, a great perspective on the peak. It is amazing how steep it is on all sides, I can't think of too many other peaks that compare locally. It figures that Kevin was there, he has really sought out the most obscure recesses of the Cascades-usually solo.

Perfecto! I found the route fun as well, and am glad that our TR may have helped steer you in the right direction. That notch is not very friendly- We felt that we wimped out by dropping down, but sounds like others agree that it looks pretty sketch to start on the crest. It is certainly a great moderate route, and easy to find solitude on a busy weekend. Glad to hear that the PCT approach is recommended. I will have to go back and try it that way.

Interesting project! I'm not so sure about pikas, but my experience is that the snaffles are doing just fine in NCNP. I can only hope that climate change will take them out.

Otherwise known as the "prison years".

Sharkfin Tower! Great rock, amazing position. Ditto on the Sulphide, but finish with the SE ridge of the summit pyramid. It doesn't get much better than that for an easy alpine climb. A bunch of other great suggestions already . . .