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mikebromberg

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About mikebromberg

  • Rank
    stranger
  • Birthday 08/22/1983

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  • Location
    Revelstoke, BC
  1. FS: Scarpa Rebel GTX 45

    They don't offer these in North America. Bought them in Europe. They are like a trango S but lighter. Same weight as the cube but more flexible and comfy. $275 shipped. Ayhow, I am sad to see them go, but they just don't fit my feet well enough. Used for about 7 days. [img:center]http://www.scarpa.net/en/all-scarpa/products/mountain-elite/rebel-gtx/rebel-gtx-g.jpg[/img] email for actual pics mikebromberg At me dot com . thanks
  2. 3-layer 30D Tegraltex FR vs. 3-layer 15D eVentĀ®

    Thanks. Durability is less important than breathability. Being flame retardant is probably the least important factor in my opinion.
  3. quiver killers?

    I have the quiver killers on several pairs of skis and have had fairly good success. One pair has tech binding/alpine binding mount another pair has tech binding/heavy AT binding mount. Ultimately, I wouldn't go for the "multiple bindings same ski" mount again, but would do the "one pair of bindings, different skis" type of configuration. For instance, if you had a winter ski and a spring ski and wanted to use the same set of bindings. Another great use of them would be to quiver killer a tech binding toe piece mount onto a splitboard. Anyway, I've installed with both a hand drill and a drill press and have mounted by enlarging old holes and doing fresh mounts with a jig and the wider insert sized drill bit. I made a wood block jig for the wide bit for enlarging with a hand drill, which I found really helps to get a good straight wide hole for the insert without the need for a drill press. I also found that tapping by hand was easier than using a drill press. I've found that the screws will loosen despite using red loctite, but after re-tightening they generally hold tight. When installed properly in good quality planks (ie decent quality wood core skis) these inserts are very strong and create a watertight alternative to a heli-coil. So rob, the answer to your question is "yes" this would be a great way to maximize your binders. But, in the end the cost and time of installing the qk's into two sets of skis and switching bindings at night when you decide you want to ski the shuksans it would probably be worth buying another set of bindings...
  4. Does anyone have first hand experience with the difference of these two fabrics? "FR" is a fire retardant version, Event is known for being excellent. Is the FR tegraltex that much worse?
  5. nice one! some of the best rock in the area for sure.
  6. Nice! I'm glad you guys are pumped on the Selkirks and the TR's. The bugaboos sound like they are in great shape, these are all great options for quick alpine missions on the way too and from western WA.
  7. Trip: Uto, Eagle, Avalanche, Rogers Pass, BC - SE-NW Traverse Date: 7/4/2013 Trip Report: Because I had such a nice outing on Canada Day exploring Mt Tupper a few days prior and because I need to continue the "terrain familiarization" tour of Rogers Pass while conditions are favorable favourable, TBAM and I headed up for the Uto-Eagle-Avalanche traverse on Rogers Pass. [img:center]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3797/9234489547_6d95fd311d.jpg[/img] An early morning start (0230) from Revelstoke, burrito number one, and a nice casual approach on trail led us to the Sir Donald/Uto col. Sir D (Syndicate Peak) looks like, and is reported to be, in fine climbing shape (see below). [img:center]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5486/9234491861_1386960ccb.jpg[/img] Eager for mileage on good rock, we set off up the SE Ridge of Uto Peak. Excellent alpine quartzite and some really nice views and exposure the whole way to the summit. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2870/9237276336_c6e3ecd51d.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3741/9237277846_5ede392ee2.jpg[/img] We climbed to the top of Uto Peak by 7am. It was here I ate my second burrito of the day b4 we continued on and down the NW ridge of Uto to the Uto/Eagle col. Uto/Eagle col is some kind of contact between excellence and choss where we encountered the end of alpine rock greatness and encountered something less than fantastic. [img:center]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/9237279246_aba8de12d8.jpg[/img] We marched up to the top of Eagle Peak on choss and snow, then relaxed on top about 2 hours later. Here is my partner arriving on top in #instagram fourth of july style with Syndicate Peak (isn't that a better name?) in the background. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/9237282098_ef4819622e.jpg[/img] Descending the NW Ridge of Eagle Peak was not fun. We brought along a tiny glorified cordalette of a rope and used it twice to make 2 mini rappels. I would expect that a longer cord would help alleviate some of the misery of this portion of Eagle Peak, of course it could be even more dangerous to pull a long rope through all of that loose rock. [img:center]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5516/9237284370_80c85b6c1e.jpg[/img] The chossy ridge on Eagle with Uto and Syndicate behind. [img:center]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3810/9237286268_5b370eb7b3.jpg[/img] Three hours after lounging on the summit of Eagle, we arrived on top of Avalanche Mountain. I drank a lukewarm can of coke on the summit. It was fantastic. The Abbot-Afton-Todd'sHead-Dome-Jupiter-YoungsPeak traverse is partially showing in the background and can be combined with this traverse by following Abbot-Afton-Done-Castor-Pollux-Leda-Youngs-Illecillawaet-terminal-sirD-Uto-Eagle-Avalanche for a mega traverse around the entire Asulkan/Illecillewaet cirque. I'm not sure if the megatraverse has been done in a single push, but someone should give it a shot. Anyhow, we descended via Avalanche Bowl and the Avalanche Crest trail before I consumed my third burrito and we eventually made it back home to Revelstoke 13.5 hours after we left. All in all, this was a really nice high alpine traverse. Lots of scrambing beyond the best part, Uto Traverse (SE-NW ridges). The Uto traverse would be a fantastic afternoon climb after hiking into camp for a Sir Donald attempt and I'm sure it is most often done as such... Approach Notes: Approach on trail to the Sir Donald/Uto col bivy site.
  8. Grivel Easy Slider 2.0?

    yup. that works well. Grivel even includes this when you buy the slider.
  9. Trip: Mt Tupper, Rogers Pass, BC - South Rib D 5.8, West Ridge PD 5.3-5.6 Date: 7/1/2013 Trip Report: The striking South rib of Mt Tupper rises over 800m from it's base in the South Rib couloir to it's intersection with the West ridge near the summit. Since the weather on Canada Day (July 1) was perfect, we decided a nice long day in the hills would be appropriate. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2812/9224075971_e9cc504c23.jpg[/img] Despite the fact that the beautiful stepped buttress continues from the large traversing ledge below the summit pyramid, the original South Rib route (Jones/Spellman '72) escapes Westward and gains the West Ridge at a point just below the Hermit Gendarme. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/9218157107_f42ac6b444.jpg[/img] Following the first technical pitch, a nice 5.8 double crack. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2863/9218158869_b2dd2120b2.jpg[/img] The second "5.8" pitch was a stout layback corner. [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/9220933230_7cf3f74b9a.jpg[/img] The South Rib above the first two more technical pitches. From here the route should follow the path of least resistance. Many parties (us included) were suckered into much harder climbing nearer to the ridge crest. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2806/9220932590_8fe4906de9.jpg[/img] Nice looking stone on the rib between the South Rib (D 5.8) and the South Buttress (TD 5.10+). According to the 2012 Rogers Pass Alpine Guide by David P. Jones, this wishbone feature that feeds into the South Buttress has yet to be climbed. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/9218160799_0a779209d3.jpg[/img] We had high hopes to climb the magnificent looking rock on the upper summit pyramid, but decided not to strike out into unknown (and reportedly super tough) upper rib. [img:center]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/9218161473_0d6a5d5176.jpg[/img] The 1965 Tupper Corner (Becky/Fuller) tackles a steep corner right of center at a terrifying 5.9 A3. [img:center]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/9218165325_c6271794f2.jpg[/img] After a nice extended brake marveling at the upper pitches, we travelled down and generally west before climbing back up to the Hermit gendarme. [img:center]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5339/9218172291_908ee55680.jpg[/img] The Hermit Gendarme [img:center]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/9218169655_52b13ceaf7.jpg[/img] Nice airy climbing on the West ridge. [img:center]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/9220941486_dc928c5543.jpg[/img] Final stretch to the summit, and finally a long descent down to Rogers Pass via Hermit Meadows. [img:center]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/9220950512_63c762e9ff.jpg[/img] Nice views of Mt Tupper from the trail down to the highway. All in all a nice long day in the hills with plenty of fantastic views to keep us going. Approach Notes: Park just West of the first snowshed East of Rogers Pass. Ascend the South Rib couloir by first following a short doubletrack road then the main drainage/couloir climbers right of the South Rib for roughly 700m before gaining the South Rib.
  10. I imagine that descending the Herdman couloir without snow would be a long, tedious and hard on the knees. A little bit of suffering aside, I'm sure it would still 'go' later in the season.
  11. I'd say that it has more sustained and harder climbing than the NW ridge of Sir D.
  12. Trip: Mount Macdonald, Rogers Pass, BC - Northwest Ridge Integral D+ 5.8 Date: 6/16/2013 Trip Report: If you fancy long alpine ridge climbs with short approaches, you might enjoy Mt. Macdonald's Northwest ridge. We certainly did. The NW Ridge is gained via 600m of easy snow climbing up the Herdman Couloir, before a rising traverse of 4th and easy 5th class climbing leads to the upper of two "prominent notch"(es) of the Northwest ridge. From here, follow the ridge of good to excellent quality quartzite to the summit roughly 1000m later. Approaching with the Trans Canada Highway below. Alpine Quartzite. The upper headwall seen from the Promenade Ledge. The NW ridge climbs the right skyline. It looks like this at it's base This was a nice pitch. The summit pyramid. Alpine splendor: Syndicate Peak and the Dawson Range behind Mt Tupper, the Swiss Peaks, Mt Rogers and more alpine splendor. Despite being the birthplace of North American mountaineering and widely known as a winter destination, the Rogers Pass sees surprisingly little alpinist traffic. I've climbed a fair amount of moderate alpine routes, both in North America and in the alps, and I can say confidently that this route is in my top 10. Gear Notes: There is a fantastic new guidebook for the pass- "Rogers Pass Alpine Guide" by David P Jones . This is the "Centennial Edition" to the original 1912 guidebook to the Selkirk Mountains by Wheeler and Parker which was North America's First mountaineering guidebook. Approach Notes: From the picnic area just West of the Westernmost snowshed, travel downstream (East) 75m past the outhouse and find a gun position for winter avalanche control. From here descend to Connaught creeka and cross via a downed spruce spanning the torrent. Continue East and eventually uphill following a rocky stream bed to reach the Herdman Couloir.
  13. it is. Although I've never climbed Gap Falls myself, you?
  14. Trip: Three Valley Gap Tourist Wall (Revelstoke, BC) - Locomotive (.10c) Date: 6/12/2013 Trip Report: "Locomotive" at the Tourist Wall above the (in)famous Three Valley Gap hotel. "Locomotive" consists of 4 really nice 5.10- pitches of edgy, bolt protected rock climbing. The wall comes into the shade at about 330 this time of year. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/photo_216.JPG[/img] View from the top of pitch2. You can see the grassy terrace below. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/photo_312.JPG[/img] Starting Pitch 3 Gear Notes: 13 quickdraws, a 60m rope (other routes on the tourist wall may require additional protection). Ruedi Beglinger's "Revelstoke Rocks" Guidebook Approach Notes: 20km West of Revelstoke on the Trans Canada Highway, Drive through the arch in between the 'Ghost Town' and the hotel at Three Valley Gap. The wall is located between two waterfalls as pictured and is accessed by crossing a small creek (logs) then crossing the railroad tracks (horsing around strictly prohibited) before hiking 5 mins up a rocky wash until finally veering slightly left into an alcove with a right facing corner and a line of bolts. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/photo_47.JPG[/img] <- Revelstoke|TCH 1|Sicamous-> Three Valley Gap hotel. You can see my red truck at the recommended parking below. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/photo_54.JPG[/img] The Tourist Wall is the darker wall to the right of the large beige water streak. (partially obscured by trees- sorry) After the initial approach pitch (shared by all three routes on the wall)Locomotive follows the center line of bolts from the terrace belay atop pitch 1. Descent Notes: Rappel the route (<30m for each rappel).
  15. Intro to CC.com

    that will have to do.
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