JasonG

Strong work!!! I will order a copy for sure. Thanks for keeping Dallas's dream alive and improving on it. Again, many thanks!!

Thanks for the detailed review! A couple questions/thoughts: No insulated hydration sleeve? This seems problematic for the winter. Only one snack pocket on the hip belt? Seems like the wet stuff is packed with the rest of your stuff, without a way to get to it separately from the rest of your gear? Can you cram skins in that same pouch with the shovel? Personally I much prefer the style of the BD Revelation. But, like most good packs, they've stopped making the non Avalung version. Still, you can find them online for not much. A little bigger than the Cilo pack, but I've found it often welcome when carrying an SLR and climbing gear. I've had it for a few years, and I've yet to see anything I like better. It's a fantastic ski pack.

Right, crampons. I forgot that most folks don't know how to put crampons on and wouldn't see the potential mis-match coming before their trip. Still, if they are that clueless, I sure wouldn't trust their self arrest or crampon skills to be up to the Old Chute.

A person's choice of boots won't help all that much if they don't know what they're doing.

If you tell me whose initials are written on it, I will get it back to you. Found around 5500' below the Squak on 6/22 in the late afternoon.

I guess there is utility is being able to save maps locally, but for trip planning purposes, I haven't found anything even close to as good as the free Gmap4 site. It is a pretty amazing collection of high res. maps with the ability to zoom in quickly using the search function. The coverage is seamless for all of Canada and the US as well. I think most folks know about it, but I never pass up an opportunity to sing the site's praises. I'm impressed, and use it weekly for all my trip planning.

Ah, I admire your ability to tantalize and preserve the mystery. It does look "direct" on the map. I guess I will have to figure out for myself someday. A friend of the family climbed the West peak with his boy scout troop, in '49 if I remember correctly. Or was it '39? Anyway, a long time ago, and he still remembers it well, though not with much fondness. Something about sucking on prune pits.

Good points, I wouldn't want to hose a nice shell or something with it. Might be great for a backpack though. I wonder if there would there be any concern spraying this on a rope?

Wow, now there is a peak that doesn't see many ascents! How was the thrash from the valley bottom?

For $20, I would give it a shot. I wonder if it changes the breathability of the fabric it is sprayed on? Pretty interesting that it is at Home Depot and not a gear store, nothing like economies of scale to bring the price down.

I'm certainly looking forward to the TR, WOW! And, I loved Lowell's cache retrieving TR on TAY - such great history. I didn't even know about the Gilbert cabin, though I must have driven by it a hundred times over the years.

An interesting read, thanks!

Wow, that looks really fun! Is this an early season route, to take advantage of snow in the gully? Thanks for the report, I've added it to the list (and added the guidebook to my Christmas list).

Your and Trish's endearing enthusiasm almost makes me think I could go down and climb some of these pitches. You guys make a pile of hard climbing look like a moderate romp- a fun read, thanks!

You didn't know? The NSA specifically hired John to keep tabs on the most nefarious members of our local climbing community. Don't worry, they haven't armed his plane yet.

A bold solo, well done! An excellent read too, Lincoln's reputation remains intact.

Wow, that is an impressive effort for your kids (and you herding them along)! Inspiring, as I have two boys, 3 & 5. who I try to get out in the hills as much as possible.

Excellent! I love that climb. When you get your first view of Cruiser, you think that there is no way that it could be easy fifth class. Such a memorable trip!

"Jam those hands Dave, keep jamming those hands".

Way to open the season on this! Did you find double raps to be worth the effort? I've heard to limit it to singles to minimize stuckage, but you would know.

Great story and images! I'm far too lazy for these sorts of adventures, but I do admire the style.

Thanks! John, you probably know Hozo better than most anyone. I've always loved your images of both peaks, but especially this one.

More importantly, has anyone climbed the landslide direct?? With modern tools and some pickets, it should go. Don't scoop me.

Ah Ha, that isn't very intuitive, but quite interesting. Thanks for the correction!

Trip: North Hozomeen - NE ridge Date: 6/3/2013 Trip Report: North Hozomeen! The photo above was taken several years ago on a trip up the South Peak with Tim and Gord. It has hung on my wall in the intervening years and I have looked at that right hand skyline and wondered. Beckey makes it sound pretty mellow, and it was first climbed nearly one hundred years ago, but it is Hozomeen, and that name deserves respect in my experience. While not quite as hard as the South Peak, the North Peak does make an impression in early season, and we had a memorable climb. It started with the deadline nearing for Scott's return to the Bering sea for a summer of sodden toil on the fishing grounds. He really wanted to go for South Hozomeen, but Gordo and myself couldn't be convinced, perhaps the North peak would suffice? With the destination set, we met at Timmy's across from Sumas and flew up the Fraser at the usual Gordo pace. The road to upper Ross lake went faster than expected as well due to recent grading, and we found ourselves stashing beer in the US before hopping across the bordering and following the swath up, up, up to our high camp. Around 5000' we left the swath for an obvious drainage that led to a high col very near the peak. We found a remarkably perfect spot to pitch the Hilleberg and settled in for a damper than expected evening. We really hoped for the forecasted clearing! It was about 5 hours to camp. The next day came early, warm, and overcast. Hmmmmmm. We headed up, through the notch, and down into the basin on the north side of the peak. Here, we had a couple of options. The easiest way would be to go up the ski line pioneered by Sky et al., but we had a rope and rack and Gordo! We were going for something more fitting of our uber alpine guide, so we traversed left to the start of the NE ridge. I took a look at the slimy, loose, and unprotectable start and told Gordo he had this pitch. After he brought us up, Scott took the sharp end for a bit before coming back to the belay due to more of the above. I declined the lead, once again, and suggested that maybe the ski line would be not such a bad way to go after all? Gordo was having none of it. He promptly took that rack and set off, finding two somewhat OK pieces in 100+ feet of wet, slimy, fourth/low-fifth. I'm glad we had him along! The rest of the ridge was lower angle, but very exposed with fine alpine flavor. A snow arete led to a very exposed 3rd/4th class section before another corniced arete that finished on the lonely summit. We dug around for a couple minutes and produced the brass register (unfortunately a rarity these days) place by Don Goodman in 1992. Interestingly, the last entry was by Colin and Dylan, from their aborted Zorro face trip last summer. We had a good time reading through the entries, about 1-2 per year or so, waiting for the views to open up. The clouds looked like they were going to lift, but never really did, making for a dramatic day overall. I would have like to see a bit more, especially a good view of the north face of South Hozomeen. After an hour on the summit we carefully backed down the upper NE face, which was straightforward, except for a thin bit a third of the way down. We should have had our crampons on, but it went OK. Glissading and booting back to camp was quick and soon we were packing for the steep, hammering descent down the swath. This went pretty smoothly, staying in the swath itself (cleared in the last few years?) or on the Canadian side for most of the way down. The bugs were noticeably worse on the way down, and we hear that they are downright horrendous later in the summer. Early season is key for both peaks of Hozomeen, but you will have the peak to yourself regardless of your chosen date. Neither are "classic" in the traditional sense, but I certainly think both are well worth climbing for the Cascade connoisseur. You won't forget either. Gordo, "We must follow this strange, very wide trail to 5000 feet" Rain showers were the theme of Day 1. Starting out on Day 2: Scott, above the first step and about to tackle the second: Topping out on the second step: The alpine finish to the NE ridge in early season conditions: The summit! Ross lake in the mist: The upper part of the SW buttress. Wild! Carefully descending the NE ridge: With apologies to Sky, bipedal "Hozone Pollution": "You stay on your side, and I'll stay on mine" The Sequester's effects stretch to Ross Lake: Walking out on the dry lake bed to admire North Hozo: 6500' above the car, the top of Hozo's Zorro face rears above the trees: Gear Notes: 60m half rope. Very light rack (you won't be able to place much gear). HELMET. ice axe, etc. Approach Notes: Follow Beckey