JasonG

Such a good show last night, even Fred was there! Way to go Joe and Ben, we missed you Tim!

I can't believe I didn't see this in the events forum. Or, maybe it already is, but it still deserves a huge bump. POOM! Hope to see you there tomorrow.

That R&I piece is more than a bit inflammatory. It would be helpful if an accident analysis was published, because it doesn't seem like the accident was related to the missing bolts, contrary to the title of the article.

"But when the shadowy sun sets on the one That fired the gun He'll see by his grave On the stone that remains Carved next to his name His epitaph plain: Only a pawn in their game."

I would encourage folks (especially those not represented by the above organizations) to get in touch directly with the park superintendent at NCNP to make their views known.

Thanks for the link Darin. Several organizations are following up directly with NCNP on this. Below is the text of a letter that was sent out last week by Joe Sambataro of the Access Fund: November 14, 2013 Karen F. Taylor-Goodrich Superintendent, North Cascades National Park 810 State Route 20 Sedro-Wooley, Washington 98284 RE: Director’s Order #41 and Fixed Anchors in North Cascades National Park Wilderness Dear Superintendent Karen Taylor-Goodrich: In response to your letter dated August 23, 2013 regarding climbing management in North Cascades National Park (North Cascades), the undersigned organizations write to formally request a follow-up meeting to discuss long-term solutions to the temporary moratorium on new fixed anchors in the North Cascades Wilderness. As issued in Director’s Order #41, “the occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel, or protection purposes does not necessarily impair the future enjoyment of wilderness or violate the Wilderness Act.” Not only do fixed anchors fit within the long history of traditional mountaineering and alpine climbing in the North Cascades, their limited use plays a critical role in encouraging safe, environmentally-conscious recreational use. This last point has been especially evident on Forbidden Peak this past year. A balanced approach to recreation management ensures a sustainable future of conservation, local economic benefit, and community support in the region. Climbing Organizations The Access Fund, American Alpine Club, American Mountain Guides Association, The Mountaineers, and the Washington Climbers Coalition are national and Washington State-based climbing advocacy organizations dedicated to climbing access, conservation, advancing the climbing way of life, and advocating for American climbers. The climbing organizations have a long history of working with the National Park Service, including extensive input on Director’s Order #41, and dozens of Service-wide and unit-specific NPS management planning initiatives and stewardship projects around the country including at North Cascades National Park. Conservation Organizations The Wilderness Society, Washington Wild, and Washington Trails Association work towards protecting Washington’s wild lands and waters which provide recreational access, wildlife habitat, healthy watersheds and a unique quality of life for current and future generations. Each of these organizations has a long history in advocating for the designation and management of Wilderness areas and Wild and Scenic Rivers in Washington State. Together, these organizations can support efforts by the National Park Service to develop appropriate wilderness climbing polices for North Cascades National Park, such as a revised Wilderness management plan (with full public participation), a North Cascades climbing management plan, or a case study on Forbidden Peak. This case study could include an assessment of the application of the guidelines provided by Director’s Order #41 and a stand-alone permit under the North Cascades compendium while a larger planning process is pursued. Collectively, we recognize that this process must find an appropriate balance for managing North Cascades’ unique wild lands. Both park managers and the climbing and broader conservation community would benefit from finding common ground that meets the needs of recreational users and the obligations of wilderness managers. In a time when resources are limited for the National Park Service, we can provide critical support and expertise to address these important management concerns. Time is of the essence and we therefore respectfully request a meeting with you, the appropriate North Cascades staff, and representatives of these organizations on one of the following dates:  December 2, 2013  December 6, 2013  December 10, 2013 Please let us know what dates and times work at your earliest convenience. Sincerely, Brady Robinson, Executive Director Access Fund Phil Powers, Executive Director American Alpine Club Betsy Winter, Executive Director American Mountain Guides Association Martinique Grigg, Executive Director The Mountaineers Matt Perkins, Officer Washington Climbers Coalition Karen Daubert, Executive Director Washington Trails Association Jim Hook, Executive Director Washington Wild Kitty Craig, North Cascades Program Manager The Wilderness Society Cc: The Honorable Patty Murray, United States Senate The Honorable Maria Cantwell, United States Senate The Honorable Suzan DelBene, United States House of Representatives Chip Jenkins, Pacific West Region Deputy Regional Director, National Park Service Kinsey Shilling, Chief Ranger, North Cascades National Park

I think you need Brandon's new book! http://www.skagitcrag.com/?page_id=33

I think Twight is gonna be pissed with your superior logic. I, on the other hand, think you've mathematically proven the magic of the internet.

That looks like a great pack, but Millet appears to have ceased production. This highlights a frustration I have with companies and their packs, leave well enough alone! It seems like the ideal design is pretty simple. Change the materials, sure, but keep making something that works!

After how many posts are snarky comments allowed? Am I there yet?

Yowza. That narrows it down a bit. Well done!

As someone who bike commutes regularly during the warmer months (I'm a weenie), I found that NYT piece pretty unsettling. I've lost more friends to climbing than biking, but I'm beginning to wonder which is safer. I very nearly was killed/maimed last summer by some guy in a creeper van who pulled out in front/ on top of me. To think that he could just say "sorry" and walk away is pretty infuriating when I was 100% in the right, it was daylight, and I was wearing a neon jersey. Although I can certainly understand people's frustration with lawless bikers (I've felt that way at times while driving), mostly I get the sense from the "outrage" that most folks have absolutely no idea what its like to be a bike commuter. Bikes aren't killing and maiming people on a regular basis, so what's the big deal with your "out of control biker problem"? Cite the yahoos leave the rest of us alone. Most of us are just trying to survive and get some exercise. The anger really baffles me.

Ah.... November.

I've yet to destroy a camera in the hills, and I always take a camera. In the old film days this wasn't too hard to accomplish, but I have to admit that I have been surprised how durable cheap digital cameras are. I've had good luck with Canons. I think I switched from slides to a dslr about 2008. On long rock climbs I have a small digital P&S on my shoulder strap, on easier terrain I have a dslr in a chest case, skiing too. That said, when it is raining or snowing heavily I tend to put the dslr away. Mostly you are whited out anyways and the photo opportunities are limited. As you can imagine, water and shock are the two things to avoid. My chest pack is pretty much water and shockproof (within reason). I always throw my neck strap on too when I have it out of my pack, it has saved me from dropping the camera a long ways a couple of times.

What was the time on yer enchantments solo CJB?

Thanks guys. I guess I could have done some research, but this was more educational in the end. Like the tidbit about yurts!

FW posted this up on another thread and I found it interesting: The Wilderness Act 1964: Section 4c - Prohibition of Certain Uses: Except as specifically provided for in this Act, and subject to existing private rights, there shall be no commercial enterprise and no permanent road within any wilderness area designated by this Act and, except as necessary to meet minimum requirements for the administration of the area for the purpose of this Act. . . I'm guessing that there is some sort of court decision defining "commercial enterprise"? Obviously guiding is prevalent in Wilderness areas (and isn't hidden from the NPS or USFS), so I was curious how that fit in with the above portion of the Act.

I can verify that Alex and Jens were going fast on Slesse! They blew by us on the upper pitches, simuling everything, while we were happily pitching it out. It was cool to watch.

Trip: Darrington- Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy to Pitch 11 Date: 10/28/2013 Trip Report: Excessive Approach Beta Warning You'd think with the excellent information out there about Slab Daddy that the approach would be somewhat idiot proof. Although, after leading Caleb on the Squire Creek scenic tour earlier this week I'm afraid to say that no, no it isn't. At least not for this idiot. Caleb and I had traded emails for more than a year, looking to get out together. He climbs a great deal harder than myself, but luckily he recently retired from crushing, and was ready to stoop to my level. With Indian summer in full effect I convinced him to make the drive south, he had never climbed at Darrington! I did a bit of research (not enough) and figured the first half of Slab Daddy would be a fine outing for us to get to know each other, see some big trees, and climb a few pitches. In the end, this turned out to be true, but we took the long way. What is usually a 1.25 hour approach, we turned into a 4.5 hour tour, as we walked too far up the road, crossed the creek in the wrong spot, and wandered way up on a good climber's path to the Illusion wall (?). At least we had time to get to know each others' back stories. Once we realized our error, it wasn't too hard to retrace our steps to the road and down valley to the correct turn off. Soon we were matching the trail to the description and huffing it up the beautiful old growth to the base of the route. Steppy, fun climbing with good anchors leads upwards to the aptly named Balcony Bivy and our high point for the day. While the full 22 pitches of Slab Daddy will appeal to some, I think many would enjoy the first 11 pitches and I would recommend this climb to folk looking beyond the typical 3 O'clock, Exfo, Green Giant routes. Thanks David and Co. for putting it up! Here are some photos so you won't make the same mistake we did. You want to see this rock at the stream crossing: Looking upstream from the correct crossing: Once you cross the stream you will be here looking up the swath to Slab Daddy. It ascends the prominent water stream in the center right of the photo. The climber's path heads out left through the ferns into the big timber: Gear Notes: Mainly draws (14) to top of Pitch 11. Small rack if want some gear for the scrambling and low fifth class part that is a pitch or two long. Two ropes for descending. Helmet. You may want sandals depending on stream flows. We were able to rock hop Approach Notes: Don't follow us. Look for the obvious trail a few hundred feet past debris flow/creek about a half mile past major landslide (no culvert, nor cedar foot bridge). David's description from there is spot on.

Such a fantastic TR, thanks! You can really see the camaraderie in the photos, looks like you guys had a fun trip. In general, good weather too? I seem to remember that SE AK had quite the summer?

That is amazingly fast. I would be happy to get to the top in six hours, let alone round trip. Those clouds are beautiful, post some more pics!

Thanks John, fascinating! There was also an event in 2010. I was up on Anderson Butte with the family and took this photo in early September of that year: When that thing goes, the scale is pretty incredible.

It's been my experience that you do not want to mess with those who have less to lose than you. It's easy to talk tough, but coming face to face with a tweaker in full tweak is one of the scariest things I've ever seen. I don't envy the police.

Well done! I have to admit that I was somewhat surprised that the route was back in such good shape. Absolutely beautiful. Ah, youth!

Spray can be surprisingly educational. Philatelist indeed.