JasonG

If we move to a single payer system, we're going to have to keep a close eye on those Russkies.

I agree that the spacing is closer than most of us North Americans use, but these folks knew the fall was coming so they were somewhat ready. Although, they tested the downhill pull, which is worst case. However, I would think that in most cases, the lead person is the one that is going to go in, and the arrestor would be facing them. But, I have never been involved in a full crevasse fall (roped, one time I fell all the way in unroped - D'oh!), just the occasional leg punch. Two people roped together on a tricky glacier is certainly cutting the margin thin, unless there are other teams nearby.

http://gearjunkie.com/crazy-crevasse-falling-video Yowza.

Actually, yes. Greed is a powerful motivator. And this is not some fringe idea - most companies are adopting financial incentives (or "fines") to encourage employees to adopt healthier lifestyles. More importantly, it works: http://jama.jamanetwork.com/article.aspx?articleid=183047 http://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMsa0806819 http://www.forbes.com/sites/brucejapsen/2012/08/08/more-companies-offer-perks-to-lose-pounds-as-incentives-to-stay-healthy-increase/

There will always be bad things that happen to healthy people, but according to the CDC 75% of all health care expenditures in this country are related to chronic illness, many of which are preventable. I think it would certainly be a good idea to put some financial incentives towards eating well and exercising, but I suspect that most would think that this would be too intrusive on the part of gov't.

Did anyone's opinion change through this fun exchange?

"As I went walking I saw a sign there And on the sign it said "No Trespassing." But on the other side it didn't say nothing, That side was made for you and me. "

Leland Windham and others have put up some lines on that SEF of Bears Breast. 4th and low 5th from email exchanges with him, though basically they are free solos as they didn't put in any bolts. Slab with limited gear. I think Pablo from AAI took a client up that Mac Spires gulley in 2009. We ran into them up in the basin and he described a line which may or may not be what you are talking about. The traversed around Little Mac to drop in to the North Side. Sounded a bit spicy, and they got back to camp way late- thankfully all in one piece.

Just like your Eldorado trip, impressively fast!

Get a mortgage, a wife, a few kids, a full time job, and you'll see.

Trip: Peak 7720 - South slope Date: 11/23/2013 Trip Report: November is typically a trying month here in the PNW -too wet/cold/dark for climbing, too warm for skiing. So I have been a bit surprised at the long spell of cold/dry weather we have enjoyed this past week. While ski conditions are still a bit on the bony side, highway 20 is open and that means access to some of the most scenic terrain in the lower 48. Scott, Chuck and myself spent an easy day exploring the north/east side of Rainy pass yesterday and worked our way up to a high point on the ridge between Cutthroat and Whistler. I don't know if there is a name for this point, but it is pretty high and has a fairly distinct summit (the Beckey book doesn't seem to mention it though). It was pretty much class 2/3, and would be skiable right from the very top with a healthier snowpack. We left our skis about 200' below the summit as we valued our bases/edges, and staggered up snow covered scree/talus to the summit ridge. The weather was perfect, and the snow OK, though if we wanted better powder we would have needed to stick to straight north facing slopes (like visible across the valley under Frisco). We were mainly up there for the views and solitude though, and we didn't go home disappointed. It was a great day, and pretty mellow too(~ 5hrs RT and 3K gain), leaving us plenty of time for Canadian Hunter aprés ski. Skagit Alpinism at its finest! Gear Notes: helmet Approach Notes: skis

I imagine that you can find something better than this, but just in case.... I can email you a higher res. version if something better doesn't come along.

These are all good suggestions, especially Ruth (watch for the big crevasse) and Tomyhoi. If you work up to fourth class, I would add Corteo and Shahale to your short list. These both have good climbing and fantastic position. For the largest vertical gain on a trail (6200') in the State head to Crater Mtn. A little bit of class 3, but mostly hiking, if I remember right. A former lookout site, so you can see far and wide. The Monte Cristo range has a lot of fun scrambles as well. The top of my list is the West Ridge of Columbia (good cutthroat fishing in Twin lakes below), but Del Campo, Gothic, Sperry, and Vesper are all worth doing. On your way north from OR, you could climb Pinnacle Peak in the Tatoosh range of MRNP, though it is a short route and often crowded. Great view of the mountain though. And lastly.... If the road is open next summer, you must climb up to the Three Fingers Lookout!

Chinese Downhill awards speech?

Such a good show last night, even Fred was there! Way to go Joe and Ben, we missed you Tim!

I can't believe I didn't see this in the events forum. Or, maybe it already is, but it still deserves a huge bump. POOM! Hope to see you there tomorrow.

That R&I piece is more than a bit inflammatory. It would be helpful if an accident analysis was published, because it doesn't seem like the accident was related to the missing bolts, contrary to the title of the article.

"But when the shadowy sun sets on the one That fired the gun He'll see by his grave On the stone that remains Carved next to his name His epitaph plain: Only a pawn in their game."

I would encourage folks (especially those not represented by the above organizations) to get in touch directly with the park superintendent at NCNP to make their views known.

Thanks for the link Darin. Several organizations are following up directly with NCNP on this. Below is the text of a letter that was sent out last week by Joe Sambataro of the Access Fund: November 14, 2013 Karen F. Taylor-Goodrich Superintendent, North Cascades National Park 810 State Route 20 Sedro-Wooley, Washington 98284 RE: Director’s Order #41 and Fixed Anchors in North Cascades National Park Wilderness Dear Superintendent Karen Taylor-Goodrich: In response to your letter dated August 23, 2013 regarding climbing management in North Cascades National Park (North Cascades), the undersigned organizations write to formally request a follow-up meeting to discuss long-term solutions to the temporary moratorium on new fixed anchors in the North Cascades Wilderness. As issued in Director’s Order #41, “the occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel, or protection purposes does not necessarily impair the future enjoyment of wilderness or violate the Wilderness Act.” Not only do fixed anchors fit within the long history of traditional mountaineering and alpine climbing in the North Cascades, their limited use plays a critical role in encouraging safe, environmentally-conscious recreational use. This last point has been especially evident on Forbidden Peak this past year. A balanced approach to recreation management ensures a sustainable future of conservation, local economic benefit, and community support in the region. Climbing Organizations The Access Fund, American Alpine Club, American Mountain Guides Association, The Mountaineers, and the Washington Climbers Coalition are national and Washington State-based climbing advocacy organizations dedicated to climbing access, conservation, advancing the climbing way of life, and advocating for American climbers. The climbing organizations have a long history of working with the National Park Service, including extensive input on Director’s Order #41, and dozens of Service-wide and unit-specific NPS management planning initiatives and stewardship projects around the country including at North Cascades National Park. Conservation Organizations The Wilderness Society, Washington Wild, and Washington Trails Association work towards protecting Washington’s wild lands and waters which provide recreational access, wildlife habitat, healthy watersheds and a unique quality of life for current and future generations. Each of these organizations has a long history in advocating for the designation and management of Wilderness areas and Wild and Scenic Rivers in Washington State. Together, these organizations can support efforts by the National Park Service to develop appropriate wilderness climbing polices for North Cascades National Park, such as a revised Wilderness management plan (with full public participation), a North Cascades climbing management plan, or a case study on Forbidden Peak. This case study could include an assessment of the application of the guidelines provided by Director’s Order #41 and a stand-alone permit under the North Cascades compendium while a larger planning process is pursued. Collectively, we recognize that this process must find an appropriate balance for managing North Cascades’ unique wild lands. Both park managers and the climbing and broader conservation community would benefit from finding common ground that meets the needs of recreational users and the obligations of wilderness managers. In a time when resources are limited for the National Park Service, we can provide critical support and expertise to address these important management concerns. Time is of the essence and we therefore respectfully request a meeting with you, the appropriate North Cascades staff, and representatives of these organizations on one of the following dates:  December 2, 2013  December 6, 2013  December 10, 2013 Please let us know what dates and times work at your earliest convenience. Sincerely, Brady Robinson, Executive Director Access Fund Phil Powers, Executive Director American Alpine Club Betsy Winter, Executive Director American Mountain Guides Association Martinique Grigg, Executive Director The Mountaineers Matt Perkins, Officer Washington Climbers Coalition Karen Daubert, Executive Director Washington Trails Association Jim Hook, Executive Director Washington Wild Kitty Craig, North Cascades Program Manager The Wilderness Society Cc: The Honorable Patty Murray, United States Senate The Honorable Maria Cantwell, United States Senate The Honorable Suzan DelBene, United States House of Representatives Chip Jenkins, Pacific West Region Deputy Regional Director, National Park Service Kinsey Shilling, Chief Ranger, North Cascades National Park

I think you need Brandon's new book! http://www.skagitcrag.com/?page_id=33

I think Twight is gonna be pissed with your superior logic. I, on the other hand, think you've mathematically proven the magic of the internet.

That looks like a great pack, but Millet appears to have ceased production. This highlights a frustration I have with companies and their packs, leave well enough alone! It seems like the ideal design is pretty simple. Change the materials, sure, but keep making something that works!

After how many posts are snarky comments allowed? Am I there yet?

Yowza. That narrows it down a bit. Well done!