JasonG

I can see at least one key section in your photo that would make the TFT spicier than normal- the descent off Torment to the rap.

You can't always just step across. I've had to rap into the moat, then climb out. Most folks don't want to deal with 5th class rock on Whitehorse, thus the convention that it is out of shape later in the season. When exactly that is, varies year to year.

Interesting on the Heli flight of ashes up Whitehorse. I wouldn't advertize that on the web unless you have the proper permits. It is in a wilderness area and the courts don't look highly on unauthorized flights (Green Mtn LO, eh?). I haven't done the route to high pass without snow, so I'm not sure how bad the schwack is later in the season. My guess is that the summit should still be accessible, but there may be some moat shenanigans that will get worse as the season progresses. I have climbed it thru June most years without problems, but this seems like a below average year.

D'oh! Didn't see the date on your post tom and thought it was from this year. I do remember your tr from a couple years ago so, although I'm almost over the hill, I'm not there yet.

Wow! Did you ski the north side Tom? TR??

It was ~13 hrs CTC for us. Two single raps to the east links the upper snowfield of Argonaut to easy slopes that lead to Colchuck Peak/col.

If you're going for the NE gully, the better way is to C2C it, approaching from Mountaineer Creek, and descending via Colchuck Col (optional summit of Colchuck as well). I've done that this time of year (TR in the db) and can highly recommend the outing as a fun/interesting trip.

It's going to be really snowy. I'm sure it could be done, but most would find it in sub-optimal shape. July is typically the ticket.

Impressive climbs, fantastic images, and great writing. You make it all sound so reasonable.

Those are a solid steel choice. My preferred summertime crampon in the North Cascades is Al, the Stubai ultralight universal (though I don't think they make it anymore?). Several companies make good full strap aluminum crampons.

Cool. That final bit to the summit was really memorable for me as I remember spotting my friend in his tele boots while he skittered around on the snowy slab. That is a good consolation prize.

Is that Graybeard? From further east than the Easy Pass TH? Doesn't look big enough, but tough to tell scale....

It must be fun when you guys run into each other at Beacon. Brotherhood of the rope, indeed.

Mark- NOT Green Gables...re-read Tyson's post.

Wow, I wouldn't have thought the approach to Glacier advisable with the warmth, but it looked real nice up high. Well done. Great images (Josh is hauling some nice glass these days?) and story, as per usual, too!

Cool, thanks for that link. I hadn't seen it before, but it looks quite useful.

My personal favorite for giving me a sense of the weather: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/mm5rt/gfsinit.html Takes a little getting used to to figure out which products to look at, but I've found it much more useful than point forecasts. You can see the general patterns and extrapolate accordingly. Start with the various 4km Cloud and Precip loops. Good stuff from Dr. Mass's Lab!

I need to make the ski-in one of these years, sounds fun!

Success!! By that I mean not dying, which was a pretty big accomplishment in those conditions. That face has only been climbed a few times, so battling that high in sub optimal conditions is notable. Given the warmth of late, you are indeed fortunate that it all worked out. As you figured out, that thing is pretty serious, even in good conditions. Good writing too, thanks.

AND ALLCAPS IS LETTING YOU GET AWAY WITH THIS?

Sheesh.

Glad you made it out safe, that was way too close for comfort.

They were able to bring John out today: http://www.bellinghamherald.com/2014/05/15/3644219/rangers-recover-body-of-skier.html?sp=/99/101/102/ Many thanks to the NPS, Hi-Line, BMR, and WSAR Rescuers for their work on this mission.

Agreed. I had only interacted virtually with John over the years, but enjoyed his contributions to the site and his images. My sincere condolences to his friends and family. These accidents are the hardest for me, because of how close to home it hits. It sounded like John was similar to me in a lot of ways (like my friends TJ, Dallas, and Henning who also died in the mountains), and each of these accidents cause me to reevaluate my approach to climbing/skiing. I haven't found the answer though.

That's a pretty bold descent with the warmth we've had the past few days. Glad you had a safe trip, and thanks for the report!