JasonG

Bob, you crack me up.

Nice work! JBerg is an accomplishment for sure, by any route. I agree that the register is a fun read. Did you like all of Dallas's entries?

You drop it, you buy it- otherwise split it. But agree that if a cam looks good, it probably is.

Holy crap. That is an incredible amount of climbing in 4 days!

Glad you guys like the report! Hey Phil!!! We dropped low, since the snow was very firm and Zak and Brad weren't that excited about steep side hilling. It probably added a bit of time, but it was pretty fast both up and down with the snow. I agree that all options would be quite tedious without snow. And I have to give you many thanks for turning us on to the col camp years ago- one of my favorite camps, period!

Trip: Fernow and Seven Fingered Jack - Standard Scrambles Date: 6/21/2014 Trip Report: Conditions were pretty ideal on both Fernow and 7FJ around the solstice - enough snow to make travel efficient, a consolidated snowpack, and no bugs. My brother and I had been weathered off this trip five years ago and finally got around to getting back to it, along with his friend Brad. We camped at the scenic col to the west of 7FJ, which has space for a couple small tents and views that are hard to beat. Fernow turned out to be a surprisingly worthy adversary for a "class 2" scramble and while the Beckey description is more or less accurate, you should expect to use your hands and be ready for firm, steep snow. I went up 7FJ by myself (easy scrambling, minimal snow) in the evening after we climbed Fernow and enjoyed the sunset and summit all to myself. It was the last 9K peak for me in Cascades so that was a pretty fun way to end the trip. The Chelan Mountains are always beautiful, one of my favorite areas in the range. Crossing one of the creeks en route to the Leroy Basin trail: Camp! Unnamed gendarme on the ridge between 7FJ and Fernow: Glacier Peak at sunrise from camp: Hard snow in the morning, climbers take warning: NF of Maude: Scrambling near the top of Fernow: Skiers on the traverse to the NF of Maude: Skiers on the NF of Maude: Copper and beyond from the summit of Fernow: Exposed Class 3 on the way back to camp: Fernow from 7FJ: Sunset Panorama from 7FJ: Agnes, the dark horse of the Cascades. You can't resist her allure! Zak looking to Buck and beyond: Camp was sublime: Gear Notes: Crampons, ice axe, helmet. Approach Notes: Leroy Basin trail. Expect some major avi carnage in the forest on the Spider Meadow trail. The creek crossing may be high, but we didn't get our feet wet.

Ah, so they are a different kind of asshole than you are Bob?

That's quite the trip in ski boots! I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure that the schrund/crevasse below the rap off Torment wasn't there in July of 2009. I seem to remember just walking over to the rock after the rap. That avi scar on the snow traverse is pretty spooky looking as well.

The storm years! Impressive string you've been on; it is cool to see what motivation and persistence will get you up.

Most folks don't want to spend much more than $100 for Clampons.

The traverse over to Luahna isn't bad from Clark. I've gone both ways (glacier and south side of ridge) on two separate trips, and the south side route is faster if you are tagging both peaks. You descend a gulley that faces Luahna, a bit south of Clark's summit . I think it is only an hour or two between the peaks. You do need to be careful on the final scramble bit of Luahna- it killed a good friend of mine a few years back. That area is really cool, glad you had a fun trip!

Well, I am pretty special.

yeah....I'm not going to sign up for FB anytime soon.

One of the best TRs ever on this site, thanks Joe! And thanks to SS and Loren for the added details/stories- good stuff.

Oh, and I climbed it with my wife and a friend awhile back and three people worked out fine, or at least I don't remember it being a pain.

Choss Dawg Success!! So glad that you guys had a good climb! Juan can fill me in on the dirty details when he comes along on our trip in July. Is the Paisano/Burgundy link up next? That approach is pretty steep, but at least your boots were wet.

There are other areas of life?

Fantastic Lowell, thanks for keeping the spirit of Dwight alive. Dwight had originally told my father that he wanted him to have the movies when he passed on. However, it was a good thing that Gino (estate executor) donated them to the Mountaineers. When I showed my dad your page on the Traverse, he remarked "If I had gotten the movies, they would just be sitting in a drawer somewhere collecting dust". Well done!

Very cool link-up, thanks for the beta!

Interesting that you guys went back and forth on the ridge. Given that it took us at least three hours to get from the north peak back to camp, that might not be a bad way to go if the snow conditions stay firm. Of course, as Gary's group demonstrated in 1975, it can take awhile to do it that way as well!

Hmmmm, I remember it being a little harder than the rest out of the notch but more mid fifth or so. My memory isn't good enough to provide specifics other than go where it looks easiest. I know, not helpful.

We saw your name in the register! With more snow it would have been even more classic, and I can imagine how sporty it felt without a rope. I was a bit surprised how good the the traverse was, given the lack of recent TRs out there. Hopefully more folks get out each spring and experience it for themselves.

I agree with Kyle. I've gone up the S. ridge twice and down the SE face once and the South Ridge is certainly the way to go. The thing is on the south ridge is to not go too high too fast and traverse climber's left into a shallow depression after coming up out of the notch from the Taboo. If you do this, I've found the climbing pretty mellow.

You're probably going to get the full spectrum of responses here. They are a bit old-fashioned, but I took several courses with them (late 1990's, early 2000's) when I was starting out and thought them a great value. I met some motivated and skilled climbers whom I learned a lot from by doing climbs outside the club. I even met my wife in a Mountaineers course! Maybe that is why I have fond memories, now that I think about it.....

Damn. I've got no excuses. Impressive!