JasonG

No, Nate, skis ARE far superior for BC travel. I used to have the deep powder fun high ground, but stinking early rise tips and fat skis are making that argument moot. I liked it better when skiers didn't ski like snowboarders. Learn to ski. I need to take that advice too, maybe when my sons learn.

Once you get to a point where you can crank a huge GS turn on a field of untouched snow in the glorious sunshine, you won't care about winter climbing. Skiing (or in my case, splitboarding) is certainly the most pure fun I have in the mountains. I only go winter climbing when the ski conditions suck.

I guess their definition of assault doesn't match mine. "Passive resistance without a physical assault on a ranger, flight without physical assault on a ranger, evidence of a failure to comply or uncooperativeness without evidence of a physical assault,...." etc. Talk about cooking the numbers. Sheesh.

the end

Imagine how fast he could go if he was in shape.

To be clear, I have never run into a ranger where I was in the wrong (e.g. camping without a permit), but I sure have been treated with condescension and suspicion on more than one occasion. And from talking with many other local climbers, I am not alone- This is what myself and others are getting at. It goes way beyond overnight permit enforcement. But I think you've hit on the exact issue- I expect rangers to be a lot more easy going (and less hard-assed cop) than you do. This isn't Compton. Heavy handed anchor removal only adds to the Gestapo image.

I'm glad you've had good experiences in NCNP. While the majority of my ranger interactions haven't been negative, the ones that have certainly stick with me. I'm sure it is an easy rut to fall in when dealing with yahoos all day long, but treating people like idiots or criminals will never win you friends.

Great photo! Such a spectacular spot, it's on my list.

Which road would that be? Thinking of Boulder or Shannon ridge roads? Some friends skied up on Baker (easton) last Friday and reported no road issues.

So what is the latest on the AALP? I haven't heard much lately....and assumed they faded away to try again in another 10 years.

Wait, what do Crocs mean again?

We hiked up Stetattle Creek into the park this weekend just fine, but we didn't have to start from NPS ground (parked in Diablo). The cordoned off parking areas along the highway were a bit over the top, apparently the posturing isn't limited to DC. Is the NPS worried that we might not notice that they aren't working?

As long as the government is shut down, it will be closed, guaranteed.

Thanks for the reminder, my wife filled this out today. Good luck with the study, and please post the results when you finish. Thanks!

Well, I won't argue that the tweakers stay close to a road or dirtbike compatible trail, but for somewhere like Rainier, that is a lot of real estate to lay waste to. As much as I think it is stupid that the NPS has to tell its employees to go home, if they didn't lock the gate on the way out it would pretty much be idiotic.

Super small scale?? I'm going with Pete on this one. Say what you want about the NPS ranger corps., but parks like Rainier are WAY cleaner/less messed with than nearby FS land. As someone who spends a lot of time on FS land outside of Granite Falls/Concrete/Darrington, Pete is not off the mark. If you can get near it in a truck or dirtbike, the methheads/rednecks aren't to be underestimated.

Watching Scott wear them choss dogging over the past few years, I would expect them to wear about the same. They're crazy light though, as you know.

I know, if only Indian Summer was in full effect. Boston Basin rave!

Well, Ueli wouldn't use crap, now would he? Maybe Sepultura could weigh in- I think he has had these for a couple seasons and is happy with them. They're pretty good looking if you can find a deal like you did. Pretty spendy for full list. I wouldn't expect them to be any more durable than the Trangos.

You're welcome. I added some captions to the photos, although it sounds like most of you know what you are looking at. You're right Scott, time to get the skis waxed!

While the Link is germane to the discussion, I think the bigger issue is you going back and looking at the OP's question.

Trip: Dumbell & Greenwood - Standards Date: 9/26/2013 Trip Report: Scott spends his summers toiling away on the fishing grounds of the Bering Sea, so when he returns each September he is really motivated to get out. Motivation is infectious, so when the UW model trended much worse just the day before we were set to leave, I ignored it and went with the sunny icon on the NWS site. The first indication that this was a mistake was pretty early, 0730 to be exact, when we drove through rain on the way up and over Stevens. Oh well, at least we brought whiskey. The normally jammed parking lot at the Phelps Creek TH was empty save for another two vehicles, and after the first half mile of trail we didn't see anyone else for the rest of the trip. Marveling at what tough hombres the old miners were, and chatting about our respective summers meant Scott and I were through Spider Meadow (fabulous as always) and in upper Phelps Basin before we knew it. The clouds continued to swirl and thicken, but Scott was still motivated, so up we continued into the basin below Dumbell. There is somewhat of a faint climbers trail to the left of the creek that descends from the upper basin. Our plan was to drop gear at the base of Dumbell, go tag Greenwood, and come back and bivy on the summit of Dumbell. The first part of the plan went mostly without a hitch, and both Scott and I were suitably impressed with the exposure and position of the ledge connecting the two objectives of the trip. Snow and ice gave an added measure of alpine flavor to this section, and made us briefly wish we had gaiters (sorry Gordo). The rest of the ascent of Greenwood was mostly a walk in the clouds, though they did part briefly on the summit. Fine tent sites are found on the ridge halfway up from the col, but we weren't in a position to take advantage of them. Turns out this was a good thing. Retracing our steps back to our packs was pretty quick, and soon we were eyeing the route up Dumbell. Snow and ice made the normally solid class three a bit more challenging than expected with full packs, and Scott and I regrouped a couple hundred feet below the top to discuss. The forecasted (NWS) mostly sunny had never materialized that day (more like mostly cloudy), and things were supposed to be much worse the next with precip. The terrain between us and the summit was snowy and icy, and we were unsure that the summit was roomy enough for our tent (didn't look to be big enough from below). However, it was only 3 pm, and there was ample firewood in the basin below.....we dropped our packs and quickly scrambled the last bit to the top. One look at the snow filled single bivy site on top and we knew we had made the right call. Scott and I like each other well enough, but there is no reason to push it. After about a half hour, Scott and I couldn't delay the descent any longer and off we went to collect our packs and reverse the 2500' down to the upper basin camp. This went better than expected through the snow covered talus and slippery heather and a couple hours later we were gathering firewood and setting up the tent next to a huge boulder at the end of the trail. The extra white gas we had packed for summit snow meltage made fire ignition in the face of a rain squall trivial. Time for the Canadian Hunter! The next day dawned grey, windy, and snowy. Dumbell was in the clouds. At the trail's end, Scott start up towards Dumbell (out of view to the right): Crossing the very exposed ledge between Dumbell and Greenwood: Unmapped tarn below Greenwood/Dumbell saddle: Fernow and Seven Fingered Jack: Scott heading back to Dumbell (over his head): Reversing the key ledge: Dumbell: Scott approaching the summit of Dumbell: The south side of Bonanza: Greenwood from the summit of Dumbell: Chiwawa: Copper, Fernow, 7FJ (L-R): Scott is thinking we made the right call: Rain squall over Spider Meadow: Camp in Phelps Basin: A rainy Spider Meadow on the hike out: Gear Notes: Helmet, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Follow the hundred highest crew

Fantastic images, great climbs, and even better friends. Always an inspiration Mark, thanks!

That be the NE Couloir