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Posts
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Days Won
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Everything posted by JasonG
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Road to Darrington Washed out in Mud Slide, 3 Dead
JasonG replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climber's Board
The LiDAR for the Hazel reach is sobering. In the last several thousand years there have been several slides larger than the one that we just witnessed. Dru nailed the geology, something that plagues the NF in several reaches. Think of it as a combination of of moraine and lake sediments from when the Puget Lobe blocked the NF valley mouth. The thing that is interesting to me is that, contrary to what the ST reported, the river was not actively cutting at the toe of the slide. We built a several thousand foot log revetment to keep the river away from the toe of the slide after the 2006 event. It was performing as designed and the material behind the crib wall (extending up to the old head scarp) was very low angle and not in danger of failing. This slide originated much higher (a couple hundred feet above the old head scarp) and overran the old debris, going very much farther than I had expected. Amazing. -
Road to Darrington Washed out in Mud Slide, 3 Dead
JasonG replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climber's Board
Dru is right on this one, they just updated it. However,I expect it to be revised downwards significantly once a few more days go by. Still, many folks we've worked with over the years on Steelhead Drive are no longer with us....the scale of this most recent slide is hard to comprehend. So much bigger than 2006. I've worked as a fish bio on the Stilly for the past 14 years and this is as bad of an event as I'm likely to see in my career. -
first ascent [TR] Mongo Ridge-W.Fury F.A.- VI-5.10- 8/28/2006
JasonG replied to wayne's topic in North Cascades
Fury is the center of the bushwhacking universe. I think Wayne settled on the only semi reasonable way to access Mongo. -
first ascent [TR] Mongo Ridge-W.Fury F.A.- VI-5.10- 8/28/2006
JasonG replied to wayne's topic in North Cascades
The Pole of Remoteness is no joke. This summer I was marveling at how far back in there it is. Here I thought we were "committed" on the NF of Terror, then I looked over my shoulder at Mongo Ridge and laughed. Wayne set the bar! -
In all seriousness though, I come here for the TRs, pretty pictures, beta, access info, and color commentary- not necessarily in that order. There isn't a better spot on the web for our local hills, at least that I've found.
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I guess I'm scratching my head a bit on this one, but then again I've never been accused of being sensitive. Having sat through a four hour staff meeting this morning, I really hope that these proposed changes don't turn this site into a PC wasteland like I just endured. Even if the barbs here sometimes cross the line (though that is pretty much kept in Spray these days), they keep me on my toes, and that is good. If folks need to be taken down a notch, I would hope that cc.com can continue to deliver, and that we don't take posts or posters too seriously. We could all use a bit more humility, and we certainly can and should learn to take some abuse. Think of it as alpine training without leaving your office.
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I'd never considered the bee angle RE: Bachar and other solo deaths. Interesting.
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Chirp- That is a fine sea run Cutt! I like your setup too.
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Looking back, it's easy to see how our attitudes have changed over time, but a recent study in Science shows how much harder it is for young people to predict how significantly their lives/attitudes/hobbies will change. I am certainly not immune either, even though I am peeking over the hill. Kids/marriage changed things in ways I did not expect.
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Really? What's the logic of which you speak? Gravity?
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I'm such an idiot. OK, next Wenesday, Chuck's on 85th. I will try and swing it.
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Right on cue
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D'oh, I need to pay better attention. THIS one was north of town. For some reason I thought you were talking WS or Georgetown....oh well, hope it was grand!
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If this is going to be a regular thing, I think I will wait until it is north of town. One of these times though!
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Didn't Largo say something like "Anyone can fall at any time"? Seems prudent to rope up for 5th class rock if you can get gear but hey, I've got dependents. It's interesting to see that pretty much all climbers have this sort of soul searching if they stick with it long enough. As Mark said, you will see friends maimed and killed if you climb long enough. If those sorts of experiences don't change your approach/outlook, something's wrong.
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Sounded like a fun time, I might just have to make the drive south for the next one.
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East Coasters Headed out to Cascades to Climb
JasonG replied to DcDPT2016's topic in Climbing Partners
David- If you need a guide, you should get in touch with Kurt Hicks Highly recommended! -
Bob's the man! I've enjoyed his slide shows over the years and these books are impressive. Thanks for the reminder.
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For your height,a Firstlight is a good option. For mine, not so much. I really wish they made a Firstlight with a 6 more inches in both directions. I can't think it would add that much more weight, and what a difference in comfort. I spent a week in a HiLight in the Pickets and it was tough.
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first winter ascent [TR] Mt Huntington - French (NW) Ridge (FWA) 3/1/2014
JasonG replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
Oh, I have no business trying for Huntington, but I do love pretty pictures. That is one beautiful mountain. -
first winter ascent [TR] Mt Huntington - French (NW) Ridge (FWA) 3/1/2014
JasonG replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
Indeed. Another impressive smash and grab ascent! Your success rate using this tactic is hard to ignore. Are you going to add a few more photos of the rest of the climb/descent? -
It's so light that I can't bring myself to sit or stand on it, even though I've seen photos of people doing just that. It isn't brittle like EPS foam, so I don't doubt that you can sit on it and it will be just fine. I'm pretty amazed at the material, and I'm surprised that nobody has made a helmet out of it before. From what I understand, EPP foam has been around for a long time. It does get dented and scratched from abuse, so if you sat or stood on it in a gravel parking lot or something, I could imagine that there would be indents that wouldn't pop back out.
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I've never taken a big hit with any of my helmets, thankfully. The UIAA helmet standard is higher than the CE, requiring 20% less force be transmitted to the head during a top/side/front/back impact with a test weight (5 kg) dropped from 2 meters(8kN vs. 10 kN for CE EN 12492:2000). Some of the other lightweight helmets out there made from EPS foam (BD Vapor) do not meet the UIAA standard. The Sirocco does, being made from EPP foam. Still though, a helmet can only do so much. A 5 kg rock falling 2 meters isn't exactly moving that fast. At some point the force is enough to break your neck or turn your brain to mush so matter what you are wearing on your head.
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No argument that I look like a pumpkin head (Scott knows I'm no mountain god!), but once you put one on, you don't really care. I sometimes forget that I'm wearing a helmet- that never happened with the old plastic ones. The EPP foam is surprisingly durable too. I've had mine for over a year and put it through some pretty typical Cascadian alpine abuse. It isn't like the foam that is under the hard plastic shells of its competitors. The one drawback I've found is that it isn't easy to tighten the fit on the sides, if your head isn't shaped like the helmet. You can get it tight so it won't wobble around, but there is still some slop, side to side, if you get hit (at least on my head). Still, I think it would protect you plenty in the event of a fall. Plus, I've noticed I no longer need a headlamp.