JasonG

As someone who bike commutes regularly during the warmer months (I'm a weenie), I found that NYT piece pretty unsettling. I've lost more friends to climbing than biking, but I'm beginning to wonder which is safer. I very nearly was killed/maimed last summer by some guy in a creeper van who pulled out in front/ on top of me. To think that he could just say "sorry" and walk away is pretty infuriating when I was 100% in the right, it was daylight, and I was wearing a neon jersey. Although I can certainly understand people's frustration with lawless bikers (I've felt that way at times while driving), mostly I get the sense from the "outrage" that most folks have absolutely no idea what its like to be a bike commuter. Bikes aren't killing and maiming people on a regular basis, so what's the big deal with your "out of control biker problem"? Cite the yahoos leave the rest of us alone. Most of us are just trying to survive and get some exercise. The anger really baffles me.

Ah.... November.

I've yet to destroy a camera in the hills, and I always take a camera. In the old film days this wasn't too hard to accomplish, but I have to admit that I have been surprised how durable cheap digital cameras are. I've had good luck with Canons. I think I switched from slides to a dslr about 2008. On long rock climbs I have a small digital P&S on my shoulder strap, on easier terrain I have a dslr in a chest case, skiing too. That said, when it is raining or snowing heavily I tend to put the dslr away. Mostly you are whited out anyways and the photo opportunities are limited. As you can imagine, water and shock are the two things to avoid. My chest pack is pretty much water and shockproof (within reason). I always throw my neck strap on too when I have it out of my pack, it has saved me from dropping the camera a long ways a couple of times.

What was the time on yer enchantments solo CJB?

Thanks guys. I guess I could have done some research, but this was more educational in the end. Like the tidbit about yurts!

FW posted this up on another thread and I found it interesting: The Wilderness Act 1964: Section 4c - Prohibition of Certain Uses: Except as specifically provided for in this Act, and subject to existing private rights, there shall be no commercial enterprise and no permanent road within any wilderness area designated by this Act and, except as necessary to meet minimum requirements for the administration of the area for the purpose of this Act. . . I'm guessing that there is some sort of court decision defining "commercial enterprise"? Obviously guiding is prevalent in Wilderness areas (and isn't hidden from the NPS or USFS), so I was curious how that fit in with the above portion of the Act.

I can verify that Alex and Jens were going fast on Slesse! They blew by us on the upper pitches, simuling everything, while we were happily pitching it out. It was cool to watch.

Trip: Darrington- Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy to Pitch 11 Date: 10/28/2013 Trip Report: Excessive Approach Beta Warning You'd think with the excellent information out there about Slab Daddy that the approach would be somewhat idiot proof. Although, after leading Caleb on the Squire Creek scenic tour earlier this week I'm afraid to say that no, no it isn't. At least not for this idiot. Caleb and I had traded emails for more than a year, looking to get out together. He climbs a great deal harder than myself, but luckily he recently retired from crushing, and was ready to stoop to my level. With Indian summer in full effect I convinced him to make the drive south, he had never climbed at Darrington! I did a bit of research (not enough) and figured the first half of Slab Daddy would be a fine outing for us to get to know each other, see some big trees, and climb a few pitches. In the end, this turned out to be true, but we took the long way. What is usually a 1.25 hour approach, we turned into a 4.5 hour tour, as we walked too far up the road, crossed the creek in the wrong spot, and wandered way up on a good climber's path to the Illusion wall (?). At least we had time to get to know each others' back stories. Once we realized our error, it wasn't too hard to retrace our steps to the road and down valley to the correct turn off. Soon we were matching the trail to the description and huffing it up the beautiful old growth to the base of the route. Steppy, fun climbing with good anchors leads upwards to the aptly named Balcony Bivy and our high point for the day. While the full 22 pitches of Slab Daddy will appeal to some, I think many would enjoy the first 11 pitches and I would recommend this climb to folk looking beyond the typical 3 O'clock, Exfo, Green Giant routes. Thanks David and Co. for putting it up! Here are some photos so you won't make the same mistake we did. You want to see this rock at the stream crossing: Looking upstream from the correct crossing: Once you cross the stream you will be here looking up the swath to Slab Daddy. It ascends the prominent water stream in the center right of the photo. The climber's path heads out left through the ferns into the big timber: Gear Notes: Mainly draws (14) to top of Pitch 11. Small rack if want some gear for the scrambling and low fifth class part that is a pitch or two long. Two ropes for descending. Helmet. You may want sandals depending on stream flows. We were able to rock hop Approach Notes: Don't follow us. Look for the obvious trail a few hundred feet past debris flow/creek about a half mile past major landslide (no culvert, nor cedar foot bridge). David's description from there is spot on.

Such a fantastic TR, thanks! You can really see the camaraderie in the photos, looks like you guys had a fun trip. In general, good weather too? I seem to remember that SE AK had quite the summer?

That is amazingly fast. I would be happy to get to the top in six hours, let alone round trip. Those clouds are beautiful, post some more pics!

Thanks John, fascinating! There was also an event in 2010. I was up on Anderson Butte with the family and took this photo in early September of that year: When that thing goes, the scale is pretty incredible.

It's been my experience that you do not want to mess with those who have less to lose than you. It's easy to talk tough, but coming face to face with a tweaker in full tweak is one of the scariest things I've ever seen. I don't envy the police.

Well done! I have to admit that I was somewhat surprised that the route was back in such good shape. Absolutely beautiful. Ah, youth!

Spray can be surprisingly educational. Philatelist indeed.

Nevermind, looks like the Obergabelhorn.

Wow, I really need to get over there some day. Thanks for the report! What is the peak in the last photo of your TR?

As I often learn at work and at home, my interpretation of rule #2 if often at odds with others' view of said rule.

http://www.spiegel.de/international/world/best-of-the-international-mountain-summit-photo-contest-a-929366.html The shot of Makalu, in particular, is incredible. I need some L glass.

His ultra driven climbing career yes, but something tells me Caleb is a lifer. Stunning shots as usual, and way to time the fall colors!

This rack was a bit large for our old CRV and was used only once. It is impressively sturdy, and in great shape. I am including an appropriately sized cargo net that has also only been used once. I can drive it to the Seattle area for a serious buyer. Fits 2" hitches. $120.

Trip: Darrington - 3 O'clock Rock - Silent Running Date: 10/15/2013 Trip Report: Don't put the skis on just yet! Despite the gloom that has been hanging around for much of the day in the lowlands, Indian summer is in full effect up in the hills. The Darrington crags are in fine, dry shape right now and temps are perfect for D-town slab dancing. This past Columbus Day, Kit, Steve, and myself finally got around to ticking off the classic Silent running and weren't disappointed. We had the entire area to ourselves and the weather couldn't have been better. I'd highly recommend the 7th bonus pitch also, and felt that it wasn't much harder than the other "9+" pitches that preceded it. Well protected too. Either Dave's or Matt's topos (we had both) are great, so there is no need to worry about gear or route finding. A fun route! We finished the day with a bit of climbing in the afternoon sun at the Great Arch. Given the forecast, D-town looks to be great for another week! Do we go for the bonus pitch? Yes!! Exfoliation Dome looks to be in fine shape as well right now: Gear Notes: Standard D-town rack to 2" plus 10 draws Approach Notes: Clear Creek Rd to Squire Creek Pass trail. Silent running starts right where the trail hits the slab.

Good points E. What I was getting at is that I get tired of people blaming teachers for poor student performance. I'm not a teacher, but seeing my kids' classrooms, I have a good idea of the hand some teachers are dealt. The teachers try their best, but some kids aren't going to succeed given the circumstances. That isn't to say we shouldn't hold teachers to a high standard, but the harsh reality is that failing students don't necessarily mean failing teachers/schools. However, I don't disagree that maybe the approach (as discussed above) for some kids/schools could be changed to be more effective. I just wonder if the push to mainstream everyone in the same classroom/curricula is really the best way forward.

I have no idea, but I don't get paid to think of these things, and am not that smart anyways. Just curious if anyone has put forward any solutions. I suspect that schools being surrogate parents is about as good as we can hope for, considering the state of the nation. Rob- thanks for the link, pretty fascinating. Maybe our lackluster schools here in Mount Vernon aren't such a bad deal after all....

Is that what I said? I'm mostly wondering what we are doing outside of the schools to deal with increasing parents ability to raise children better. Touchy subject, I know. Or, maybe you'd rather deal with the damage after it's done?

So we are expecting schools to raise our children now, in addition to teach them? Do we just ignore failed parenting because there is no solution?