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mthorman last won the day on March 29

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About mthorman

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  • Birthday 04/30/1987


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    Spokane, WA
  1. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Interesting.....I bet that if it had made the list it would be climbed a LOT more!
  2. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    I rigged up an old phone cord for my nut tool tether. It allows a long reach but retracts so it doesn't get in the way. I can't claim it as original as I got it from John Godino's website. He has quite a list of cool DIY mods. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/diy-gear-making-and-modification
  3. [TR] Cabinet Mountains - Multiple 03/21/2020

    Porter, you should definitely plan a trip up there next winter! Thanks Jason, yes all the photos posted are mine.
  4. Trip: Cabinet Mountains - Multiple Trip Date: 03/21/2020 Trip Report: I just wanted to share some photos and descriptions from the last couple ice seasons in the Cabinet Mountains. Anyone who got the 2019 AAJ or Alpinist 64 might have already seen pictures of the area. There have been a handful of Spokane area climbers putting up routes over the last couple seasons. All the climbing has been done out of Granite Lake which is near Libby, MT in the Cabinet Mountains. The climbing is quite varied, from single pitch WI3 to 1000ft hard ice and mixed routes. The area has been divided up into 3 big areas….A Peak, The Thunderdome, and Three Tiers. A picture is worth a thousand words so I will just resort to numerous pictures instead of more text……let the stoke begin for next season!! Looking across Granite Lake with A Peak towering 4000 feet above. The Thunderdome is the large sub dome in the center of the picture. The Thunderdome!! Some of the best ice routes anywhere around. Scott Coldiron and Matt Cornell on the first ascent of Mad Max, WI5+ (8 pitches). Nate Kenney climbing a steep skinny pillar called War Boys, WI5+. Scott Coldiron climbing a crazy pitch called Underworld, WI3. This route is 20m long and entirely inside an ice cave 500 feet up the Thunderdome! Another view of the spectacular A Peak and the upper wall of the Thunderdome. The big ice in the center of the wall is Road Warrior, WI5, M5 (8 pitches). Looking up the huge gash on A Peak. Scott Coldiron and Jess Roskelley put up the route Canmore Wedding Party AI5, M7, 750m, which ascends this central gash. The climb got nominated for a Piolet d'Or in 2019. Note: the large sheet of ice on the bottom rock band is still unclimbed as of 2020. Looking up the wide start to the "Blaster Routes". Blaster, WI4 is five pitches of ice while Master Blaster WI4, M5, (10 pitches) continues to the top of the Thunderdome. Looking up from the lake at the "Three Tiers". These cliffs have about 20-25 ice and mixed routes that have been done. A closer view of the the ice (during a fat season) on the center of the 2nd Tier with the 3rd Tier above. Scott Coldiron on the first ascent of Toast, WI5 on the 2nd Tier. Zach Turner leading The Dag, WI3 on the 2nd Tier......a super fun mellow corner. A shot of some of the 3rd Tier routes. Gyro Captain, WI4, goes up the ice on the right while Pig Killer, WI3, takes a line up some of the ice on the left. Multiple possibilities exist for mixed routes connecting the lower ice flows in the center up through the rock to the hanging ice above. Zach Tuner rappelling off Max's Bloodline, WI4, with the impressive routes on Thunderdome in the background. Jonathan Klaucke climbing funky ice on Cheedo, WI3-4, on the 2nd Tier. Looking across at the right hand end of the Three Tiers from the Thunderdome. The wide flow in the center is the start of Tomorrow Land, WI3+, 3 pitches, while the ice up on the right is Devil's Brownies, WI4, 2 pitches, and then farther right is Scales of Justice, WI4/5. Zach Tuner on the skinny pillar start to Splendid Angharad, WI5. The flow farther left is called Capable, WI4. Looking up the 2nd pitch of Tomorrow Land, WI3+ on the first ascent. This fat climb called Nightrider, WI4, 3 pitches, is on the far left of the Thunderdome. It is a bit longer of a hike from the lake but the route is a stellar moderate! Scott Coldiron climbing the crux 2nd pitch of Nightrider, WI4. Brian White starting up the classic Toast, WI5 on the 2nd Tier. The ice beyond him is the route Cheedo, WI3-4. Zack Turner on the sharp end during the first ascent of Grease Rat, WI4....a really fun route on the 3rd Tier. Matt Cornell working through the crux of Sarcophagus of Lies, M6. The route continues up and left until you can stem between the rock and the ice dagger above. This is a stellar line on the 3rd Tier with "quality climbing as good as Come and Get It" according to Matt. Brian White putting up a short route called Mystery Gas, WI3 on the 3rd Tier. Syd Atencio and Nate Kenney climbing up Devil's Brownies, WI4, on the Three Tiers. Granite Lake and the surrounding basin in the background. I think one of my favorite things about the climbing here is the views....it just never gets old!! Every time I walk across Granite Lake I have to pause and just look up. Hopefully this will get some people stoked about climbing up there because it is a beautiful spot with fantastic climbing. Happy to answer any beta questions or run them through Scott. Gear Notes: Ice screws......rock gear for mixed routes. Approach Notes: All climbs are best accessed from the Granite Lake trailhead. In winter it is a 9 mile hike/skin into the lake with about 2000 ft of elevation gain. Count on 4-9 hours depending on conditions. From downtown Libby, take Highway 2 east one mile to Shaugnessy road. Take a right and follow this for .7 miles before turning left onto Snowshoe road. After 1/2 mile take a right turn onto Granite Lake road. In .8 miles stay left on Granite Lake road and continue for 4 miles. This is the end of the pavement and where the snowplows stop in the winter. The Granite Lake trailhead is still another 3 miles but you will have to walk/skin/snowmobile that distance in the winter. There is usually plenty of room to park several cars just be mindful not to block the road or any of the neighbor’s driveways. From here follow the snow covered road for 3 miles to the actual Granite Lake trailhead. The road is mostly level with a few gradual climbs (400 feet of elevation gain in 3 miles). From the trailhead hike/skin the trail 6 miles up to the lake.
  5. I finally took the time to sit down and read your report and watch the videos. Wow, what a fantastic climb!! It is so cool that you were able to get such great footage. And that natural ice tunnel....looks like one of the most memorable pitches ever! Thanks for sharing and congrats on the climb.
  6. Easy way for you to win 2 free Ice Screws

    Wait the way I read it the photo contest ended on March 2 at 10am. That was before you even posted this...... "Here's all of the "People's Choice" finalists in the Verti Call Photo Contest! The photo with the most amount of "likes" by Mar 2nd @ 10am EST wins the People's Choice! Prize is two Grandwall ice screws from Verti Call. Good luck!"
  7. wanted to buy Anyone selling: mountain hardwear direkt 2

    I have seen 4 or 5 for sale in the last year. You just have to keep your eyes open.....Mountain Project, Craiglist and Facebook Marketplace. Good luck...they are worth the effort to get one!
  8. idea Playing Cards For Cimbing

    Really cool idea. The joker replacement is awesome! The piton is definitely my favorite suit. I am definitely going to order up a set!
  9. Yea there is an insane amount of potential especially if you get a good cold year! If you want a copy of any of the pictures you are in, just send me an email (westbnsf@gmail.com).
  10. [TR] Colchuck Lake area - conditions 03/16/2019

    Figured I would post an update (May 4, 2019) on current conditions for those interested. The bad news.....there is little to no ice on the N. Face of Dragontail. I was really hoping that the freeze/thaw from the last couple weeks would work it's magic. The ice runnels on TC look like rock. We hiked in to climb Gerber Sink but it was mostly rock with just a couple of snowfields. Ended up doing the Northeast Couloir on Colchuck as a consolation prize. It was steep snow, even unconsolidated in places which was surprising. When the route cuts left at the top we took the smaller left hand couloir variation. It had a couple of easy ice steps and 1 short rock step.....better than the snowy slog up the right hand option. Came down the Colchuck Glacier which was super straight forward and actually quite soft in the afternoon....it was a nice 2500 ft glissade. Other notes.....the road is still gated. In fact there is still 4-6 inches of snow across the road for about 100 yards near the trailhead. Other than that it was a clear road. The trail is almost all snow starting right from the trailhead. In the morning the snow was hard and walking was easy. On the way down we were happy we had carried up snowshoes so we could avoid the postholing. We rode bikes from the truck to the trailhead which meant after our long day we didn't have to walk that road down. Trisha halfway up the Northeast couloir on Colchuck. Current view (5/4/19) of the N. Face of Dragontail.
  11. Long snowy approaches - equipment recs???

    Hmm...I have never noticed that issue but you bring up a great point. I have definitely ridden a lot more in Spantiks than Nepals. I also think your suggestion to just walk is a great one. Especially to many of the popular routes there is a great boot pack this time of year. Here are a couple comparison pics. On the Spantik you can see the highback doesn't quite come to the top of the boot so definitely not a problem. On the Nepal it does come up higher than the boot by about 1 1/2". Again I have never noticed my calfs being sore or rubbing but I also have only done short decents like Aasgard Pass, Mt. Adams lower mountain and stuff in the Cabinets with them. I wonder if you could just flip the lever on the highback to give you more room? You would sacrifice performance but then again we are talking about efficiency of snow travel. This picture shows the lever flipped which creates several inches of room. Also I believe that Burton made a Lo-Back Binding that was significantly less than a traditional highback. Not sure they still do but maybe you could find an old used one.
  12. Long snowy approaches - equipment recs???

    I have had good luck with my mountaineering boots on a splitboard. If you get a small enough binding a La Sportiva Nepal works very well (definitely put in a dozen or more trips with that setup). I even used La Sportiva Spantiks with my splitboard up on Denali. I wouldn't want to ride those in the resort but as you stated you aren't looking for beautiful backcountry riding just efficient snow travel.
  13. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs 03/31/2019

    Overall was there much ice on the face? It seems like it took awhile to warm up this year and then suddenly freezing levels are super high. I am curious whether there will be enough freeze thaw to actually get good ice conditions on the north face of Dragontail this year.
  14. [TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 04/05/2019

    Thanks for the post! It brought back lots of memories from my trip of the SGC several years back. I also thought those West Ridge mixed pitches were some of the best I have climbed......so much rime ice! Propagating cracks on the Sherpa though....scary! Nice job!
  15. wanted to buy cilogear SMALL 40B worksac

    Devon, you might try calling them. Sometimes they have certain size packs actually "in stock". Otherwise I would recommend both Hyperlite Mountain Gear and Mountain Laurel Designs. Both companies make good quality rugged packs that are super light and very simple. I don't know if either company makes a lid though so if that is a must it might be a deal breaker. And neither company has quite as many attachment points and straps to change the setup as CiloGear. You might try contacting one of these 2 listing from Mountain Project as well. It is the ski version of the 40B so slightly different. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116390470/fs-cilogear-40b-ski-pack-180-shipped Maybe they would be willing to outright sell it instead of trade? https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116203903/wtt-cilogear-worksack-40b-large-for-cilogear-worksack-3030-45-or-60-large