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mthorman

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mthorman last won the day on January 23

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About mthorman

  • Birthday 04/30/1987

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    Firefighter
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    Spokane, WA

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  1. I climbed Glacier in June 18-20, 2020. We had great corn snow a few hundred feet below the summit about 9am. Walked in hiking boots until we hit snow in the switchbacks before meeting the PCT, then skinned from there to where we camped at the base of the mountain. Put crampons on ski boots for the morning ascent and skied down. In general I prefer a lighter boot for Cascades in the summer (June-Sept)....something 3 season like the Scarpa Charmoz or La Sportiva Trango etc.
  2. 2nd vote for your phone. In my opinion Gaia has a better phone app than Cal Topo but Cal Topo's website features and layers are way better than Gaia. If you only get one I would say Cal Topo. Either way they are way better than my handheld GPS....it now just sits on the shelf collecting dust.
  3. I haven't climbed Mailbox Peak, nor have I done Glacier Peak in a day or the Bulger List but I did climb some ice in Banks today. Most routes are not in but we found good ice on the Corner Route at MP 9. Left MBI 1 was also in. The cable and H2O2 are trying but not really close. We climbed U1 and U2 at MP 14. Peewee #1, 4, and 5 all looked in. Zenith wasn't even close although it is trying. Most other lines were either non-existent although a few of the brush routes were trying.
  4. Yea everyone should be commenting. Also just a point to remember that there are actually 2 different proposals. One is for the NPS and the other is for the USFS. You can probably just copy and paste your comment but make sure to hit them both. Both proposals are both linked in the 2nd paragraph of the article above.
  5. Wow! Thanks for posting, and great effort out there. So many things broke or went wrong but you still managed to get it down and have fun in the process!
  6. I am a huge fan of CalTopo personally.
  7. If the money from these permits actually went directly to salaries for climbing rangers, I wouldn't be too upset. But like most government bureaucracy I am sure it will just get sucked into all sorts of special projects.
  8. Thanks for the report! It looks so beautiful over there. I love Caltopo. There are so many great features and it can help so much in the planning of a trip.
  9. I think it might depend on when in the spring. If I were going in early/mid April I would plan on double boots. If it were a mid or late May trip I would lean towards single boots. Sometime late April or early May and I would probably bring both. In 2016 I took Spantiks on a 2 week trip in early May and was happy to have them. In early May 2021 I took both Spantiks and Nepals and never put the Spantiks on as it was a warm trip. However a week prior to the 2021 trip it was -20F and I would definitely have worn the doubles. Personally I am a huge fan of overboots as they definitely give you more latitude in your boot selection. They also work super well to wear around camp over your down booties (it keeps the snow out and the down booties dry).
  10. Wow that is impressive! Did anyone else notice the caption on the 2nd photo? Since when is Eldorado a "Chilliwack Peak"?
  11. Yes it definitely looks pretty melted out already. This is similar timing to when we did it back in 2014 but in general I think those routes are coming into shape earlier and earlier now. Go give it a go in April and let us know how it goes!
  12. Thanks for writing this up, it was a good read. I have thought about the Price Glacier route for awhile but this report makes me want to go and do it! My partner and I were the "two climbers" you saw camped at the base of the summit pyramid who descended the Upper Curtis at the end of your Day 5. We climbed the Northwest Arayete on your Day 4 and camped near the base of the summit pyramid. Then we climbed the summit block on your Day 5 trying to follow the old Labor Day route (wouldn't recommend) and came down the standard Fisher Chimney's route. Sorry about all your navigation troubles....I can see how if you hadn't been down the Fisher Chimney's route it would be hard to know where to turn off because the main track up there goes down the Sulphide. Good job on holding it all together through the epic and figuring it out even if it took an extra day or 2!
  13. There are several steep snow traverses and the later in the year the worse the conditions typically (harder snow/ice). I did it in late July and was very happy with my light mountain boots and contact strap crampons and 1 ax. If I were going in late June or early July I would probably consider just using approach shoes. Anytime in August and I would definitely bring some kind of light boot.
  14. Wow...I initially was led to believe this was a super obvious error in judgement based on the avalanche forecast. But after reading that report, I would say that was not the case. I could easily see myself and many of my partners climbing that route or something similar on a 2,2,1 day. It is a good reminder that even a low avy day can have serious consequences. My condolences to all those affected.
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