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mthorman

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mthorman last won the day on March 29

mthorman had the most liked content!

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About mthorman

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 04/30/1987

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  • Occupation
    Firefighter
  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  1. [TR] Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier 07/03/2020

    Cool trip and thanks for posting! I have always wanted to get around onto this side of the mountain.
  2. review Break Testing Climbing Cams

    Yea, it is a shame that they tapered the crack so far down. It doesn't look like any of those cams would have been able to be "placed" through the constriction they pulled them through. So basically you are testing it as a nut placement. I guess it is interesting to see what breaks first on the cams.....lobes, sling, or wire. But I would be more interested in the actual holding power of the cam on ideal placements. Like what was the dynamometer showing when the cams were slipping before they became overcammed in the constriction?
  3. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Great idea. I always learn so much by my own and other people's mistakes. 1. I used to girth hitch the little cord of my point and shoot camera into a sling so as to prevent from accidentally dropping it. Then one day about 5 pitches up on SEWS I looked down to see that I had clipped into that little camera cord as my tether at the anchor. Someone I grabbed the main sling but instead of clipping into the end of it I clipped into the carmera cord at the end. Needless to say I don't ever tether my camera by a sling anymore..... 2. I had a friend fall and die while climbing with a new partner on a long multipitch route. They were climbing above their ability but their new partner didn't realize it. At the time, I was climbing with a lot of new people on bigger routes as well. I realized that I could have easily been my friend's "new climbing partner" in that scenario. It is so hard to tell someone's actual level of experience from a hike up to a cliff/mountain. I had previously thought that as long as I was solid at whatever grade we were doing it didn't matter. But after a lot of reflection I decided that wasn't true. If I was climbing with someone of less ability they could want to "hold up their end of the partnership" by leading, routefinding etc. But what if they are way in over their heads, and I don't know it because I don't know them as a person or their past experience. Now days I want to spend a day cragging or just get to know someone as a friend before getting into a big route together.
  4. Adams Climbing Permit?

    Haha...yea. What surprised me was that you had to buy an online climbing permit in the first place. Is that new this year? Granted it has been a couple years since I have been up there but I only remember having to fill out a free wilderness permit.
  5. Adams Climbing Permit?

    So according to the USFS, climbing Mt. Adams is currently closed due to COVID, and they say permits will be available from Recreation.gov once the trailhead re-opens. https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/giffordpinchot/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb5435984
  6. Home climbing walls and training setups

    If you have an attic the rafters work well. I just screwed in long lag screws but left the head out about 1". Then I slot the hole in the ice tool head over the screw head. Doesn't help your technique but it sure works out the arms! I have been doing 90 sec circuits followed by 4.5min rest (repeat 6 times for about a 30 min power endurance workout) I tried to upload a 5 sec video clip but it just puts it as a file you have to download (IMG_2251.mp4). But below is a screen shot from the video.
  7. question New winter boot recommendations

    Just FYI the Scarpa Phantom Tech was updated last year (2019). The new version supposedly fixes the durability issues with the sole and zipper. Obviously I don't think it has been out long enough for anyone to truly know but might be worth looking into what exactly got changed. Personally I have the old version of the Tech and really like it. It is lighter, more waterproof, and I think warmer than my Nepals. I have also worn the Scarpa 6000 a bit. It is definitely a heavier and warmer version of the Tech. But it doesn't walk as nice nor do I feel very nimble to like scramble rock on an approach. I have multiple climbing partners with the Sportiva G5. They all love the boots and say they are very warm. One of the nice things is the BOA system.....quick and easy adjustment. One of my buddies loves it because he can loosen his boots at belays on a long multipitch climb.
  8. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Interesting.....I bet that if it had made the list it would be climbed a LOT more!
  9. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    I rigged up an old phone cord for my nut tool tether. It allows a long reach but retracts so it doesn't get in the way. I can't claim it as original as I got it from John Godino's website. He has quite a list of cool DIY mods. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/diy-gear-making-and-modification
  10. [TR] Cabinet Mountains - Multiple 03/21/2020

    Porter, you should definitely plan a trip up there next winter! Thanks Jason, yes all the photos posted are mine.
  11. Trip: Cabinet Mountains - Multiple Trip Date: 03/21/2020 Trip Report: I just wanted to share some photos and descriptions from the last couple ice seasons in the Cabinet Mountains. Anyone who got the 2019 AAJ or Alpinist 64 might have already seen pictures of the area. There have been a handful of Spokane area climbers putting up routes over the last couple seasons. All the climbing has been done out of Granite Lake which is near Libby, MT in the Cabinet Mountains. The climbing is quite varied, from single pitch WI3 to 1000ft hard ice and mixed routes. The area has been divided up into 3 big areas….A Peak, The Thunderdome, and Three Tiers. A picture is worth a thousand words so I will just resort to numerous pictures instead of more text……let the stoke begin for next season!! Looking across Granite Lake with A Peak towering 4000 feet above. The Thunderdome is the large sub dome in the center of the picture. The Thunderdome!! Some of the best ice routes anywhere around. Scott Coldiron and Matt Cornell on the first ascent of Mad Max, WI5+ (8 pitches). Nate Kenney climbing a steep skinny pillar called War Boys, WI5+. Scott Coldiron climbing a crazy pitch called Underworld, WI3. This route is 20m long and entirely inside an ice cave 500 feet up the Thunderdome! Another view of the spectacular A Peak and the upper wall of the Thunderdome. The big ice in the center of the wall is Road Warrior, WI5, M5 (8 pitches). Looking up the huge gash on A Peak. Scott Coldiron and Jess Roskelley put up the route Canmore Wedding Party AI5, M7, 750m, which ascends this central gash. The climb got nominated for a Piolet d'Or in 2019. Note: the large sheet of ice on the bottom rock band is still unclimbed as of 2020. Looking up the wide start to the "Blaster Routes". Blaster, WI4 is five pitches of ice while Master Blaster WI4, M5, (10 pitches) continues to the top of the Thunderdome. Looking up from the lake at the "Three Tiers". These cliffs have about 20-25 ice and mixed routes that have been done. A closer view of the the ice (during a fat season) on the center of the 2nd Tier with the 3rd Tier above. Scott Coldiron on the first ascent of Toast, WI5 on the 2nd Tier. Zach Turner leading The Dag, WI3 on the 2nd Tier......a super fun mellow corner. A shot of some of the 3rd Tier routes. Gyro Captain, WI4, goes up the ice on the right while Pig Killer, WI3, takes a line up some of the ice on the left. Multiple possibilities exist for mixed routes connecting the lower ice flows in the center up through the rock to the hanging ice above. Zach Tuner rappelling off Max's Bloodline, WI4, with the impressive routes on Thunderdome in the background. Jonathan Klaucke climbing funky ice on Cheedo, WI3-4, on the 2nd Tier. Looking across at the right hand end of the Three Tiers from the Thunderdome. The wide flow in the center is the start of Tomorrow Land, WI3+, 3 pitches, while the ice up on the right is Devil's Brownies, WI4, 2 pitches, and then farther right is Scales of Justice, WI4/5. Zach Tuner on the skinny pillar start to Splendid Angharad, WI5. The flow farther left is called Capable, WI4. Looking up the 2nd pitch of Tomorrow Land, WI3+ on the first ascent. This fat climb called Nightrider, WI4, 3 pitches, is on the far left of the Thunderdome. It is a bit longer of a hike from the lake but the route is a stellar moderate! Scott Coldiron climbing the crux 2nd pitch of Nightrider, WI4. Brian White starting up the classic Toast, WI5 on the 2nd Tier. The ice beyond him is the route Cheedo, WI3-4. Zack Turner on the sharp end during the first ascent of Grease Rat, WI4....a really fun route on the 3rd Tier. Matt Cornell working through the crux of Sarcophagus of Lies, M6. The route continues up and left until you can stem between the rock and the ice dagger above. This is a stellar line on the 3rd Tier with "quality climbing as good as Come and Get It" according to Matt. Brian White putting up a short route called Mystery Gas, WI3 on the 3rd Tier. Syd Atencio and Nate Kenney climbing up Devil's Brownies, WI4, on the Three Tiers. Granite Lake and the surrounding basin in the background. I think one of my favorite things about the climbing here is the views....it just never gets old!! Every time I walk across Granite Lake I have to pause and just look up. Hopefully this will get some people stoked about climbing up there because it is a beautiful spot with fantastic climbing. Happy to answer any beta questions or run them through Scott. Gear Notes: Ice screws......rock gear for mixed routes. Approach Notes: All climbs are best accessed from the Granite Lake trailhead. In winter it is a 9 mile hike/skin into the lake with about 2000 ft of elevation gain. Count on 4-9 hours depending on conditions. From downtown Libby, take Highway 2 east one mile to Shaugnessy road. Take a right and follow this for .7 miles before turning left onto Snowshoe road. After 1/2 mile take a right turn onto Granite Lake road. In .8 miles stay left on Granite Lake road and continue for 4 miles. This is the end of the pavement and where the snowplows stop in the winter. The Granite Lake trailhead is still another 3 miles but you will have to walk/skin/snowmobile that distance in the winter. There is usually plenty of room to park several cars just be mindful not to block the road or any of the neighbor’s driveways. From here follow the snow covered road for 3 miles to the actual Granite Lake trailhead. The road is mostly level with a few gradual climbs (400 feet of elevation gain in 3 miles). From the trailhead hike/skin the trail 6 miles up to the lake.
  12. I finally took the time to sit down and read your report and watch the videos. Wow, what a fantastic climb!! It is so cool that you were able to get such great footage. And that natural ice tunnel....looks like one of the most memorable pitches ever! Thanks for sharing and congrats on the climb.
  13. Easy way for you to win 2 free Ice Screws

    Wait the way I read it the photo contest ended on March 2 at 10am. That was before you even posted this...... "Here's all of the "People's Choice" finalists in the Verti Call Photo Contest! The photo with the most amount of "likes" by Mar 2nd @ 10am EST wins the People's Choice! Prize is two Grandwall ice screws from Verti Call. Good luck!"
  14. wanted to buy Anyone selling: mountain hardwear direkt 2

    I have seen 4 or 5 for sale in the last year. You just have to keep your eyes open.....Mountain Project, Craiglist and Facebook Marketplace. Good luck...they are worth the effort to get one!
  15. idea Playing Cards For Cimbing

    Really cool idea. The joker replacement is awesome! The piton is definitely my favorite suit. I am definitely going to order up a set!
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