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mthorman

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mthorman last won the day on March 29

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About mthorman

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    enthusiast
  • Birthday 04/30/1987

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    Firefighter
  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  1. Ptarmigan Traverse Questions?

    I went this summer with a group of friends. I would echo everyone else's advice. A couple things to add, we only took 1L of water each and just collected more along the hike each day. No need to carry more than a liter or melt snow. Also on footwear I would advise against a real mountaineering boot. Pretty much everybody took hiking boots. The only 2 people to take mountaineering boots both ended up with a lot of blisters. Finally a note on the Bachelor Creek trail. Despite what some people tell you there is actually a trail there. Yes it is overgrown and bushy but there is a trail. You do not have to bushwhack, and if you are then you are off the trail.
  2. Nice job, that is some amazing country!! We were just there last weekend as part of the Ptarmigan Traverse. I am curious to know where you started scrambling Formidable from the last snowfield in the just below the summit basin. We choose a gully feature on the far right (outlined in red below) and the climbing was good Class 2 or 3 all the way to the top with the exception of a loose section near the top. But we topped out on the ridge well east of the main summit. And the traverse along the crest looked loose and more like Class 4 or easy 5th to go along the ridge, down into a notch and then back up to the actual summit. We ended up calling it good on the summit ridge since it was late in the day already and we needed to get back down to Yang Yang Lakes for the night. Do you remember where you went up looking at the photo below?
  3. Ptarmigan Traverse - Very Late Season

    Just got back from the Ptarmigan Traverse yesterday. A couple notes....the route onto the Le Conte Glacier was already 35-40 degree ice for 30 feet. I am guessing that will be a lot more by October. But the good news is we didn't see or cross any sketchy snow bridges. Overall the glaciers were in great shape and very easy to navigate. Even the exposed ice I mentioned before was easy especially if you have any ice climbing experience. If I were wanting to go in October I would be watching the weather from now until then. That way you will know what to expect in terms of changing conditions. For instance if they get an early snow in September that could make the red ledges much more time consuming and harder. Cal Topo has a weekly high imagery satelite photo that is very useful in terms of seeing snow levels. It won't tell you whether it is covered by 2 inches or 2 feet but you could see a recent snow made everything white above say 6000 ft. Let me know if you have any other specific route questions or need any beta for the trip. It is amazing!!
  4. Great TR! We are heading out this week so it was nice to see some current photos of the route! Marlin
  5. for sale FISH single portaledge

    I sent you a PM.
  6. [TR] Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier 07/03/2020

    Cool trip and thanks for posting! I have always wanted to get around onto this side of the mountain.
  7. review Break Testing Climbing Cams

    Yea, it is a shame that they tapered the crack so far down. It doesn't look like any of those cams would have been able to be "placed" through the constriction they pulled them through. So basically you are testing it as a nut placement. I guess it is interesting to see what breaks first on the cams.....lobes, sling, or wire. But I would be more interested in the actual holding power of the cam on ideal placements. Like what was the dynamometer showing when the cams were slipping before they became overcammed in the constriction?
  8. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Great idea. I always learn so much by my own and other people's mistakes. 1. I used to girth hitch the little cord of my point and shoot camera into a sling so as to prevent from accidentally dropping it. Then one day about 5 pitches up on SEWS I looked down to see that I had clipped into that little camera cord as my tether at the anchor. Someone I grabbed the main sling but instead of clipping into the end of it I clipped into the carmera cord at the end. Needless to say I don't ever tether my camera by a sling anymore..... 2. I had a friend fall and die while climbing with a new partner on a long multipitch route. They were climbing above their ability but their new partner didn't realize it. At the time, I was climbing with a lot of new people on bigger routes as well. I realized that I could have easily been my friend's "new climbing partner" in that scenario. It is so hard to tell someone's actual level of experience from a hike up to a cliff/mountain. I had previously thought that as long as I was solid at whatever grade we were doing it didn't matter. But after a lot of reflection I decided that wasn't true. If I was climbing with someone of less ability they could want to "hold up their end of the partnership" by leading, routefinding etc. But what if they are way in over their heads, and I don't know it because I don't know them as a person or their past experience. Now days I want to spend a day cragging or just get to know someone as a friend before getting into a big route together.
  9. Adams Climbing Permit?

    Haha...yea. What surprised me was that you had to buy an online climbing permit in the first place. Is that new this year? Granted it has been a couple years since I have been up there but I only remember having to fill out a free wilderness permit.
  10. Adams Climbing Permit?

    So according to the USFS, climbing Mt. Adams is currently closed due to COVID, and they say permits will be available from Recreation.gov once the trailhead re-opens. https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/giffordpinchot/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb5435984
  11. Home climbing walls and training setups

    If you have an attic the rafters work well. I just screwed in long lag screws but left the head out about 1". Then I slot the hole in the ice tool head over the screw head. Doesn't help your technique but it sure works out the arms! I have been doing 90 sec circuits followed by 4.5min rest (repeat 6 times for about a 30 min power endurance workout) I tried to upload a 5 sec video clip but it just puts it as a file you have to download (IMG_2251.mp4). But below is a screen shot from the video.
  12. question New winter boot recommendations

    Just FYI the Scarpa Phantom Tech was updated last year (2019). The new version supposedly fixes the durability issues with the sole and zipper. Obviously I don't think it has been out long enough for anyone to truly know but might be worth looking into what exactly got changed. Personally I have the old version of the Tech and really like it. It is lighter, more waterproof, and I think warmer than my Nepals. I have also worn the Scarpa 6000 a bit. It is definitely a heavier and warmer version of the Tech. But it doesn't walk as nice nor do I feel very nimble to like scramble rock on an approach. I have multiple climbing partners with the Sportiva G5. They all love the boots and say they are very warm. One of the nice things is the BOA system.....quick and easy adjustment. One of my buddies loves it because he can loosen his boots at belays on a long multipitch climb.
  13. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Interesting.....I bet that if it had made the list it would be climbed a LOT more!
  14. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    I rigged up an old phone cord for my nut tool tether. It allows a long reach but retracts so it doesn't get in the way. I can't claim it as original as I got it from John Godino's website. He has quite a list of cool DIY mods. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/diy-gear-making-and-modification
  15. [TR] Cabinet Mountains - Multiple 03/21/2020

    Porter, you should definitely plan a trip up there next winter! Thanks Jason, yes all the photos posted are mine.
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