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mthorman last won the day on December 16 2022

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About mthorman

  • Birthday 04/30/1987


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    Spokane, WA

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  1. Nice! I haven't been as active as normal on Strava recently but great idea of getting a group going there.
  2. What a great trip report!! That looks like such a fun moderate climb too. Although I think I would take Tyler up on the boat transportation if I ever went. Nice job finishing it up and having all the necessary stuff to ensure a late night didn't turn into an epic. Can you comment a little more on the pitch count and individual difficulties? Mostly WI3 with a couple harder pitches....or easy first half steeper 2nd? Great job putting up a big line.......and some say that all ice is crowded and has been climbed.
  3. I was at Banks lake earlier this week (we climbed Peewees 3, 4, and 5). I didn't get out to Moses Coulee or south towards Park/Blue/Lenore Lakes so unknown out there. The weather is looking good for continued ice formation. There was snow on the ground and plenty of running water everywhere so just need time at freezing temperatures. Oh and the lake hasn't even started to freeze over really. Absent Professor - Trying but not much ice The Cable - top half is forming up nicely but needs a lot more to be "in". H2O2 - looked climbable although probably full value in its current shape Salt and Pepper - nothing More Banks Ice Climbs (MP 9) - several of these climbs are formed but with horrible or nonexistent top outs. The one exception is the longer WI4 "corner route" which is the right hand climb of the bunch. It looked good to go. Brush Climbs - Getting close Razorblades - no ice The Emerald - no ice MP 14 climbs - several climbs are trying but still need time, nothing really close Zenith - fully formed but the bottom connection point looks very thin and could be quick spicy. Another couple weeks and it should be great! Peewees - Most of them aren't really that good yet. The exception was #3 which we climbed and found really good quality and plenty of ice. We also climbed #4 and #5, both of which had quite a bit of thin shell and then ended in very desperate rock or grass pulling above where the ice ended but before any kind of tree/bush anchor. Trotsky's - Folly is in but looks sun affected. Revenge is in with some overhead hazard. Punchbowl - in but very nasty overhead hazard currently. Last Lap of the day on Peewees #3! Zenith current as of 12/12/2022.
  4. This is a bit ridiculous and very limiting. It is going to be pretty hard to try and get any kind of winter ascent of Rainier now.
  5. Haha...Adrien is missing more than just a foot. He is an above the knee amputee and climbs like a boss. I am not sure how he does it all because when he climbs, he "locks out" his knee in a straight position! Trying climbing ice, or rock or even aid when you can't bend your knee to step up. Sorry Adrien but I had to brag on you a bit bud!
  6. Heck yea dude!! That is probably my favorite route I have done on the Capitan. Congrats on the solo effort! Oh and nice to see you had a #6 for the Bismark pitch....I was a little mad at myself for only bringing a 5!!
  7. Sweet....it was the highest priority last summer but could never find a pysched partner. I will definitely be getting in there sometime though. Cool to see people putting stuff up in there!
  8. Nice job on finishing this up! It is cool to see new development going on in this area even if the routes are a bit above my current pay grade!
  9. Great writing! Nice to seem more development around the pass. This looks like a great addition!
  10. I think we would have liked to go up and left like you said there but it looked very blank in terms of protection. Maybe in retrospect we could have belayed pitch 2 short and then just runout the blank slabby terrain at an easy 5th class "R" rating and made it into the upper dihedral? The Arayete was pretty good. I really liked the first couple pitches because the rock quality was good. And if you have an eye for the weird pro and a nut tool I felt like the runouts weren't as bad as I was expecting. But above the 4th class pitch 5 the rock quality deteriorates. Pitch 7 in particular was bad. A foothold sheared off while leading and I somehow saved myself on my handhold. My partner also broke off a foothold on that pitch on TR and pulled off a flake handhold. The crux for me was the beginning of Pitch 7 climbing up the "overhangs" which are mostly loose flakes without any solid pro. I think Blake really hit the nail on the head when he called the route "a 5.8 climb for a 5.10 leader". Oh and we accessed from the right side ledge as going around to the left side of the toe looked pretty impossible (or at least very convoluted). The right side access was a very easy step to the rock and then a fun and short pitch of 5.7 to gain the arete at what looked like the beginning of pitch 1.
  11. Digging up an old thread...Sol, I can't draw a line on where the Labor Route is, but I can draw a line where it isn't! We climbed the Arayete this week and continued on to the top of Shuksan. We attempted to climb the Labor Day route but in retrospect I don't think it was. We began about 300ft north of the Hourglass feature as according to the CAG. It is the main dihedral and the only thing that made sense. The first pitch was a continue crack with a bit of laybacking at the top. However from there the corners above grew progressively more loose. Eventually we found ourselves climbing a resemblance of the Jenga game. Often pulling off rocks and chucking them out away from the wall so as not to accidentally kick them off. The climbing was slow, up to 5.9+/5.10a and very loose. Four pitches up my partner took a whip when his foothold broke, and we decided it wasn't worth continuing. So 2 pitches of traversing right and slightly up brought us to the ridge just above the hourglass and we scrambled down to the snow on the back side. So just wondering if anyone has any more info or has climbed the Labor Day route? The red line is what we did which I would NEVER recommend to anyone. We passed 2 old rappel anchors in the first 200ft and should have gotten a clue about what was to come.
  12. Love all the pictures!! Shuksan is a beautiful mountain.
  13. Amazing report and congrats on a great and successful trip!! I loved all reading all the details. It sounds about as chaotic and messy as I thought 8000m climbing would be, but you guys timed the crowds very well.
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